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Hummer H3For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.
I just changed out the front driver's side axle along with the seal, and it seemed to go well. However, I had a quarter size spot of gear oil on the garage floor this morning, so I'll have to do it again.
Is there a tool to help seat the seal? How have others installed?
2007 with 203,000 miles. I just changed out the front driver's side axle along with the seal, and it seemed to go well. However, I had a quarter size spot of gear oil on the garage floor this morning, so I'll have to do it again. Is there a tool to help seat the seal? How have others installed?
I'm glad your axle replacement went smoothly. I had a heck of a time with mine.
If you haven't already, consider leaving the fill hole bolt out to dribble out any fluid above the fill line to rule out overfilling. Also, inspect to see if the fluid is dripping from the seal and not just left over from the mess (wipe everything nice and clean and then wait).
My leaky seal was not related to the seal directly, but the axle coupler bearings in the axle support housing. I'll attach photos below. I am hoping your issue is just a misaligned seal, but while you have the half shaft axle out again, take a look inside the outer axle housing with a flashlight to inspect the roller bearings. If there are metal shavings or missing bearings, those could be your leak problem (the axle coupler in such a case allows for the axle to push down on the seal leading to a leak). Also, attempt to move the axle coupler to check for "play" in the needle bearings under the coupler.
I used a 1-inch diameter wooden dowel I had laying around to drive in my seal. I "walked" around the outer rim of the seal gently wacking at the dowel with a rubber mallet.
I hope all goes well for you.
Outer needle bearings where the half shaft axle rides & inner needle bearings where the axle coupler rides. Inspect for damaged bearings (missing needles or metal shavings). Inspect of excessive play at axle coupler. Installing seal with dowel and mallet (my support bracket was removed)
My axle did not leak at all until I replaced the axle, and even though I should have (and was planning to), I have not yet changed the fluid in the diff, so I didn't touch the level.
However, from your second pic Dylan, I do know that I installed the seal the wrong direction. The old seal was rather crudded up, and came out in pieces, so I was not able to compare. Seemed like the metal side should have been facing outward at the time.
My fault. Lesson learned. I'll be paying with my time
Gentlemen, I very much appreciate the comments. My axle did not leak at all until I replaced the axle, and even though I should have (and was planning to), I have not yet changed the fluid in the diff, so I didn't touch the level. However, from your second pic Dylan, I do know that I installed the seal the wrong direction. The old seal was rather crudded up, and came out in pieces, so I was not able to compare. Seemed like the metal side should have been facing outward at the time. My fault. Lesson learned. I'll be paying with my time
Ryan
Hey Ryan,
Glad to know your issue was due to improper seal orientation. The cheapest and most accessible part! I actually thought the metal portion made sense to have on the outside, too, but I decided to search for a video on it to be sure.
I totally understand not wanting to deal with the hassle of changing fluids, but I strongly recommend you just go for it and get it over with. The auto parts stores usually have a gallon jug of Lucas 75W-90 for about $50, which is a lot cheaper than the small squeeze bottles (like $15 each). Here's a quick video on how to do it (front & back) on our H3's, if you're interested:
Almost every post I have seen concerning the half shaft says go OEM. Yes I know OEM is the best choice. Is there a different brand used with torsion bars turned up? A friend told me his buddy uses Cardone and he is a serious wheeler and his is cranked to 23.25. Thoughts?
I know people who went cheap on half shaft replacement (like Cardone) and ended up with the half shaft so short that it actually popped itself loose from the differential, toasted the female splines in the diff side by being so loose after having popped free of the lock detent, then had to fix a much bigger mess. GM redesigned the OEM Half Shafts to make them longer than the first version and made the shaft itself between the CVs thicker sometime in early 2008 (pretty sure most 08s and all 09 & 10s had the second version from the factory). They did that because of issues with the shorter and less beefy first version.
I have seen the cheap azzed Cardones in hand and directly compared them to the ACDelcos more than once. ACDelco has this thing known as Quality Control in place, and Cardone is out to lunch in that department. There really is no comparison. I swapped my 07 half shafts for an 09 ACDelco set, kept the old ones for trail spares and ended up giving one to a guy to get home after he destroyed an aftermarket el cheapo during some mild wheeling. Cheap copies are cheap for a reason.
My 09 has its factory Half Shafts still in place, and I have a pair of them for spares. Make pretty good dumb bells meanwhile.
My understanding of the reason for re-design was the entry of the Alpha to the H3 line with its cast Iron font diff, so the timing above makes sense. They also added the cast iron diff to the adventure I5s as they expected those to be used as intended, for off road fun. Since they bumped the diff from aluminum to cast iron for HD use, they also bumped the Half shafts to match. The added length was also for the intended use of 35" tires and a T Bar leveling.
You are free to use whatever you want, but you won't find anything but ACDelco half shafts on mine.