Remove rear rotor?
#2
I know this post is more than 2 years old, but I just had this same issue:
i pulled the caliper off and the bracke that it mounts too. The rotor should just slide off. However, this is not just a rotor, it also has a drum for the emergency brake. Turns out there was a lip of rust on the drum braking surface that made it pretty much impossible to get the rotor off with a rubber mallet.
Solution: You should notice 2 threaded holes on opposite sides of the drum. The size of bolt you need is a 10M 1.25. So it is a 10mm width and a 1.25 pitch (I already did the guesswork for you by buying a few different bolts at the hardware store today) If you have 2 bolts that would be ideal. Torque evenly on the two bolts slowly and the drum should slide off. If your e-brake is stuck on or the surface is rusted too much around the hub, you may still have trouble. When you are done, put some anti-sieze around the hub.
My issue was that my e-brake (Parking brake) was sticking on. I got the rotor/drum of and PB Blasted the heck out of the e-brake mechanism until it would return on its own after the lever in the cabin was released. Not sure if anybody else has had there e-brake sticking on them...
i pulled the caliper off and the bracke that it mounts too. The rotor should just slide off. However, this is not just a rotor, it also has a drum for the emergency brake. Turns out there was a lip of rust on the drum braking surface that made it pretty much impossible to get the rotor off with a rubber mallet.
Solution: You should notice 2 threaded holes on opposite sides of the drum. The size of bolt you need is a 10M 1.25. So it is a 10mm width and a 1.25 pitch (I already did the guesswork for you by buying a few different bolts at the hardware store today) If you have 2 bolts that would be ideal. Torque evenly on the two bolts slowly and the drum should slide off. If your e-brake is stuck on or the surface is rusted too much around the hub, you may still have trouble. When you are done, put some anti-sieze around the hub.
My issue was that my e-brake (Parking brake) was sticking on. I got the rotor/drum of and PB Blasted the heck out of the e-brake mechanism until it would return on its own after the lever in the cabin was released. Not sure if anybody else has had there e-brake sticking on them...
#4
Update: Still having the problem - E-brake cable
Update:
I am still having the sticking problem. Especially after using the Parking brake. The brake returns upon release in the cabin. However, it does not return on the rear wheel. I got under the drivers door and noticed the front portion of the plastic e-brake cable housing is worn through from rubbing on a sharp edge of the frame. Therefore, the metal cable is exposed and binding on random debris that got flung into the now unsealed cable housing. I noticed another post that stated this problem was specific to the 2006 H3 parking brake setup. Anybody know if the 2007 replacement cable is any different, or did GM just get smarter and mount the same cable in a different location. Ultimately I need to know where to buy a new cable that won't keep doing this. Most of the cables I found online are not clear in the description whether it is the front portion of the cable or not.
Can someone please help and recommend any or all of the following?:
1. Replacement part number?
2. New cable routing scheme???
3. Is there a bulletin out on this, which I could use to get the work done free at dealer?
I am still having the sticking problem. Especially after using the Parking brake. The brake returns upon release in the cabin. However, it does not return on the rear wheel. I got under the drivers door and noticed the front portion of the plastic e-brake cable housing is worn through from rubbing on a sharp edge of the frame. Therefore, the metal cable is exposed and binding on random debris that got flung into the now unsealed cable housing. I noticed another post that stated this problem was specific to the 2006 H3 parking brake setup. Anybody know if the 2007 replacement cable is any different, or did GM just get smarter and mount the same cable in a different location. Ultimately I need to know where to buy a new cable that won't keep doing this. Most of the cables I found online are not clear in the description whether it is the front portion of the cable or not.
Can someone please help and recommend any or all of the following?:
1. Replacement part number?
2. New cable routing scheme???
3. Is there a bulletin out on this, which I could use to get the work done free at dealer?
#5
Update: I bought the cable - still looking for advice
Just did more digging and found this
AC25792420
I got from Car Stuff and used a coupon from RetailMeNot.com to get 10% off.
Order came to 17.96 shipped.
Coupon Code: CSCART
Still looking for an update on whether there is a different way that I can route this cable on my 2006. Is the frame configuration slightly different on the 2007 that would make this not happen?
AC25792420
I got from Car Stuff and used a coupon from RetailMeNot.com to get 10% off.
Order came to 17.96 shipped.
Coupon Code: CSCART
Still looking for an update on whether there is a different way that I can route this cable on my 2006. Is the frame configuration slightly different on the 2007 that would make this not happen?
#7
Its the main cable in the front
It is the main cable in the front. just prior to it being attached to the 2 rear cables. The spot where it is binding is where it makes the turn upward toward the cabin. The cable is pressed right up against a sharp edge on the frame. Ridiculous way to route a parking brake cable. Once I get the part in the mail and start the install, I will take some pictures and see if I can figure out how to post them here. In the meantime, you can just google the part # to find a stock picture of the part I am talking about.
#8
It is the main cable in the front. just prior to it being attached to the 2 rear cables. The spot where it is binding is where it makes the turn upward toward the cabin. The cable is pressed right up against a sharp edge on the frame. Ridiculous way to route a parking brake cable. Once I get the part in the mail and start the install, I will take some pictures and see if I can figure out how to post them here. In the meantime, you can just google the part # to find a stock picture of the part I am talking about.
