PRIVATE For Sale / Trade Classifieds Sell/Trade your stuff for free! NO COMMERCIAL POSTS!

Help with rotor(s) replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #1  
Ken06H3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 183
From: Dallas, TX
Default Help with rotor(s) replacement

After spraying & waiting, hammering on the front/sides/back could not dislodge the front rotor. Looked in the manual for help and really nothing popped out. There are no retainers on the studs. Do I just keep hammering from the back?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

Last edited by Ken06H3; Oct 5, 2011 at 08:01 PM. Reason: Correction about retainers
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 06:50 PM
  #2  
Indyone's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 10
Default

I'm getting ready to change out my rotors this weekend. I'm hoping I don't run into the same problem. Did you remove the retainers on the studs?
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #3  
Kopfjaeger's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 9
From:
Default

You need a zip gun/air hammer ....whatever you want to call it. Use a flat faced bit and hammer around the face of the rotor...around the wheel studs. It will pop loose eventually from the vibration.....or continue beating the crap out of it with a hammer and ruin the rotor and possibly a hub bearing. Good luck!!
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:39 PM
  #4  
talusfan's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 459
From: Pacific NW
Default

Remove the retainers, Get a block of wood instead of beating the rotor to death and your eardrums as well. Mini sledge or an air hammer.
 
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 08:03 PM
  #5  
Ken06H3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 183
From: Dallas, TX
Default There are/were no retainers on the studs

There are/were no retainers on the studs when I took the wheel off. Sorry to have mis-stated this earlier.

Thanks for the help.
 
Old May 28, 2012 | 04:52 PM
  #6  
jtceme's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 20
From: Duluth, GA
Default

Pickup two 10mm X 1.25 bolts approximately and inch and a half in lenth, and there should be two tapped holes between the wheel studs they'll fit into. Tighten evenly, 1/4-1/2 turn at a time. They should come right off without any significant beating. Worked like a champ for me after trying the hammer-and-hardwood approach with no success.
 
Old May 28, 2012 | 11:10 PM
  #7  
Ken06H3's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 183
From: Dallas, TX
Default

Sorted every out and I was able to complete the brake work. NAPA's Ultra Premium Rotors & Pads - Nearly 9,000 miles since installation and the H3 stops really great. I would recommend this setup for your H3.
 
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #8  
lovemyhummer's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2
Default

I had same problem i used a sledge hammer i didnt have to go to the gym for a week
 
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 12:29 PM
  #9  
Widespread Hummer's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 568
From: The Mitten
Default

Originally Posted by jtceme
Pickup two 10mm X 1.25 bolts approximately and inch and a half in lenth, and there should be two tapped holes between the wheel studs they'll fit into. Tighten evenly, 1/4-1/2 turn at a time. They should come right off without any significant beating. Worked like a champ for me after trying the hammer-and-hardwood approach with no success.
If, for some reason, you can't use this prefered method, you can also thread your caliper bolts back into their holes with the caliper off, and apply pressure to the rotor in the same fashion.
 
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:01 PM
  #10  
NJTEX's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 749
Default

Centric metallic pads work great on the H3 and if you mess up your rotors, don't be afraid to use their's too.
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:37 AM.