Exhaust bolts or studs
#1
Exhaust bolts or studs
Gents
Well since I bought this little beasty a few weeks ago I just noticed a little ticking sound coming from my motor on the exhaust side a couple of days ago. So under further investigation I found one of the rear exhaust bolt missing and one ready to fall out and the rest loose. WTF! Anyway I'm going to order a new exhaust gasket, felpro has one for like 10 bucks, and order some new exhaust bolts while I'm at it. So my main question is should I put exhuast studs or bolts back in. I wish Stage8 would make the exhaust locking bolts for our H3 Hummers. That would stop this issue. It seem to me that a lot of people have the same issues with their cast exhaust manifold. What are your thoughts on this issue.
Well since I bought this little beasty a few weeks ago I just noticed a little ticking sound coming from my motor on the exhaust side a couple of days ago. So under further investigation I found one of the rear exhaust bolt missing and one ready to fall out and the rest loose. WTF! Anyway I'm going to order a new exhaust gasket, felpro has one for like 10 bucks, and order some new exhaust bolts while I'm at it. So my main question is should I put exhuast studs or bolts back in. I wish Stage8 would make the exhaust locking bolts for our H3 Hummers. That would stop this issue. It seem to me that a lot of people have the same issues with their cast exhaust manifold. What are your thoughts on this issue.
#2
Also does anyone know what thread size the bolts are. Because stage8 makes this kit for the 2.8 Chevy motors.
#6910 GM 2.8L & 3.8L V6 HEADER KIT*| Stage 8
12) 8mm-1.25x25mm bolts 6pt DHH
#6910 GM 2.8L & 3.8L V6 HEADER KIT*| Stage 8
12) 8mm-1.25x25mm bolts 6pt DHH
#3
There's a search button above! You will find tons of information using it. Btw, I prefer studs and locking nuts. GL
Exhaust Manifold: All Technical Service Bulletins
Exhaust System - Ticking Noises
Bulletin No.: 08-06-05-008
Date: October 21, 2008
Subject:
Exhaust Tick Noise, Exhaust Manifold (Replace Gasket, Bolts and Manifold as Necessary)
Models:
2006-2009 HUMMER H3
with 3.5L or 3.7L Engine (VINs 6, E - RPOs L52, LLR)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a tick or noise coming from the exhaust. Upon further inspection, the technician may discover a leaking exhaust
manifold gasket. In some cases the leak may be accompanied by a broken manifold bolt.
Correction
Replace the exhaust manifold gasket and bolts (new part number) following the Exhaust Manifold Replacement procedure listed in SI. Be sure to follow
the torque sequence procedure and tighten the bolts to a MAXIMUM of 20 Nm.
The exhaust manifolds are ductile; they must be allowed to move with heat expansion and cooling contraction. The manifold bolt holes are larger than
the bolts to allow manifold movement. If the bolts are overtightened or torqued unevenly, the manifold movement will be restricted, which may result in manifold cracking or bolt breakage.
In rare cases, the exhaust manifold may also be cracked most likely between exhaust runners # 4 and # 5.
DO NOT replace the exhaust manifold if it is not cracked. Often the exhaust manifold will appear warped when unbolted this condition is NOT a reason
for exhaust manifold replacement.
DO NOT replace the exhaust manifold if a bolt is broken and/or the gasket is leaking.
DO NOT remove the cylinder head to extract a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Follow the bolt extraction procedure found in this bulletin.
Broken Bolt Extraction Procedure:
Important:
Always use penetrating lubricant when removing studs or nuts. Do not exceed 150 rpm tool speed when removing or replacing the three
exhaust flange gasket studs or nuts. The studs are a thread lock design, and damage to the stud or manifold will occur if 150 rpm tool speed is exceeded.
Remove all unbroken manifold bolts and flange nuts.
