You are correct **had a typo ***should have read


2008-2010 H3 3.7L L5 DHOC LLR VIN Code E
2009-2010 H3T 3.7L L5 DHOC LLR VIN Code E

 

The part number 32501 has multiple coverage abilities for late model gas and diesel trucks as well as car applications.
The max Energy product is internet updatable for different applications and platforms that each part number covers.

If a customer decides to remove the tuning from his vehicle it can be updated for use on a different covered vehicle application.

The warranty is to the "original vehicle and owner" as long as they are together. (not limited to 1 year etc as other products may be)
The warranty does Not transfer to another vehicle or owner.

Hope this helps.

I try to check the forum at least daily during the week.


GW
Hypertech Inc.

 

Thanks for the clarification.

 

PCMforless offers an excellent service. You select your own parameters from a scroll down order sheet, so yes you can have them calibrate the speedo for tires, select shift firmness, add in an intake, CAT back, TB mods and call/email them as to whatever else you may want to do with the tune. This is the "mail order tune" and works fabulous, but is fixed.

The advantage of a Hypertech for the 3.7L and the Superchips Cortex for the 5.3L, is that you can change your tune yourself as many times as you want in whatever variables their tuners allow, but you pay a good chunk more for that ability. These are the "pocket tuners" and allow do it your self changes.

So as I understand it, mail order is your only options for the 06/07 I5s and the 10 Alphas, the rest now have pocket tuners.

It is great to see more options for performance boosts to our trucks.

Kudos Hypertech.

 

I just got the Hypertech tuner for my 09 H3 and was wondering about the shift point adjustments. How do you know if they need to be changed and if so how much do you change them?

 

Congrats Chuck, you have been appointed our Forum Hypertech pocket tuner tester.

You may have to PM Hypertech, or email them, since that haven't been here in months, so please do and follow up with us on what you find out.

By way of simple example, with my PCM tune I selected the firmest shifts available, so the shifts are quick and firm (no pause or mush between gears). You really only feel that when in the throttle pretty good.

Your pocket tuner is like the old "B&M TransPaks" for old school no brain controlled transmissions. Instead of getting dirty dropping the pan and making physical changes to the valve body, you make selections through the tuner. If you were Tainter, I know he would have played with every available setting by now.

 

Yes, please report back with results and impression of the tuner!

Changing the shift points isn't necessary if you are driving stock size tires, but by delaying the shifts with the stock tires you can achieve in a bit more pep when accelerating, but doing this will also use a tad bit more gas. In ordinary daily driving, the factory settings often shift a bit too soon which result in a smoother transition between gears, but results in more of a mushy bogged-down feel. By increasing the rpm's between shifts, it will be more responsive.

With oversize tires, delaying the shifts will help restore some of the perceived loss of power.

 

I would suggest setting all of your shift points to +200 and set the rev limiter to +500. This will delay your WOT shift point just a bit to use a little more high RPM HP before you shift and loose the RPM.

 

Thanks for the help on the shift points. Now does anyone know where the fuse for the Onstar and xm are located? Manual doesn't list them in the fuse locations.

 

The instructons say to pull the Onstar and XM fuse before starting. I couldn't find that fuse in the manual anywhere. after a little Google research I found it on the Pos battery cable. Little 10 amp fuse on a small wire. Pull that and they both go dead. Going to give the programmer a shot in a bit.