Which replacement speakers to get?
#11
I'd like to keep the bass from the factory speakers. I have heard/experienced aftermarket speakers with almost no bass thus the need for a subwoofer arises so I want to avoid that. But if you know of any drop in aftermarket speakers that have as much punch/bass as the factory speakers, please let me know.
I mounted these 4 Pioneers after putting DynaMat in the doors, in and XTC foam baffle, and even though they were inexpensive ($26 each), they sound substantially better than the OEM crap.
Anybody have the frequency response of the factory door speakers for comparing to basic aftermarket speakers?
#12
GM did not put the OEM speakers in your H3 because the were the best bass & rock fest speakers out there, the are in your doors because they are cheap! Once the paper gets wet, they all toast eventually.
I mounted these 4 Pioneers after putting DynaMat in the doors, in and XTC foam baffle, and even though they were inexpensive ($26 each), they sound substantially better than the OEM crap.
Anybody have the frequency response of the factory door speakers for comparing to basic aftermarket speakers?
I mounted these 4 Pioneers after putting DynaMat in the doors, in and XTC foam baffle, and even though they were inexpensive ($26 each), they sound substantially better than the OEM crap.
Anybody have the frequency response of the factory door speakers for comparing to basic aftermarket speakers?
Do the Pioneers have as much punch/bass as the stock speakers? Thats really my main concern as I'm not an audiophile or anything I just like the bass.
I was just looking into sound dampening and I came across the DynaMat stuff.
So is it worth it?
I have the 33 inch bridgestone tires and they make quite a bit of noise now, but its no big deal. Just wondering if putting Dynamat on the doors would help road/tire noise, as well as benefiting the speakers.
-Hunter
#15
I already order two monsoon front door speakers so I hope they work with the non monsoon radio. I also order two sets of Dynamat sound dampening sheets and two baffles for the front door speakers. I also order some door panel remover tools so I don't have to pay some guy $100 to install all this stuff. Wish me luck!
I'll post some pictures of the process.
-Hunter
#16
Do a bit of reading at Crutchfield and some audio sites. A lot of people have this belief that more of something is always better. More brains would actually be better, but that is not where I am going.
Example: if you buy high power speakers... let's say 40-80 RMS watts 1000 W peak, your 25 watt stock radio can't drive those and they don't sound good, not even with the volume blaring. You pay more for that which you cannot use as well.
You need high sensitivity (90dB or more), low power speakers for a OEM type low powered radio. Look at the low end of the RMS watts, for like 5-10W range (2-35W would be the RMS range to shoot for), the peak power may be significantly higher but that is not important with a stock radio.
If you put in the more is better mow mow speakers your stock radio cannot drive them and you end up with mid range and tin.
Example: if you buy high power speakers... let's say 40-80 RMS watts 1000 W peak, your 25 watt stock radio can't drive those and they don't sound good, not even with the volume blaring. You pay more for that which you cannot use as well.
You need high sensitivity (90dB or more), low power speakers for a OEM type low powered radio. Look at the low end of the RMS watts, for like 5-10W range (2-35W would be the RMS range to shoot for), the peak power may be significantly higher but that is not important with a stock radio.
If you put in the more is better mow mow speakers your stock radio cannot drive them and you end up with mid range and tin.
#17
Do a bit of reading at Crutchfield and some audio sites. A lot of people have this belief that more of something is always better. More brains would actually be better, but that is not where I am going.
Example: if you buy high power speakers... let's say 40-80 RMS watts 1000 W peak, your 25 watt stock radio can't drive those and they don't sound good, not even with the volume blaring. You pay more for that which you cannot use as well.
You need high sensitivity (90dB or more), low power speakers for a OEM type low powered radio. Look at the low end of the RMS watts, for like 5-10W range (2-35W would be the RMS range to shoot for), the peak power may be significantly higher but that is not important with a stock radio.
If you put in the more is better mow mow speakers your stock radio cannot drive them and you end up with mid range and tin.
Example: if you buy high power speakers... let's say 40-80 RMS watts 1000 W peak, your 25 watt stock radio can't drive those and they don't sound good, not even with the volume blaring. You pay more for that which you cannot use as well.
You need high sensitivity (90dB or more), low power speakers for a OEM type low powered radio. Look at the low end of the RMS watts, for like 5-10W range (2-35W would be the RMS range to shoot for), the peak power may be significantly higher but that is not important with a stock radio.
If you put in the more is better mow mow speakers your stock radio cannot drive them and you end up with mid range and tin.
Bad news. I just found out that both rear door speakers are not working now. I coukd have sworn that they worked yesterday! Now I only have the two tweeters and the passenger front door speaker working. Could there be a short somewhere?
