could you post link to the one you got ..
@lojack. man that was the plan but the noise is so freaking anoying . sound as a very bad lift . till t gets warm

Home - Kral Auto Parts

I used KAP169 for the rear driver bolt. There are others to choose from.

Best of luck!

If your manifolds are not yet cracked then you can just replace the bolts with these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they are cracked, like mine were, I used these studs and OBX headers. It's really not that difficult of a job. Once you remove the wheel well liners everything is fairly accessible.

For some of the bolt locations, it looks like that is the case. What about the rear-most bolt locations against the firewall? I have not removed the well liners on mine, but it looks like it would be impossible to get a drill in there (even with a 90) to use an easy out?

Did you have any broken bolts at the rear of motor by the firewall? If so, how were you able to extract?

The rear bolts are not right up against the firewall, if there is anything to grab you can use vise grips or something better. Both of my rear bolts were broken with a little stub sticking out. I sprayed them all down with PB Blaster and used a stud extractor that bites as it backs it out. I used a Craftsman set, I think it was like $20. All of them came out with no problem and mine were quite rusty.

Good Luck!

The problem with mine is that the bolt is broken off inside the head, maybe like 1/4 inch in. (This is the rear driver side bolt) I wonder if there would be enough room to drill with the splash shield removed?

It will be difficult as you will not have enough room to stick a drill in there. I would try a 90 degree adapter, I think that would fit easily. Just soak it in PB Blaster for a few days before trying to get it out. I don't think you need to drill out the entire stud, just enough to get an easy out in there to back it out.

Good Luck!