Originally Posted by Hunner
(Post 287052)
Your post of this is the first time I saw the resistor fix. I guess I never saw or was not interested whenever it was first posted.
I would like to thank you for posting it recently. It seems to be happening more often to more people. It happened to me and I did the fix. Since I see people asking about it I thought I would post how I did it to help those needing more info. It's great to have people with a common interest getting together to fix things. The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7389.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7391.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7392.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7396.jpg I have a 2008 H3. The HVAC control knob is located close to driver's side, Whenever I move the knob off the a/c setting, it immediately allows hot air to enter into the vehicle. Will the above fix that? Or do I need to order and replace the HVAC control? :confused: Appreciate the help with this. :) Regards Bill |
this is the fix that you want to do. it has been a few weeks since I have done the fix and everything is working great.
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GG
Thanks very much for the reply |
AC temp control
I have the same problem on my 2006 H3. One click off the coldest position and it starts to blow hot air like our politicians. It's NOT the resister. There is two control actuators behind the radio console. To get to them you have to remove the black plastic facia under the steering column. The one right in front of your knees. To make it much easier to access the actuators, remove the steel cross member. Don't take out the radio 'cause you still can't get to them. I haven't fixed mine yet 'cause I live in Florida so I want the damned thing to blow cold air.:(
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Originally Posted by wbaird
(Post 288175)
I have a 2008 H3. The HVAC control knob is located close to driver's side, Whenever I move the knob off the a/c setting, it immediately allows hot air to enter into the vehicle. Will the above fix that? Or do I need to order and replace the HVAC control? :confused:
Appreciate the help with this. :) Regards Bill |
A/C repairs
The Hunner resistor fix is real, corrected my issue and saved me $$$ verse what the dealer wanted to replace the control unit. Thanks Hunner for the great posting.
Du47fl |
1 Attachment(s)
I've fixed this problem on two H3's. I trust Hunner's opinion and the resistor thing makes sense, but I've never done it. My experience has always been that it's a stuck actuator. There are 3 actuators (little motors that open and close HVAC doors) mounted above the driver's side of the transmission tunnel, to the right of the gas peddle and up. If you stick your head by the loud peddle and look right and up you can see them.
See diagram below. The #30 closest to the driver has always been the culprit for me. Attachment 12514 The first one I fixed, I just replaced it with a new actuator and that fixed it. On my second one, I accidentally ordered #32 and I didn't want to wait for shipping again, so I carefully opened the case on the #30 actuator to see how it was put together. It's basically just an electric motor with a couple gears. I could see that the gears were binding, so I lifted the motor gear off the drive gear, turned it one notch/tooth (so that when it was installed the door it moves would be slightly opened), and re-installed. After that it worked perfectly. I think what happened was the motor slightly over-rotated, had something keeping it from closing completely, or something like that and was causing some kind of error. I'm not really sure how that translates to only having hot or cold, but I'm sure the computers are designed to react to a jammed actuator to prevent damage and once the gear wasn't jammed anymore, it's worked perfectly for over a year. If I were you, I'd try Hunner's idea first because it's alot easier and cheaper, and if that doesn't work, try replacing the actuator. I don't recommend dissecting the actuator like I did, I probably got really lucky. Good luck! |
I swapped the two actuators because they are the same part #.... Still same hot issue so I'd say that eliminates it as being an actuator... I'm gonna do the resistor deal this weekend
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Again, I can't take credit for the resistor fix.
It came from ADVENTURE ACESSORIES (his spelling) I just wrote it up for the H3 application with pictures. Glad to see others having this work for them. |
Another happy customer of this solution. 30 minutes max today.
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THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
Same symptom of one notch high heat symptom. Repair time start to finish <15 minutes. SOLUTION VERIFIED |
I've been looking for this thread for over a week! Should have searched A/C and not "heater". doh. Well, now I know what I'm doing this weekend. :D
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Just fixed mine by following the instructions. $2.00 for resistors + cheap 9.88 radio shack soldering kit = success
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my 2.5 cents
first,from earlier,
It helps to shift to Low. However leaving the key on will drive you nuts so after removing the dash piece I put it back in park. Disconnecting the battery would of course shut the dinger bell off. So I would recommend that and you can leave it in low to have more room, now that we know this did fix it. (fingers crossed just kill the shift solenoid at the shifter. like stuck in garage with dead batt,or worse, on the rr tracks! now my q?, was this fixed in 08/09 or might I need it in my 09 at some point? btw #2, there are two motors, left and right heat! I guess you could get fancy and make dual controls! let the girls have all the heat they want huh. actually the 3rd motor is mode control. btw,as I look at the wiring,this problem would affect the "mode" control position as well. anybody notice a shift in the mode control? b4 you fixed this? |
Originally Posted by kavik
(Post 304008)
Just fixed mine by following the instructions. $2.00 for resistors + cheap 9.88 radio shack soldering kit = success
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Originally Posted by Hunner
(Post 287052)
Your post of this is the first time I saw the resistor fix. I guess I never saw or was not interested whenever it was first posted.
