Check Engine Error Code P0014
 

So yesterday on the way to work my wife had error P0014 come up, on the way home it went off and has not come back on since. Today after work I took it to Advanced Auto Parts and they check for the code which is above. The complete messages:
P0014
Cam Position - Actuator B - Bnk 1 - Timing over advance

Quick look in his computer he though might be the Camshaft sensor but it did not look like he really knew whats going on. Did anyone here have the same error and what did you do ? Since the error went away should I not worry about if it does not come back ? If it is the sensor where would I look for it ? They are not that expensive at Auto Zone but it looked like a part that might be hard to get to. Any help will be much appreciated.

p0014, exhaust cam retard
 

a variable solenoid controls the cam timing retard and an error from desired and actual will cause this code. could be oil related since the cam chain system depends on oil lube. maybe sticky parts?, wear?mileage?

warning out is good news, the history is deleted after 40 run cycles, if good,
so sez my new book

i have no other knowledge since im new to this machine and just got the books, and stumbled into the info

tom

im not sure if you are being funny or this is actual wording from the book? what the heck is desired and actual ? do you have any idea where this retard is? maybe i can pull it out and look for dirt/sludge. if it is oil lube, what exactly needs addressing, im assuming not an oil change especially since I just had one. Also it seems like the error went out after just one cycle, max 2, so is that better then erasing after 40?

sorry bout my typing, lazy
 

im not good so i try 2 be quik

the controller sends the desired cam angle info to the actuator and gets an actual position signal back from sensor. the actuator is a hydraulic piston moved by oil controlled by a variable solenoid.

so sumthin stuck!!

the chain slides over the actuator plate which is moved by oil pressure.

and all this probably constantly changing to squeese out a little more power or better mileage

i did read b 4 that this is how the i5 can use reg gas and run 10/1 compression. my old 460 lincoln/mustang was 10.5/1 and demanded premium. when it looked like $2 gas was gone forever i sold it and have no use for the "no drill"democRATs ever since,,,rant intended

so if it happens again id be lookin seriously,,,for something??
tom

well it looks like you know a lot more then me Tom, do you suppose if this returns this is something I can look and clean myself or is it too involved and be taken to a mechanic? I am pretty good with stuff and can follow directions, meaning I can change brakes, plugs, oil, install a radio, but if this involves messing with the engine or anything fragile I would rather have someone else take care of it.

???
 

dont know where the sensors are but i bet on mech stuff thats buried under layers of engine covers i wouldnt want to mess with ,,,till the h3,and i r old n gray,

all engines are a bear to work on and this,great one, is more so i think.

it is a marval of engineering i think,,,very complex

tom

Clean and Check Cam Actuator
 

I got the P0014 code a month ago. I added a quart of oil, checked the solenoid plug and then erased the code. In a month it hadn't come back on but my Hummer idled really rough. I pulled the Camshaft Actuator and found that Screen 2 of 3 was stuck (they need to move about 3/16th of an inch one way or another). I cleaned the screen because the flow of oil was restricted and caused the screen to push into the holes (this caused flat spots). I worked the screen back and forth with a screw driver while holding my finger nail with slight pressure near each hole. This worked the flat spots out of the screen and it started moving much easier. Solved my rough idle problem.

I had a 'surging' idle and CEL over the weekend. Drew the 0014 code at the local parts store. Called for the camshaft sensor...so I bought one (of two) and replace it. I am not a mechanic's mechanic and was happy to find it is in a somewhat accessable place on the top front on the right side of the engine. No. 10 metric socket and figuring out how to get the electrical clip off and done. NO JOY! Still rough idle in my case. Cleaned the MAF, Throttle body, and good to go.

Anyway, the sensor $30+ and an hour.

Hope this helps.

No need to add comments to a 4 year old post!

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