H3 Oil Change Process (w/ pics) - ** Updated**
 

Since so many people ask for pictures on the OTHER OIL CHANGE THREAD, I decided to take the time and shoot some pictures while I changed my oil this morning....(thank you to the OP Wendell for the inspiration)

TOOLS NEEDED:
13 MM socket for the oil drain plug
1/2 SAE socket for the skid plate bolts (6 total)
Torque Wrench for the oil drain plug (19ft lbs.)
Oil drain pan, oil filter removal tool & funnel
Shop light (very useful so you can see what your doing)
Shop rags (for any oil spillage)

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PARTS NEEDED:
Oil (6qts.)
Oil Filter

Use the oil and filter of your choice. I prefer Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30.

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I like to run my H3 for a bit before the oil change and let it cool for about an hour. Open your hood and remove your oil cap and pull your oil level dipstick out. I like to do this as a reminder that I have to put oil IN after I drain it and that I have to check the level as well. in addition, it helps to drain the oil faster.

First, crawl under the front the vehicle with your 1/2 SAE socket and locate the skid plate under the oil pan. Loosen the right bolt about 4 full rotations and then move over to the left bolt and completely remove it.

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Now, locate the rear bolts and loosen both about 4 full turns (I personally prefer to simply remove these all the way but it is not needed).

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You will be able to now slide the rear skid plate back and remove it from the vehicle to gain better access to the oil drain plug.

Locate and remove the two front skid plate bolts to gain access to the oil filter.

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Now you have better access to the oil drain plug and the oil filter. Using the 13MM socket, loosen the oil drain plug. Make sure you have your oil drain pan under the vehicle at this time. As you can see in the picture below, I use a small piece of cardboard to help divert the oil into the drain pan. It helps by keeping the oil splashing off the crossmember.

Once drained, inspect and if ok...install the oil drain plug and torque to 19ft lbs.

Loosen and remove the oil filter with your oil filter wrench. If your careful, this can also be done without making too much of a mess. There is a small "catch" under it to assist. Make sure you place your oil drain pan under it to catch any oil.


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TO BE CONTINUED.............

Now that you have the oil drained, the oil drain plug in and torqued, the oil filter removed and all spillage cleaned up....it is time to install the oil filter. Check to make sure the oil gasket didn't seperate from the oil filter and stick to the oil sending unit (99% of the time it comes off with the old filter but it is good practice to check).

I like to avoid a dry start to I fill up my new oil filter with the new oil about 3/4 of the way. Also, don't forget to coat the rubber gasket on your new filter with some oil to help it seal.

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Ok install the new filter and get it as tight as you can by hand, that is enough. After you have installed the new filter and you're sure the drain plug is back in, put in some fresh oil. My I5 takes 6qts of 5w-30 oil.


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Once filled, remove the funnel and put the oil fill cap back on. Remove the oil drain pan from under the vehicle and push it off to the side.

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Before putting the skid plates back on, start the vehicle up and make sure you don't have any leaks. Also, make sure your oil light is not on and/or goes off. If everything is ok, shut it off and install the skid plates in reverse order of removal.

Make sure the vehicle is level and check the oil dipstick to make sure you have enough oil.

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The oil mark should be at the "F" bar. If not, add as needed. It is always easier to add in small amounts rather than overfill and have to pull the oil drain plug again.


Don't forget to reset your Oil Change Life on the DIC.


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Remember to properly dispose of the old oil. All aumotive repair garages and stores take it for free.

This is just a general process/guide. I am sure others have their ways of doing it and/or better tips. If so, please add to this thread.

I have hosted these pictures on a public storage site so they should be around for a long time.

Hopefully, this thread helps others do their own oil changes......

You've got the skid plates backwards. The front plate, the aluminum splash guard, should be over the steel guard, not under it. That's why there are keyhole shaped holes on the aluminum guard.
Anything scraping along the aluminum guard may get hung up on your steel guard the way you have it.

Thanks Bunger!! That was how it was when I bought it so I put it back that way each time! Thanks for the heads-up!!!

Updated the pic of the skid plate. Thanks again for bringing that to my attention Bunger!

Excellent write up, wish I would of seen this when I first did oil change. Trying to locate oil filter the first time was fun, when I remove the shields,I still could not find till I moved the rubber shield.:cool: