H3 thinks doors are open while driving...
 

So after getting the passenger side wheel hub replaced (just had the driver side go bad back in January) the truck decides to present me with another problem. on the DIC it displays "DOORS" and gives the annoying chime when coming to a stop as well as driving; dome and interior lights stay lit as well if I don't push the switch in to disable them (i keep them disabled anyway but thank goodness for that switch). I had the shop test everything and he swapped the drivers side switch with the passenger side switches and the problem still existed; he suggests that the BCM has went bad. Upon searching on here I've found others who had to do the same thing.

Is the BCM something that I can purchase and install myself? I called the dealer parts department and the lady wasnt sure. She said the part would run me ~350.00 along with ~90.00 labor.

If the BCM also controls the odemeter, then that explains why the mileage decreased itself prior to rolling over to 100k; also explains why the auto-start sometimes work and sometimes doesn't as well as my panic alarm randomly going off...I have an extended warranty which of course doesn't cover anything that has broken so far on this truck (Chrysler Powertrain Care Plus warranty from chryslerwarrantys.com) purchased this used at a Chrysler dealer 2yrs ago.

I just replaced my BCM. I ordered the BCM through rockauto.com, but it has to be programmed by the dealer through the truck. The BCM was $177+ shipping. the dealership charged me $192 for the programming. They told me it took 1.5 hrs of labor to do it.

It's just a door pin switch. I have had the "DOOR" message a few times. It is usually the door that is used most often (driver) or the rear door. The only way to know without a GM OBDII is to buy a new one and swap it out one at a time.

ACDelco new switch from Rockauto.com $5. Might want to get a spare or 2. They do go bad.
More Information for ACDELCO D6075A

Check ALL your door jamb switches before going any futher. It is usually my rear gate door that goes bad first. At one time or another they have all acted up. That could account for your panic alarm going off also. I saw some on Ebay the other day for $9.00. Don't spend hundreds on a $9.00 fix. As for the odometer rollback, I don't have an answer for that.

Spray the door jam switches with wd40.
I had an expedition once that had those go off. Due to dust etc they quit working properly. Might be the same on the H3

if you did have a bad sw and you swapped them,you still have a bad sw,huh? just in a different place.
follow the others advice, and also learn how to test them.
i'm thinking that if you open one door at a time and push that switch you will learn something. hint; they should all do the same thing.

oh,if they all work when you push manually,well it coulds be they are out of adjustment.
if the door doesnt push it far enough,there is your problem.

oh again,the connecting wires are also capable of going bad,or one of the many plugs/sockets in the system.

Open doors one at a time. Remove switch (I believe it's a T10 torx). Unplug harness from switch (tip: put a piece of tape on the harness to the door jamb so it doesn't go into the hole or you'll have a good time trying to fish it back out:eek:). This will simulate switch being in an 'open' condition which is what tells the BCM to turn off lights. Give a couple of minutes for delay to time out. If lights stay on, go to next switch and do the same thing. Continue through all 5 doors until you come to a switch where the lights go out. That is your bad switch (assuming the problem IS a bad switch). This way you can diagnose the problem without investing any money or waiting for delivery of a new switch.

Thanks for the advice. I will definetly try when I get off from work today. As for the door jams, I checked all of them for dirt, mud, salt etc...and all is clean. I also tried with one door open at a time, pressing the switch but the dome light remained on regardless. All doors shut flush. I'll try Broken Halo's suggestion and provide an update.

Just checked.....it's a T15 Torx screw.

Providing an update
 

I followed Broke Halo's suggestion and sure enough it was a bad switch on the rear drivers side door; replaced the switch which took a whole 2 minutes to do and all is well. Thanks again...