H3 -2007 problem started with door locks and then things really got screwy! Any help?
 

2007 -H3, took to dealer because check engine light. Code was Secondary Air Induction Motor. Dealer found corroded wire terminal, repaired it for $133.00. Got it home and realized doors would not lock, driver window wouldn't operate. Did a lot of checking, no luck. Engine light back on, had code read at Advance Auto Parts . . . . problem secondary air induction relay, so I bought a GM relay went home, installed it and at the same time rechecked all fuses for the door lock and window problem. At this point I decided to clean the throttle body because I had experienced the rough idle when braking. (read a thread on the forum) did that. Now, get in H3, insert key in ignition, turn key to start and . . . . nothing? Now I have another problem something in the ignition (I am assuming anti-theft) won't allow me to remove the key????? When I try to start it I can hear a click but nothing happens.
CAN ANYONE OFFER SOME TIPS!

Yeah,get one thing fixed at one time. If you mess with 6 different areas,you will never know what affected what. Stop messing and try to go backwards restoring any changes you can.
Get real professional help or advice.
Dont start a new project till the last one works for a week!
No,I would not do an oil change and tranny fluids this weekend,or change tires.

Start with the wimpy OEM battery cable terminals. You may have a loose ground. Also check where the ground to chassis bolt is.
If you don't have the right stuff go to an alternator/starter shop and have good quality terminals swedged on. Don't use the "emergency" bolt on terminals.
I personally don't like "stereo shop" add on terminals with piercing connectors. Some people seem to have found some they like.
A good physical mechanical connection means a good electrical connection.
The terminal on the left is a swedged one. After swedging the shrink wrap is pushed on and heated to make a clean sealed connection. The one on the right is a cheap clamp on.
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