1. Remove the exhaust manifold.
2. Using a center punch, dimple the center of the broken bolt.
3. Using a right angle air drill and a 5/64 bit, drill a hole through the broken bolt.
4. Spray penetrating lubricant through the drilled hole so that the bolt threads are saturated from the back side.
5. Heat the cylinder head flange area around the bolt.
6. Using a bolt extractor, remove the broken bolt from the head.
Exhaust Manifold: All Technical Service Bulletins
Exhaust System - Ticking Noises
Bulletin No.: 08-06-05-008
Date: October 21, 2008
Subject:
Exhaust Tick Noise, Exhaust Manifold (Replace Gasket, Bolts and Manifold as Necessary)
Models:
2006-2009 HUMMER H3
with 3.5L or 3.7L Engine (VINs 6, E - RPOs L52, LLR)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a tick or noise coming from the exhaust. Upon further inspection, the technician may discover a leaking exhaust
manifold gasket. In some cases the leak may be accompanied by a broken manifold bolt.
Correction
Replace the exhaust manifold gasket and bolts (new part number) following the Exhaust Manifold Replacement procedure listed in SI. Be sure to follow
the torque sequence procedure and tighten the bolts to a MAXIMUM of 20 Nm.
The exhaust manifolds are ductile; they must be allowed to move with heat expansion and cooling contraction. The manifold bolt holes are larger than
the bolts to allow manifold movement. If the bolts are overtightened or torqued unevenly, the manifold movement will be restricted, which may result in manifold cracking or bolt breakage.
In rare cases, the exhaust manifold may also be cracked most likely between exhaust runners # 4 and # 5.
DO NOT replace the exhaust manifold if it is not cracked. Often the exhaust manifold will appear warped when unbolted this condition is NOT a reason
for exhaust manifold replacement.
DO NOT replace the exhaust manifold if a bolt is broken and/or the gasket is leaking.
DO NOT remove the cylinder head to extract a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Follow the bolt extraction procedure found in this bulletin.
Broken Bolt Extraction Procedure:
Important:
Always use penetrating lubricant when removing studs or nuts. Do not exceed 150 rpm tool speed when removing or replacing the three
exhaust flange gasket studs or nuts. The studs are a thread lock design, and damage to the stud or manifold will occur if 150 rpm tool speed is exceeded.
Remove all unbroken manifold bolts and flange nuts.
1. Remove the exhaust manifold.
2. Using a center punch, dimple the center of the broken bolt.
3. Using a right angle air drill and a 5/64 bit, drill a hole through the broken bolt.
4. Spray penetrating lubricant through the drilled hole so that the bolt threads are saturated from the back side.
5. Heat the cylinder head flange area around the bolt.
6. Using a bolt extractor, remove the broken bolt from the head.
#4
Gents
Well since I bought this little beasty a few weeks ago I just noticed a little ticking sound coming from my motor on the exhaust side a couple of days ago. So under further investigation I found one of the rear exhaust bolt missing and one ready to fall out and the rest loose. WTF!
It seem to me that a lot of people have the same issues with their cast exhaust manifold. What are your thoughts on this issue.
Well since I bought this little beasty a few weeks ago I just noticed a little ticking sound coming from my motor on the exhaust side a couple of days ago. So under further investigation I found one of the rear exhaust bolt missing and one ready to fall out and the rest loose. WTF!
It seem to me that a lot of people have the same issues with their cast exhaust manifold. What are your thoughts on this issue.
Of course the prior owner may have had work done and he/she or some slob might not have properly torqued the exhaust bolts?
Good luck.
#5
Nope, thank god, that's not the case here. I already verified that the bolt is not broke off in the head. So can someone tell me what the bolt thread and dimensions are? It looks like 6M x 1.25. Anyone?
I think you will be lucky if the bolt is just missing, more than likely it broke off in the head. Many... MANY more instances of broken exhaust bolts than just becoming loose. The intake manifold bolts are the ones that are notorious for loosening up.
Of course the prior owner may have had work done and he/she or some slob might not have properly torqued the exhaust bolts?
Good luck.
Of course the prior owner may have had work done and he/she or some slob might not have properly torqued the exhaust bolts?
Good luck.
#7
You need to look no further than Figure 11 in Hummerz post.
#8
Thanks for pointing that out!!!! So it is (8M x 1.25 pitch x 30mm length)
These will work if you want to spend the extra dough on your exhaust. Won't back out.
#8906B 4.6L & 5.4L FORD 8MM-1.25 X 30MM*| Stage 8
These will work if you want to spend the extra dough on your exhaust. Won't back out.
#8906B 4.6L & 5.4L FORD 8MM-1.25 X 30MM*| Stage 8
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