H2 Stereo Install help
So I finally got my parts for my stereo and I was wondering if anyone knows a way to make it easier than the splice and solder.
I am looking to literally remove everything from the H2 and then put in new components. But I understand that I could get away with keeping the wiring harness to send signals to the amps. So I would like to know if there is a really good harness adapter for my Pioneer that will allow me to use the stock wiring harness and also possibly maintain the steering wheel controls. Thanks |
Steering wheel controls you just get an adapter for that. I think the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 is probably the most popular for that.
Standard harness plug adapter are not going to work properly if you are planning on removing and/or bypassing the stock amplifier under the console. The standard adapters also provide for the chime system to still work as that is part of the factory head unit and uses the factory amplifier to make the chime sounds through the front speakers. The same is true for the Onstar system functionality. So if you want to retain either of those I'm not sure what would be involved if you are planning to either remove or not use the factory amplifier. I think if you are bypassing or removing the stock amp than you will be facing a lot of cutting and soldering (preferred over butt splice crimp connectors) no matter what you do. Crimp connectors can be good and are fine though IF you get quality connectors and they are properly crimped. Auto part store brand and other cheap no-name crimp connectors are generally weak garbage. Good quality 3M ones do cost a good bit more but the metal where it actually crimps is far stronger. I've seen plenty of auto part store ones that the internal metal ring is so weak that you can literally just pull the wire right back out without much force at all after crimping them. Avoid any sort of vampire style connectors like scotch-locks. Those severely damage the wires they are tying in to and cause a major reduction in current carrying capacity of the wires and if subject to much movement will literally break the wires. Quality electrical work that will last and not have any problems required proper soldering and/or crimping with quality connectors and crimpers. |
Wheels button adapter as mixman said
in my case I removed the oem amp , cut wiring after identification and solder the new system It is easier to keep the oem wiring going to speakes but then you need to bring all the wirirng from aftermarket amp to the center console where is soldered. my aftermarket amp was installed under the rear seat in other words Rca from HU to amp .... new wiring from amp to the oem amp location to be soldered to the existing speaker wires make sure to run a positive from battery with an inline fuse and right wire gage, if possible a ground is also a good idea careful when running the wire thru the firewall grommet. Under not circumstances drill thru the rubber grommet. also make sure to run everything you may need in a future such as sub , backup camera , hdmi , etc you want to remove the center console.and hu the less possible btw what did you choose at the end ... Hu, amp ? |
Pioneer i went with this and i also included the rear seat entertainment connection and steering wheel package:
iDatalink - Maestro - Search My installation is here: https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-heavy-37399/ |
Originally Posted by Baldfox
(Post 357519)
Pioneer i went with this and i also included the rear seat entertainment connection and steering wheel package:
iDatalink - Maestro - Search My installation is here: https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-heavy-37399/ but the I guess Idatalink only works in newer years 08/09 |
Correct. It is not of any use on the 03-07 models. Same with the GM trucks. They could make it for the older vehicles but they do not think there is enough of a market.
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