I'm a little skeptical of loose wiring just because ive done the wiggle test a hundred times and most of the wiring was replaced by the dealer.....however i won't put anything past this truck anymore, i'm just hoping the jarring movement from the hood slam affected the loose spring on my throttle pedal.

Anywho the new pedal will arrive today and ill report back with my findings.

Thanks for all your help.

I tested the new GM pedal sensor side by side with the oreilly's replacement that was currently on the vehicle......the new GM sensor ohm values were almost exactly inline with the guys testing procedure: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....sensor-tests-1

And the oreillys sensor was out of range by around 800 ohms on the min and max pedal position.
Sooooo my next question is: does the computer adjust for the difference in sensor? i would assume so but why would the cheap sensor have such different values if it "matches or exceeds oem standard"??

I still need a new battery does anyone have a suggestion on what to get? i was just going to the dealer for one.

Lots of the part store electronics are cheap Chinese copies of the real thing and we all know how much care and effort the chinese put into products that come over here.
I would always try and buy OEM parts for your H2.

AC Delco batteries are good, Optima, East Penn AGM and Interstate are also great choices.

I finished installing all the parts today....it was just the throttle pedal w/sensor & battery until i decided to just update a couple other maintenance items....so i decided to update the alternator (my last battery was only 3 years old) and both drive belts with tensioner. And last but not least i went ahead and picked up a new OEM throttle body with sensor after talking with my neighbor (who is a mechanic) about all his troubles when he skips getting OEM parts, i was sold.
So all installed and Harry the Hummer is running good today without any rpm bouncing at all.
I will update again in a week hopefully with good news.

UPDATE!!

I have about 70 miles driven since all the parts have been replaced and still no check engine light! thats great....however, the rpm's are still bouncing at approximately 50 mph and 1500 rpm. This damn truck is going to be the death of me.

My mechanic neighbor happens to have a Snap On Solus Pro tool so i plugged that bad boy in and drove around until the rpms started to bounce and the only thing i was able to verify is that its not shifting when this is happening.....feels more like a slipping and not sure if it could be the torque converter of transmission. My neighbor says if the torque converter is slipping it would throw a code.....and yet i have none.
any thoughts anyone?? i still have the Solus pro to use but not exactly sure the best way to use it for my situation.
Suggestions?

At 50mph and cruising that's about when your gonna see torque converter lockup. It may be going in and out of lockup. Monitor tcc slip speed on scanner.

If slip speed goes up and engine rpm goes up, then slip speed goes to near zero with engine rpm going down could indicate a busy tcc solenoid.

So i captured some PID data from the Solus and ill post a few and you can clearly see at the 28 mark on the timeline is when the surging happens. it was captured while driving steady at 53 mph.

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It would appear you have bad connections at transmission connector to me. Odd spikes in data readings especially on trans fluid temp readings. If someone has been doing diagnosis on this and used improper test pins in connectors I would suspect pin grip connectors are expanded and not making good contact(hot dog down the hallway) Or connections at module same thing.

You could try dielectric grease in transmission connector and see if that helps. It may or may not.