Hello,

I have checked every thread I could find but it is still not clear to me how people are replacing their front Monsoon speakers and tweeters with aftermarket components. I bought some Focal SG 165a1 6.5" component speakers and installed the woofer portion in the front doors. I used the Metra 72-4568 harnesses to connect the woofers to the stock wiring. I followed another post to remove the two front pillars and remove the old tweeters and replace with the new Focal tweeters by using hot glue. Worked great. Here is where I am confused. It seems that the stock tweeter wiring goes all the way back to the Monsoon Amp and the crossover is built into the amp. I would prefer to use the stock wiring for the tweeters if possible.

Here are my questions.

1. If the Monsoon amp does have a built in crossover for the tweeter, would I still need to use the crossovers that came with the Focal components? Or would I need to run new wiring for the tweeters and use the Focal crossovers? If I need to run new wiring, where is the best place to splice in the crossover to the front speakers?

2. Currently the new woofers are installed but they are cracking/popping almost worst than the paper stock monsoon speakers were when the bass is slightly turned up (I currently do not have them ran through the crossover). But, from my understanding, it's not that important to run the woofers through the crossovers since the naturally won't play highs anyway.

Note: I have focal 165 2-way's in the back doors and they have never came close to making cracking or popping noises.

Am I missing something here? Why would my brand new components distort under bass when their power rating is 120W Max?


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Also, i wanted to point out that I replaced the stock Monsoon Sub with a 2 Ohm 8 inch Kicker subwoofer. Could the low ohms on the Sub be distorting my front component woofers? I am starting to think that is the case. I know with these Monsoon Amps the Ohms setup is really weird and alot of car audio places wont replace speakers without replacing the amp and wiring. Trying to avoid spending a few G's. If the sub is the culprit, I am okay with totally removing it and installing a external Sub and Amp. That way I can have Sub control on my Pioneer deck.

Ideas? Comments?

 

Thanks for all the responses (kidding) but I figured it out. I read somewhere that the factory monsoon sub was 2 ohm so I bought a 2 ohm 8" sub to replace it. Well I don't know what it is but it's not 2 Ohm. Once I unplugged the sub my components sounded 20 times better. the system almost doesn't need a sub since the components kick out so much bass. I listen to a lot of rap though and I like a little more bass than normal. But nothing crazy, been there done that and I'm not trying to impress any high school kids.

I mounted the crossovers under the dash and used the factory wiring for the tweeters. I just extended the factory tweeter wiring using butt connectors and a crimp so the wire would reach under the dash. I did not run the component woofers through the crossover. The manual says to wire them directly for more dynamic range anyway.

So now I need to check out eBay and/or Amazon for a 10 or 12 inch sub/box/amp com
bo. This will be better anyway so I have direct sub control from the Pioneer headunit. I'll just put on some quick connectors in the back so I can unplug it and remove when needed.

 

If memory serves me correctly. The Monsoon sub is a DVC 4ohm 8" run in stereo. I have one in the HUMMER Parts Attic. I'll have to grab it and hook it up to the multi meter to get the exact Ohm load per voice coil.

 

Hello again,

Still having issues with my front Aftermarket Component Woofers clipping. The components are rated at 60 Watt RMS and 120 Watt Max. I am thinking that this is occurring because they are quite a bit under powered. They sound Fine at low volumns but once I turn up the volumn sorta loud they start to pop and distort. I read somewhere that the Monsoon amp sends 25w per channel. Is this my problem? Should I have bought lower end woofers up front? Now I'm starting to think about replacing the whole Monsoon amp but I'm not sure if I want to take it that far. I originally just wanted to replace a blown speaker so I bought all new Focal 165 2-ways for the back and components for the front as stated above to avoid blowing any more paper speakers. Now I'm about $300 deep and I feel like I would have been better off just ordering factory monsoon replacements. Any help or suggestions on where I go from here would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

First make sure all of your speakers are in phase (amp positive to speaker positive and negative to negative). Then, take the passive crossover that came with your Focal separates and put it inline with the front door woofers only. Do you still have the distortion at 3/4 volume?

 

I thought about that too Tainter. Lets say that does fix it. It is still my understanding that the tweeters and the front speakers run all the way back to th amp separately. How would I would I possibly wire this? The I thought about using the door speakers to run the tweeters as well and run a new wire from the door to the tweeter. But from posts I have read, it seems nearly impossible to get s new wire through without taking the front doors off and drilling holes.

 

Every time I read about someone tinkering with the super monsoon system,I am glad mine is stock and truly great.
My advice is to keep it stock,it's super.
If it ain;t broke,dont fix it.

 

I agree that the Monsoon sounds good. But, i wanted a Nav/Bluetooth/DVD/HD Radio/Backup Cam. When you add an aftermarket deck its not long before the Monsoon speakers start to wear out and make pop/crack noises. If I still was using the factory deck, i wouldnt have changed the speakers.

But, I did change the factory deck and now I am going deeper and deeper down the rabbits hole.

My girlfriend just got a new Jeep Grand Cherokee and the sound blows away the stock Monsoon in the H3. I just want something comparable to that system. Sorta jealous and I dont like the idea that a Jeep Cherokee has ANYTHING better than my H3. (Besides the V8, I can't compete with that). I could run it over though. LOL.

 

Yes, the tweeter is run off of it's own L&R channels of the amp. There is a small passive crossover/bass blocker attached to the tweeter(OEM) itself. In order not to blow your Focal tweets you will need to install one for each tweet inline.

Love Focal inverted dome tweets, smooth not harsh.