I would like to thank you for posting it recently. It seems to be happening more often to more people. It happened to me and I did the fix. Since I see people asking about it I thought I would post how I did it to help those needing more info. It's great to have people with a common interest getting together to fix things. The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7389.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7391.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7392.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/a...ucket/7396.jpg |
Dang it! I overpaid, mine cost $1.68. ;)
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Just bought an 08 alpha. And discovered that it had this problem. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced the control unit. Sounds like there is something in the Portugal units that is weak and is popping with regular use and a battery disconnect / reconnect can also damage it. The resistor trick or replacing the unit with a Mexico unit seems to correct the problem.
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Thanks for the how to on the resistor fix. This fixed my problem and is a fairly easy and quick fix. Great pics to thanks.
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This fix worked for me too.
For those that never took off console before (and to make it clearer for 1st timers)... Put fingers in 2 outlets and pull up and out If will feel like there are clips above the radio - there isnt but the ac vents are sleeves that slide into a duct so once you get the bottom disconnected, pinch a vent slot thing and pull forward then disconnect wires as needed |
A/C temp control
Just completed the resistor installation. Much easier than than I thought and much, much cheaper than a complete control unit replacement. 1 pack of Radio Shack resistors; $2.68, 1 hour time to perform, shrink tubing, heat gun and soldering pencil (low watt). Easy! Result, no freezing or cooking my ass off when I want some air recirc. Up yours GM!
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I am in Thailand and have had a very hard time getting this specific A/C issue fixed. This thread is awesome. I followed the instruction with a resister modification to HVAC wire. It worked great! The temperature control can be adjust accordingly now. Thank you so much for sharing the information.
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I did the resistor fix last night on my 2007 H3x and it worked like a charm!
That was my first time removing the center panel. I left all of the connectors attached except for the one that I had to work on. In hindsight, I probably would have disconnected all the plugs and set the center dash panel to the side....because having the connectors attached left for a TIGHT workspace. I felt like I was standing on my head at times getting a soldering iron in there and everything. Note: I know this a semi-necro-bump and the forum discourages that. But this thread is the real deal and still contains a valuable/relevant fix. |
Did mine yesterday afternoon and it worked like a champ!
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Reviving old thread. Anyone try a resistor on the mode control for a similar issue
Originally Posted by nelsontj
(Post 340258)
Did mine yesterday afternoon and it worked like a champ!
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Originally Posted by TechnoSean
(Post 365146)
we have a 2007 h3 (original owners), and I just did the resistor trick. Worked great for the temp control. I noticed that before i installed the resistor basically 2 of the 3 actuators would move a complete 90 degrees as soon as I moved the temp one click from coldest. I am having a similar issue where moving the mode one click from the left sends all of the air to the windshield, so I assume that actuator is doing the same thing. Would installing a 68ohm resistor in-line to one of the wires on mode control fix this? If so any clue which wire?
READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping' |
:).
Originally Posted by Doc Olds
(Post 365150)
Have you have the HVAC recall performed yet? Also keep in mind this thread is OLD and we frown upon digging up old threads.
READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping' that being said, the recall is just on the hvac resistor behind the glove box, correct? I actually replaced that a year before the recall myself because the blower stopped working, and I noticed how totally fried that thing was. I’m shocked our h3 didn’t have a fire. The blower works fine, temp works fine now, but the mode control does not. |
Thanks
Burnt Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor and connector for me.
I'm ordering the parts, should be good to go real soon. Thanks! |
I have replaced my blend door and still does not work.. Only way my heat will work is cranked all the way up on 90 degrees turn it down to 89 degrees and it blows cold not a/c cold but cold. I don’t know other than changing the thermostat in the head liner which I guess will be my next step to solving this issue. Any help?
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Originally Posted by Hunner
(Post 287052)
Your post of this is the first time I saw the resistor fix. I guess I never saw or was not interested whenever it was first posted.
I would like to thank you for posting it recently. It seems to be happening more often to more people. It happened to me and I did the fix. Since I see people asking about it I thought I would post how I did it to help those needing more info. It's great to have people with a common interest getting together to fix things. The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.
Attachment 13411 Attachment 13412 Attachment 13413 Attachment 13414 |
Glad this OLD Thread could help, but you should have saved us the dinosaur resurrection.......... :rolleyes:
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