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-   -   Heater not blowing (2007 H3) (https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/private-sale-trade-classifieds-10/heater-not-blowing-2007-h3-34477/)

lostsoul77 12-29-2014 09:31 AM

Heater not blowing (2007 H3)
 
My AC/Heat blower motor stopped working this morning (2007 H3); was working fine last nite. I haven't smelled any burnt plastic smell like others have described and hoping its only a fuse and not the pigtail problem that these are known to have.

From other posts that I've read, it seems you have to take apart the dash or is it only the removal of the glovebox and side panel? I'm going to check the fuse on my lunch break. When I turn the setting to 4, I hear a click and idle in the engine changes, Pressing the recirculation button, I hear the actuator door open and shut. It figures this happens right when we're about to get hit with a cold spell again. I do have an extended Chrysler Powertrain Care Plus warranty (bought it used with 50,000 miles from a Dodge dealership) which covers the AC/Heater blower motor after paying $100 deductible (got 9000mi left on the warranty)

Does anyone have a copy of the step-by-step instructions from the thread below (pictures are no longer available in the thread)

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...08/#post226434

rayfry08 12-29-2014 11:03 AM

If you look under the glove box to the right and up you can see the resistor and the wiring harness connected to it. Unplug the harness and then look for any burnt terminals. I just replaced the resistor and wiring harness for about $85.00. To replace the wiring harness it's easier to remove the glove box.

alpine001 12-29-2014 11:58 AM

This might shed some light, check it out!

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...ter-r-r-34255/

lostsoul77 12-29-2014 01:14 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by rayfry08 (Post 320954)
If you look under the glove box to the right and up you can see the resistor and the wiring harness connected to it. Unplug the harness and then look for any burnt terminals. I just replaced the resistor and wiring harness for about $85.00. To replace the wiring harness it's easier to remove the glove box.

Are you referring to this harness? I checked the fuse and it's good...harness looks good unless it's burnt on the inside (i'm guessing that's where the resistor is after I remove the 2 screws).

happythree 12-29-2014 04:11 PM

almost NEVER the resistor, always the connector. look close and diy, save a bundle. read about it here a hundred times. search.

lostsoul77 12-29-2014 07:34 PM

The resistor on mine looks toasted. Most of the metal connections are rusted. Couldn't pull the red connector out of the white plastic piece.

happythree 12-29-2014 08:27 PM

like i said,,,

lostsoul77 12-30-2014 08:22 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Well, upon driving to work today......the blower jumped back on! I felt like Tom Hanks in Castaway when he discovered how to make fire.... but this is frustrating.

I have an appointment scheduled with the dealership to look at it but I'm sure they'll say nothing is wrong since its suddenly working again. The harness looks good although I couldn't figure how to separate the thing, started hearing plastic cracking and stopped (I lifted the red tab, and also tried to remove the little white clip in order to separate it.) Mine looks very rusted like there is water getting in there.....see attached pics.

happythree 12-30-2014 09:11 AM

looks great.
its the main connector,you can fix if you search and read hundreds of same fixes. good luck

resistor metal looks rusty because it gets humidity in the air flo. no worry there.

just wiggle it free. thats the first thing the dealer will do to start emptying your wallet.

lostsoul77 12-30-2014 02:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Heat!!!!!


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