Change brake pads myself?
 

My H3 is due fro some pads in the front - my wear sensors are squealing. I bought some pads from Autozone but it was just the pads. I saw somewhere there was a list of things that comes with the GM pads. I've changed pads before on my car but never on a truck. Should I just take it to the dealership who wants $240 per axle or can I do this myself. Any online tutorials would be helpful. TIA.

Matt

RE: Change brake pads myself?
 

Unless it's Winter here in NJ, I always do disc brake maintenance myself because it's easy and the cost savings are so great (I enjoy doing it too!). While I have no specific hints for theH3 because ours is still on it's original pads, you may be better off returning the Autozone pads and going with an OEM or premium set of pads and a new set of rotors. (That way you can do the whole job non-stop in about 1 1/2 hours and have your take-off rotors resurfaced and ready to go for the next brake job).

For OEM and OEM premium pads and rotors at a favorable price, look for an AC Delco partsstore in your area or go internet. For good aftermarket alternatives, TireRack now has H3 brake parts that look very nice. In any event, use OEM or better parts for long service life.

Good Luck!

RE: Change brake pads myself?
 

I checked Autozone once, and they had the ceramic pads for about $40 a wheel. Those are way better then OEM. I don't know if they are too hard to replace, but I sure as hell wouldn't pay the dealership 240 for non ceramic.

RE: Change brake pads myself?
 

Just in case anyone else asks this question, changing the pads on the front was a snap. The rears look fine so I did not touch them but I imagine the process is the same. In other cars, I've had to remove the caliper to replace the pads but the hummer allows you to drop the pads in from the rear once the pins are removed and the pistons compressed. It took about 30 minutes a side and I was in no hurry. If you have a jack, a c-clamp to compress the pistons, and a screwdriver I would say go for it. Three tips- Compress the pistons with a clamp with THE OLD PADS IN PLACE. They will give you a nice flat area to use between the piston and the clamp while compressing. 2.Use the screwdriver as a spacer between the pad and rotor to keep the opposite pistons from moving when compressing the other side. If you do not do this, the pressure will negate the work you have already done by "closing" the gap between the piston and the rotor. (ie. if you have already compressed the pistons closest to you, put the screwdriver in between the pad and rotor to maintain that space when compressing the far side. Otherwise, the action of compressing the far side will push the pistons you have already compressed back towards the rotor on the side closest to you. 3. Pay attention to the placement of the metal clip BEFORE removing it. It fits on the INSIDE of the pads. This is the only way it will flip up and into position when you are done.

Hope this helps someone as I didn't find much when I was looking.

Matt

RE: Change brake pads myself?
 

Thanks for posting this Matt.

Does anyone know the process for removing the rotor? Is it just sitting on the hub?

RE: Change brake pads myself?
 

I also checked Autozone and can't find the Ceramic Pads
Would you give me the part number
I have a 2007 H3
Thanks

RE: Change brake pads myself?
 

they make a tool that is easier to use than a c-clamp... for about the price of a c-clamp.

I appreciate the info. I just got done replacing the front pads. I first I thought I'd have to remove the calipers but it looked like the pads could be removed with the calipers in place. I searched and found your post, thanks!

I'd like to add something that may help others. After I removed the pads, I didn't use a clamp at all, I just loosened up the bleeder valve with a 10mm wrench. I took a flat piece of metal(a screwdriver would work) and pryed the calipers apart as the fluid squirted out. After doing all 4 the pads slid right in and after assembly I bled the brakes, brake pedal is now firmer than before.

It took me about 1 1/2hrs to do the job and that's counting searching the web and rotating the tires(with impact wrench). Now that I know how its done it will take no time.

Thanks again!

I literally just finished up changing the front pads on my wifes H3 utilizing "Hummerguy"s write up from this site. Excellent how to by the way. I got the duralast gold pads from autozone.

I did the fronts about 2 months ago, needed to hammer on one of the rotors a bit to get it to break free but overall it's a piece of cake. Maybe 45 minutes total in my driveway on a nice day. I went with new GM pads and rotors from the wholesaler that used to sponser this site.

I bought the gold duralast pads, as well. The local hummer dealership wanted $161 for a set! Crazy, autozone cost me $37. Rotors looked good, why change?

One other thing is that there is a a tab on one of the pads for each side, the pads will only fit one way.

I'll look for the write-up by Hummerguy. Thanks again... I'm sure I'll be back from time to time as I expect to own this H3 for awhile. :)

How do i change the rear brakes? I cant get the rotor off the e-brake.

brakes who needs um use the fred flintstone method

Just got done replacing my front brake pads today. Purchased mine at Autozone for $29. Both sides took about 40 minutes, and that's with using the scissor jack. There is a post here with pictures. I googled "2006 hummer h3 change front brake pads". It is extremely easy and I would not pay someone to this. I did replace the clips that hold in the pins with regular cotter pins.

what kind of mileage are you guys getting out of your brakes? I'm at about 22,000 and I hear a slight rumbling noise when I come to a slow stop...no squelling or brake light...what made you check your brakes?

thanks,
Chris

I just picked up AutoZone Gold brand front and rear pads. After reading the tutorial for the front brakes here on this forum courtesy of Hummerguy, I was able to complete the project in a few hours with no problems. The only thing I was debating was on whether or not to replace the rotors. The rotors looked smooth and in good condition so I left them as is. I plan on replacing them next time. I would recommend anyone who has time and doesn't mind working on their H3 to do your brakes yourself! I actually had fun doing it!

