Rack Assembly Top Bracket Bolt
#1
Rack Assembly Top Bracket Bolt
I have a 2008 H3 Alpha and am replacing the rack and pinion assembly. I have everything disconnected except for the top bolt on the passenger side rack bracket. The top bolt turns in thru the bracket, thru the frame and into a nut on the other side. That nut is accessible from the front but appears to be welded onto the frame as I am unable to loosen it. Does anyone know if that nut is indeed welded or does it turn off? There is no room to get a socket or wrench on the head of the bracket bolt above the rack assembly.
Does anyone know how to remove the top bracket bolt? Thanks in advance for any help.
buck
Does anyone know how to remove the top bracket bolt? Thanks in advance for any help.
buck
#2
Not related to your current issue and probably abit late but if you haven't already, MAKE SURE the steering wheel is FIXED and doesnt rotate, because if it does then at best you will need to get a new steering angle sensor and at worst a new clock spring + steering angle sensor
#4
I found out today that yes those nuts are captured nuts. It took me over 4 hrs but I got a 15 mm claw foot socket with a 3" extension on a 3/8 ratchet and was able to to get "one click" at a time. Once the claw foot rotated to 6 o/clock it would jam on the rack and I would have to pull the ratchet out and advance the claw foot to clear the rack, position the claw foot back on the bolt and continue on one click at a time. All of this is done blind.
The 11 mm bolt on the pinch joint where the column attaches to the rack assembly was really buried, almost impossible to get to and that bolt was rusted badly. I could not loosen it. Instead I got to the bolt thru the wheel well on the next joint up the column. It also was rusted solid and I had to lube it up and I had to take both inner tie rods off to get the rack out even with the 12" of column still attached.
I have a OEM rebuilt rack assembly that looks brand new. I also ordered the 12" column section plus u-joint . So assembly will not have any rusted bolts to deal with. The other bolts and nuts have been wire wheeled clean and lubricated. Hopefully the re-install will go much smoother and faster. going to torx everything back to factory specs.
I saved $850 in garage labor charges, but I have sure earned it, If I had to do it again, I let the garage do it.
The 11 mm bolt on the pinch joint where the column attaches to the rack assembly was really buried, almost impossible to get to and that bolt was rusted badly. I could not loosen it. Instead I got to the bolt thru the wheel well on the next joint up the column. It also was rusted solid and I had to lube it up and I had to take both inner tie rods off to get the rack out even with the 12" of column still attached.
I have a OEM rebuilt rack assembly that looks brand new. I also ordered the 12" column section plus u-joint . So assembly will not have any rusted bolts to deal with. The other bolts and nuts have been wire wheeled clean and lubricated. Hopefully the re-install will go much smoother and faster. going to torx everything back to factory specs.
I saved $850 in garage labor charges, but I have sure earned it, If I had to do it again, I let the garage do it.
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