__________________
2006 H3 Adventure Package. All options available.
Hello chemicalgutter,
Did changing the cable between the parking brake release and the connecting linkage resolve your problem? I'm having the same issue and trying to determine which cable I need to purchase or if its a problem in the left rear hub assembly?
I've also noticed a worn spot between the cab/frame and the cable and wondering if this is my problem as well?
Thanks in advance,
Pat
__________________
2006 H3 Adventure Package. All options available.
Hello chemicalgutter,
Did changing the cable between the parking brake release and the connecting linkage resolve your problem? I'm having the same issue and trying to determine which cable I need to purchase or if its a problem in the left rear hub assembly?
I've also noticed a worn spot between the cab/frame and the cable and wondering if this is my problem as well?
Thanks in advance,
Pat
#9
Update: Wrong part ordered - Please help
Update:
The part that I will need replaced is not the one that I bought.
You might have to remove the inner fender to replace it. I know I removed it to get a look at the parts during my attempted replacement. I realized that I have the wrong part and am now on the search for the right one.
So far I have found out that the these part numbers are not it:
AC25792420 - Front cable that attaches to the release in the cabin.
ACDELCO Part # 15869344
ACDELCO Part # 15869343
The above two got to each of the rear wheels.
I believe these parts are identical to the above 2 (just a different brand):
DORMAN Part # C660516
DORMAN Part # C660517
Funny: the only part that I need can not be found. Anybody have a link for a diagram of this with part numbers?
The part that I will need replaced is not the one that I bought.
You might have to remove the inner fender to replace it. I know I removed it to get a look at the parts during my attempted replacement. I realized that I have the wrong part and am now on the search for the right one.
So far I have found out that the these part numbers are not it:
AC25792420 - Front cable that attaches to the release in the cabin.
ACDELCO Part # 15869344
ACDELCO Part # 15869343
The above two got to each of the rear wheels.
I believe these parts are identical to the above 2 (just a different brand):
DORMAN Part # C660516
DORMAN Part # C660517
Funny: the only part that I need can not be found. Anybody have a link for a diagram of this with part numbers?
#10
I think this TSB describes my issue
reference the following link (I think thiis may be my issue, although I am not getting the noise)
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...ld-noise-1521/
Here is the text that is applicable:
Subject: Itch or Squeak Type Noise Coming from Lower Drivers Door Area (Reposition Park Brake Cable) #06-05-26-002 - (08/15/2006)
Models: 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Condition
Some customers may comment on an itch or squeak type noise coming from the lower driver's door area. This noise typically occurs when driving over uneven road surfaces.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be due to the park brake cable rubbing on the frame near the front left side body mount.
___________
I still don't know how to get the full details of the TSB, or if that is whats pasted above. Additionally, if there is a TSB, does that mean I can just take it to a dealer and have it fixed for free?
I did get the cable disconnected from the 2 rear cables (I used 2 pair of vice grips to eliminate the spring tension on each of the rear wheel E-brake assemblies). Just still confused about how I am going to get it easily detached from the front. While I was in there I tried to lube up the exposed, corroded metal cable theough the gaping hole in the plastic housing. I spent a good 10 minutes spraying w/ PB blast, cycling the parking brake. It never loosened up a bit IMO. Each time, I had to really pull hard on the cable to bring it back from being in the engaged position. Similarly, after I reinstalled it, every time I absolutely need to engage the parking brake. The disengage process involves pulling the release lever (as normal), then getting out below the drivers door (on hands and knees) and pulling at the cable (right where the rear 2 cables connect to that funny looking piece). That seems to work for fully disengaging it. Otherwise I get a rubbing noise.
This has been a royal pain so far.
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...ld-noise-1521/
Here is the text that is applicable:
Subject: Itch or Squeak Type Noise Coming from Lower Drivers Door Area (Reposition Park Brake Cable) #06-05-26-002 - (08/15/2006)
Models: 2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Condition
Some customers may comment on an itch or squeak type noise coming from the lower driver's door area. This noise typically occurs when driving over uneven road surfaces.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be due to the park brake cable rubbing on the frame near the front left side body mount.
___________
I still don't know how to get the full details of the TSB, or if that is whats pasted above. Additionally, if there is a TSB, does that mean I can just take it to a dealer and have it fixed for free?
I did get the cable disconnected from the 2 rear cables (I used 2 pair of vice grips to eliminate the spring tension on each of the rear wheel E-brake assemblies). Just still confused about how I am going to get it easily detached from the front. While I was in there I tried to lube up the exposed, corroded metal cable theough the gaping hole in the plastic housing. I spent a good 10 minutes spraying w/ PB blast, cycling the parking brake. It never loosened up a bit IMO. Each time, I had to really pull hard on the cable to bring it back from being in the engaged position. Similarly, after I reinstalled it, every time I absolutely need to engage the parking brake. The disengage process involves pulling the release lever (as normal), then getting out below the drivers door (on hands and knees) and pulling at the cable (right where the rear 2 cables connect to that funny looking piece). That seems to work for fully disengaging it. Otherwise I get a rubbing noise.
This has been a royal pain so far.
Last edited by chemicalgutter; 05-01-2012 at 04:08 PM.