battery going dead 10 volt drain on it
#1
04-19-2011, 02:01 PM
battery going dead 10 volt drain on it
Hello to all. 07 h3 60000 mile battery goes dead over night.Not the battery or alternator. With my meter & test light in series with the batt cable I got a 10 volt draw & test light is lit.Removing the typical fuses only lowered it a little. I removed all the fuses, circuit beakers everything inside the fuse box.Still have the power drain. Removed both alternator cables.Tomarrow going to isolate the starter & any cables at that point. Anyone have any ideas?????? Thanks, tom south Florida
#2
04-19-2011, 02:40 PM
i posted this many times,,search.
normal current is 110 milliamp.
thats .110 amp. 1/10 amp,ok?
measure with an ammeter in series with a batt cable.
when u connect u will see apx 2 amps for a minute+-, then .110 amp. more is bad. then, pull fuses to find problem,probably where someone did some work/messing with wires,or the radio. if u touch an ammeter across the batt,u will blow it.
caution!
normal current is 110 milliamp.
thats .110 amp. 1/10 amp,ok?
measure with an ammeter in series with a batt cable.
when u connect u will see apx 2 amps for a minute+-, then .110 amp. more is bad. then, pull fuses to find problem,probably where someone did some work/messing with wires,or the radio. if u touch an ammeter across the batt,u will blow it.
caution!
#3
04-21-2011, 08:59 AM
Hi Tom, I had a similar problem and took my H3 to the dealer. They found a frayed, worn-through wire harness "under the fuse block". They repaired the exposed wires and put in a new battery (the old one was trashed by this point) and I have not had any problems since (two weeks so far).
For me, the battery problem was part of the door locks and driver's window not working. My battery would drain overnight, and after I jumped it, the winodw and locks didn't work. All the fuses were OK, but it looks like short/drain somehow affected the body control module (BCM) which disabled the locks & window. The BCM part is speculation, but seems to make sense.
-Alan
For me, the battery problem was part of the door locks and driver's window not working. My battery would drain overnight, and after I jumped it, the winodw and locks didn't work. All the fuses were OK, but it looks like short/drain somehow affected the body control module (BCM) which disabled the locks & window. The BCM part is speculation, but seems to make sense.
-Alan
#4
04-21-2011, 09:58 AM
im just stating some facts so ppl have a "normal"reference point, 110ma is normal.
its hard for me to figure wires causing a drain, without blowing a fuse,but,,,
the express window down module seems to play a big role in many problems.
dont know anything abt how bcm fits in the problem.
btw,going from memory,it seems that an old ford vav i had took only about .01 amp, 10 ma drain,so 110 is a good bit and guys who let a car sit for many days are looking for trouble.
.1 amp for 10 hrs overnite is like 1 amp for an hour and ive got a mini van with a marginal batt that goes ded quik with one stinkin interior lite on!
i dont let anything sit more than 3-4 days without a drive, or unhook the batt.
its hard for me to figure wires causing a drain, without blowing a fuse,but,,,
the express window down module seems to play a big role in many problems.
dont know anything abt how bcm fits in the problem.
btw,going from memory,it seems that an old ford vav i had took only about .01 amp, 10 ma drain,so 110 is a good bit and guys who let a car sit for many days are looking for trouble.
.1 amp for 10 hrs overnite is like 1 amp for an hour and ive got a mini van with a marginal batt that goes ded quik with one stinkin interior lite on!
i dont let anything sit more than 3-4 days without a drive, or unhook the batt.
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