Yes Thay Are.....GM dose not include the connectors with the switches. Remember to order both. Also when I wired my lights
I used the KC wiring harness. The harness has a relay in it. This means only a little amount of juice runs through the switch. Just
enough to trip the relay. The relay takes all the electricity. I think I would melt them if I put 260 watts through them.

 

This works and got them at pep boys for 4.99 a peice works great and looks great.someone posted this photo before but i have the same switches

[IMG]local://upfiles/386/42577288B0D942AD9AE746E2E5D81139.jpg[/IMG]

 

I have To admitt thay look great and a better price

 

Looks SHARP

 

Yes , very nice craftsmanship...Looks factory.

 

I agree, looks good

 

Yes, they do look good and the price is excellent. My next question is, how do you remove the faceplate?

 

stick your finger in the cigarette sockets and GENTLY up and pullout. It is held in place with bayonett clips.....

 

Thank-you for the help in removing the face plate.

 

I hate to drag up the past, but I had remebered reading this thread some time ago and have since added a set of PIAA lights to my bull bar. You gotta love the search function on this forum. Anyhow, I bought the GM aux. light switch from the dealer but it came without any documentation. When I called the parts dept. they were of no help. What I need to know from any of you guys that used this OEM switch on aftermarket lights is which pigtail post is the +12v, load, and ground. The pigtail is marked A,B,C at the switch connector. I put a multi-meter across it and thought I had it figured out, but when I plugged it up it was a no-go. I know that the lights are wired correctly because I can plug the PIAA switch into the harness and the lights function. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
Greg