06 H3 electrical trouble
 

I have an 06 H3 that has an electrical problem. I am hoping for some diagnosing help. About two weeks ago it was hard to start in the morning (made click,click,click, sound) like battery was dead but it started. The drivers window would not roll down and the doorlocks did not work. I disconnected the battery and hooked up and everything worked again. But it has gotten worse I have to jump it every morning. The battery reads good under a load test. I put a test light in line on the negative side and it lights up when nothing is in use. So there is a draw coming from someplace? With the light in place I removed each fuse 1 by 1 and the light stayed on with all of them. Any ideas or where I should go next?
Thanks

two suggestions:

one would be since its an 06 would be to check the battery terminals... are they loose? They sucked @$$ and the were changed a little in 07... Mine were loose and gave me quite the headache until I did a dual battery install...

the second would be the BCM... it controls everything body related and if its not working properly than the interior stuff would be affected... but the battery and interior stuff should not be the same bug... follow me?

F.Y.I. There is always a draw, even when nothing is in use. Examples: radio clock, station memory, security mode, BCM & PCM memory etc. Removing and replacing one fuse at a time won't help you isolate draw if/when there is more then one draw. If two items were drawing current, and you pulled and replaced one fuse at a time, you'll never find it. The only way fuse pulling would work would be to pull all the fuses :eek:, and replace one at a time until your test light turned on. But, as I said, you always have a draw anyway.:(

Have had the same issues. My 06 has the 6 disc monsoon stereo W/ amp.
After doing some research it seems the amp does not always turn off. Pull # 38 fuse with the ignition off, if it sparks when you put it back in its probally the source.

The parasitic draw is rated in MILLIAMPS. You need an accurate amp meter to install to see exactly what the draw is. And do it after twenty minutes to allow all the computers to go into sleep mode. If it is around 55-75 milliamps (all depends on what you have installed from the factory or aftermarket) it is pretty darn normal. If it is showing AMPS, there is a problem, and pulling fuses one at a time is a fantastic way to find the bad circuit. But again, you need an accurate amp meter to put inline to find the exact draw.

Example, you have a 2 amp draw and you pull a fuse and it drops to 55 milliamps, you have found the circuit.


WARNING: I KEEP FORGETTING MOST PEOPLE DON'T HAVE A HIGH AMP METER LIKE I DO. MOST AMP METERS IN COMMON MULTIMETERS CAN ONLY TAKE ONE TO TWO AMPS BEFORE BLOWING THE METER'S FUSE. So, you can also use a 1 ohm resistor. Connect the resistor in line and place a voltmeter across the resistor. Divide the voltage reading by the resistor to obtain the amps.

Test lights are NOT accurate for checking draw from a battery. Brightness of a light is subjective, an amp meter is not.




As Dagkana states, the battery terminals from the plant are terrible. Replace them. Even if they are not the problem, they probably will be someday. However, there are a lot of circuits on the H3 that are not directly controlled by the BCM. Example, the B+ to the radio is direct from a fuse 10 (fuse 38 to the amp). The BCM has no control over this circuit. And, there are quite a few circuits that are direct from the battery with no control, other than the fuse.

Also, some auto part stores have some high tech circuit testers such as VAT machines or ARBS Testers. They can let you know if there is a problem. Unless it is in the actual charging or starting circuit, they can't determine exactly where the drain is coming from. That's where the amp meter comes into play.

After 18 years in GM service engineering, with a EE degree, the amp meter, with pulling fuses works great.

I hate electricity, good luck

got my curiosity
 

left hood unlocked overnite, hooked amp meter
at first it read 2.5 a for 1 min. i guess the comps woke up,found nuttin to do, went back to bed,current dropped to .11 amp,110 milliamps.

key in door,no change unlok/lok door, no change.door still closed,remote unlok,doors unlok.
my meter fuse went!. its a dvm with 20 amp range but mite have 10 a fuse,didnt chek yet.

main point is .11 amp looks normal for stock h3.

now volts 12.08,no run

on startup,volts,14,8 for apx 1 min,then 15.3.
then lites/fan on,volts 14,8 breifly then up to 15 .3.

during crank i didnt see less than 12v,surprised,,,good batt!

didnt expect 15.3.max. in fords was 14.8,usual 13.8 i think.

Found my problem
 

Took the Hummer to a friend of mine that works for a audio store. Turns out someone had installed a AirIQ GPS tracking device in the past and it was the source of the battery drain. :cool:

go to the last place,,,
 

ive done handyman house repairs for 27 years. when theres a new problem i ask ,"whats the last work that was done"! thats usually where i find the trbl! ive made a living on other guys mistakes!

doorlocks and drivers window problem
 

hey there haycad1 im having the same problem. My battery went dead and all of a sudden the doorlocks wont function anymore and the drivers window wont go down but the other ones work fine. what should i do? were you able to fix yours?

i dont know anything about electrical stuff can anyone help me out here?
thanks