It's not like the other speakers sound bad or anything... They just don't produce sound.. I already ordered two monsoon front door speakers and a member here has offered to give me his two rear door speakers. Thanks btw!
Could this be a problem with the radio itself? Like it's not sending a signal to the speakers that aren't producing sound?
Any suggestions would be great!
-Hunter
#18
As I said, the OEM are crap. They died, they all do eventually. They are paper, they get wet over and over (unless you never ever drive in the rain/snow) and then puke. First my driver door went, then the left rear, then the passenger door, just days apart. I almost did not notice until the left rear went, it sounded strange but I could not put my finger on it until I checked it out in my driveway with the doors all open.
I have yet to see someone come on here and confirm an issue with the radio head when they ask your question.
From Crutchfield:
"Factory speakers are tricky beasts. When they're new, they sound just fine. They're efficient, so they don't require much power to play at a reasonable volume, plus they're admirably accurate. In general, though, they're not really cut out for the long haul in an environment as taxing as a car door.
These speakers are made of inexpensive materials, like paper, that can't hold up to the extremes of heat, cold, and humidity found in a car or truck. As time goes on, these extremes take their toll on the cheap materials, and the speakers begin to fall apart. When the materials go, sound quality goes with them.
Unfortunately for our ears, this deterioration doesn't happen all at once. If we were to jump in the car and hear a deteriorated speaker for the first time, we'd know immediately that something was wrong. But the gradual degradation of the average speaker lets our brains get used to the sound. As a result, even when we know that something's wrong, we don't always realize just how bad it is."
I have yet to see someone come on here and confirm an issue with the radio head when they ask your question.
From Crutchfield:
"Factory speakers are tricky beasts. When they're new, they sound just fine. They're efficient, so they don't require much power to play at a reasonable volume, plus they're admirably accurate. In general, though, they're not really cut out for the long haul in an environment as taxing as a car door.
These speakers are made of inexpensive materials, like paper, that can't hold up to the extremes of heat, cold, and humidity found in a car or truck. As time goes on, these extremes take their toll on the cheap materials, and the speakers begin to fall apart. When the materials go, sound quality goes with them.
Unfortunately for our ears, this deterioration doesn't happen all at once. If we were to jump in the car and hear a deteriorated speaker for the first time, we'd know immediately that something was wrong. But the gradual degradation of the average speaker lets our brains get used to the sound. As a result, even when we know that something's wrong, we don't always realize just how bad it is."
#19
As I said, the OEM are crap. They died, they all do eventually. They are paper, they get wet over and over (unless you never ever drive in the rain/snow) and then puke. First my driver door went, then the left rear, then the passenger door, just days apart. I almost did not notice until the left rear went, it sounded strange but I could not put my finger on it until I checked it out in my driveway with the doors all open.
I have yet to see someone come on here and confirm an issue with the radio head when they ask your question.
From Crutchfield:
"Factory speakers are tricky beasts. When they're new, they sound just fine. They're efficient, so they don't require much power to play at a reasonable volume, plus they're admirably accurate. In general, though, they're not really cut out for the long haul in an environment as taxing as a car door.
These speakers are made of inexpensive materials, like paper, that can't hold up to the extremes of heat, cold, and humidity found in a car or truck. As time goes on, these extremes take their toll on the cheap materials, and the speakers begin to fall apart. When the materials go, sound quality goes with them.
Unfortunately for our ears, this deterioration doesn't happen all at once. If we were to jump in the car and hear a deteriorated speaker for the first time, we'd know immediately that something was wrong. But the gradual degradation of the average speaker lets our brains get used to the sound. As a result, even when we know that something's wrong, we don't always realize just how bad it is."
I have yet to see someone come on here and confirm an issue with the radio head when they ask your question.
From Crutchfield:
"Factory speakers are tricky beasts. When they're new, they sound just fine. They're efficient, so they don't require much power to play at a reasonable volume, plus they're admirably accurate. In general, though, they're not really cut out for the long haul in an environment as taxing as a car door.
These speakers are made of inexpensive materials, like paper, that can't hold up to the extremes of heat, cold, and humidity found in a car or truck. As time goes on, these extremes take their toll on the cheap materials, and the speakers begin to fall apart. When the materials go, sound quality goes with them.
Unfortunately for our ears, this deterioration doesn't happen all at once. If we were to jump in the car and hear a deteriorated speaker for the first time, we'd know immediately that something was wrong. But the gradual degradation of the average speaker lets our brains get used to the sound. As a result, even when we know that something's wrong, we don't always realize just how bad it is."