The rears were just as simple. Just like what you would do on any sedan.

1. Use a C clamp to release the pressure on the pads

2. Take off both caliper bolts

3. R & R brake pads. I would also recommend using brake lube. They sell it in small packets at the checkout counter at Autozone. This will help eliminate any brake noise.

Well, I hope Chris checked his pads after posting. Your warning light for brakes is not there to tell you it's time to change your pads, fyi. I'm at just over 19,000 on my '09 H3T (Ride my Triumph most any time there's no ice on the roads!) and was thinking I should take a look to see how much of my pads are left when what do you know, I hear the same thing Chris heard. A verrrry weak rumble just the last 3 to 5 feet of a slow stop. I'll have a look see when I get back from work. Glad to see a posting here and I'll check out Hummerguy's thread as well. Fore warned is fore armed. I last had an '03 Saab Vector. That little bastage had a 'rotating' rear caliper that had to be turned as it's pistons were re-seated. Just making sure I didn't have any surprises waiting for me.

Cheers.

OEM works for me.
 

I changed the left front hub assembly today on my 2004 H2. The brake pads are only 1/2 worn but are starting to have separation cracks in them. After lasting 6+ years and 136k miles I wouldn't buy anything but the OEM brakes. The rotors have no gouges and show minimal wear.

My dad did this to my H3 about 3 months ago... Actually picked up the pair at O'Reillys. Ceramic, lifetime warranty.. for the pair about 45 bucks!! DON:T have the dealership do it... they wanted yep, about 250 as well. My dad laughed! Taking the tires off took the longest. Dad said easiest brake job he had ever done, and he's 72!:). ( He use to be a mechanic for Volkswagon, Porshe) Only had to do the front. He said my rotors looked just fine so we didn't have those resurfaced. DO IT YOURSELF!:) INFOFX gave you some fantastic details... GOOD LUCK!

I had to take my H3 in for a leak from my front Axle... said I needed new brakes soon.. That's how I knew to check them. So my dad checked them and yep, they were needed brakes soon, so we changed them before the cold weather set in. I had about 55000 mi. on them.

2004 h2 doesn't stop

Instead of posting on a thread that is 3 years old just start a new one. What do you mean it doesn't stop? Can you elaborate? That might help.

...and getting your post in the right Hummer model forum might help as well;).....

Hello, I have H2 2004 Hummer when breaks it slide and then stop and then sometimes it doesn't stop at all. I almost ran in to peoples and instead I turn and hit a small pole, and it stop. Just change all brakes pad's, did not do the problem. I just bought a master cylinder, would that do the problem. After changing pads I try stopping and it slide through until it come to a full stop almost hitting my sister's car. Please help!!!!

I just got my rotors and pads today, paid $700 for the job. Ive done it myself on a Nissan maxima and just didn't want to deal with it this time. Can you believe 67,000 miles on the original rotors? They were totally shot and falling apart, part of the reason I paid because I don't have air tools and know the bolts would have been terrible to turn. It was doing that lurching thing when you apply the brakes, now you don't even know ur hitting the brake, it just smoothly stops. Best $700 spent in awhile.

SILINI, we have already responded to you. You are posting in the wrong section of the website. This section is for H3's. Go to the H2 section and post your question.

Silini it sounds like your out of brake fluid or its really low. Maybe you have a leak in the brake system somewhere .

silin, although in the wrong forum, some things to check would be bleed the brakes, could have air in the lines that compresses causing the bakes to e weak. check that you do not have a bake hose failing, when you changed pads did you let the caliper hang by the hose or get it twisted when reattaching it? both could cause hose failure, the hose should have absolutely no twist in it. did someone put in the wrong brake fluid at some point? are you running big rims? As we all know most people with h2's put 24"+ wheels on them, those plus tires can be A LOT of weight for the stock brake system.

first thing I'd do is take off the wheels and check out the hose for any signs of damage, leaks, or a weak part bloating out under pressure and make sure they're not twisted.

Then I'd flush out the entire brake fluid system, if you don't know how do a little research on bleeding brakes and not only bleed the brakes but do it repeatedly to get ALL of the old fluid out of he system and replaced with new and the correct DOT brake fluid.

clearly,time to drop it off at a real,honest to goodness authenic brake shop.
you are guessing,getting guesses,and throwing money at it.
that's what govt does and the results are, throw more money at it.

Thank You for all your help and comments. My H2 work now after changing the pads and bleed, it did not work. I change the master cylinder and bleed all 4 wheels again, still did not do the job. Next thing I change the Brake Hydro Boost then bleed all four wheels again, and it work. My brake feels so great and brake like a new car. After changing the master cylinder the brake was so sponge and it was not good, and unsafe to be out on the road. So Hydro Boost did the job. Thank You so much for all the info I receive here. I am sorry for being in the wrong H3 Forum. I did not realize that. Much love to you all. thanks again:-) Silini

My break fluid was fine and there was no leak any where my h2 park in any time. thanks again.