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Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
He meant BCM. A bad one or improperly connected (loose or corroded) BCM can cause about 100 or so electrical Gremlins. Wipers starting and stopping by themselves, headlights on or off, starting issues, dead battery................ all kinds of stuff.
Disconnect the BCM with the battery disconnected, clean the contacts with CRC, after dry, reconnect firmly. Trace the harness for wear, fraying, cracked insulation, corrosion etc.
I am planning on tracing the harness wires today after work. I did clean the plugs yesterday with CRC.
Only tested with a multimeter at 12.4v. Don't have a load tester. That is on the agenda to remove and get tested at Autozone if needed.
Should be good at 12.4V, but over the years I have seen a battery or two that show OK volts at rest, but have an internal short so once load is put on they are basically dead. Pretty rare, but it does happen on occasion.
Should be good at 12.4V, but over the years I have seen a battery or two that show OK volts at rest, but have an internal short so once load is put on they are basically dead. Pretty rare, but it does happen on occasion.
I'm getting ready to go check all the grounds and trace the wires from the BCM.
Should be good at 12.4V, but over the years I have seen a battery or two that show OK volts at rest, but have an internal short so once load is put on they are basically dead. Pretty rare, but it does happen on occasion.
Before I started my wire check I tried to start it. I heard a single click from the BCM each time I tried to start it.. I already had the kick panel removed on the passenger side so it made it easy to hear it. I did find one wire tapped for and alarm system that someone put in. It is now removed. I also cleaned the three grounds I found in the engine bay, one by the battery, one on each side above the fender well. The one ground on the driver side was completely loose not even finger tight bolt. I was told by a friend who is a certified mechanic there is a ground from the motor to the firewall and possibly the chassis. Is this true?
I searched the threads and found nothing. Need help figuring this one out. Yesterday the wife and I took off to go shopping. Two blocks from house came to a stop sign and the entire truck just shut off. I mean engine dies radio still on. Place in park, try to restart and nothing. Turning the key to run and check engine light is the only light lit on the dash. Turn to start, no response not even a clicking to indicate a weak battery. Turn off and on the ignition, still nothing. Pop the hood, checked the battery cables are good and tight (already replaced battery terminals). Everything is tight. Get back in, turned key back and forth a few times to try to start, nothing and the only light lit on the dash is the check engine. Kept fumbling with the ignition on and off. The stater clicked twice and stopped. This happened three times. Did that a few more times on and off and finally it started up. While it was off I did have dome lights and they did not dim when I tried to start to indicate a dead or weak battery. Even if there was a problem with the battery the alternator keeps the electrical energized so it should not just die when I stopped. I run the ScanGauge II and noticed the electrical was at 14.7 volts when I stopped before it died. Once it started the ScanGauge did show any codes. Where do I start? TIA.
Anybody see any mention of him installing a new stereo just before all this electrical stuff started??????
Anybody think that when somebody changes something in an otherwise properly operating vehicle and then suddenly stuff happens that there may be a relationship to that last change the owner made?
