Aluminum Radiator Leak
Hi guys I installed this aluminum radiator exactly 13 months ago. Like I don't
have enough problems with my H3 this winter. Suddenly one month after the warranty expired I have a leak. My question here is can an aluminum radiator be repaired??? I went to a radiator repair shop and the guy said its gonna cost alot of money to fix it. He recommended I go buy a metal Apoxy and fix it myself. It seemed to me as if he didn't want to be bothered. This is what I have to deal with here. Are there any opinions here to point me in the right direction? I bought this radiator on eBay from a new jersey based seller. :mad:https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...a320bb5268.jpg |
I've had several radiators (aluminum) repaired over the years and it has cost between $45 for a leak test (which they apply to the repair if needed) to a total of $150.
Try a different radiator shop. |
Definitely take the leak elsewhere. Radiator shops are in the business of repairing and/or replacing radiators, some people do not like to work.
Yes it can be fixed, but if it was a cheap Asian made aluminum radiator, he may have a point. If you paid about $160 for it, might be easier to replace. |
Well guys I went to 3 different radiator repair shops today and all I got were ridiculous prices for a small leak repair. I stopped at a local GM
dealer out of curiosity and I inquired about an AC/Delco radiator after the parts attendant told me $398.00 plus tax. I walked out. From my experiences I have real bad luck with plastic tanks. I'm going to continue shopping around. And CSF has a new improved aluminum radiator. For a few bucks more than AC/Delco Thanks guys for all your advice. |
Originally Posted by MrClark
(Post 349998)
Well guys I went to 3 different radiator repair shops today and all I got were ridiculous prices for a small leak repair. I stopped at a local GM
dealer out of curiosity and I inquired about an AC/Delco radiator after the parts attendant told me $398.00 plus tax. I walked out. From my experiences I have real bad luck with plastic tanks. I'm going to continue shopping around. And CSF has a new improved aluminum radiator. For a few bucks more than AC/Delco Thanks guys for all your advice. I had considered a metal radiator but decided a trans cooler was the safer bet. Seems like I was right if the metal ones leak too. Not sure what's up with the radiators cracking in both the H3 and H2 but be careful! |
Would you guys believe I've been to 5 radiator repair shops this past week only to be told by all of them "nobody fixes radiators anymore we only replace them". Now these are shops who advertise radiator repairs. If it wasn't for this winter weather I would've made the attempt myself, to fix my radiator. Also Please pass this Warning on
DO NOT BUY THE ALUMINUM RADIATOR I HAVE PICTURED AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS THREAD!!! Its being sold on Ebay for $180.00 Its poorly made. I bought it just to save myself a BUCK. BIG MISTAKE. |
Originally Posted by MrClark
(Post 350177)
Would you guys believe I've been to 5 radiator repair shops this past week only to be told by all of them "nobody fixes radiators anymore we only replace them". Now these are shops who advertise radiator repairs. If it wasn't for this winter weather I would've made the attempt myself, to fix my radiator. Also Please pass this Warning on
DO NOT BUY THE ALUMINUM RADIATOR I HAVE PICTURED AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS THREAD!!! Its being sold on Ebay for $180.00 Its poorly made. I bought it just to save myself a BUCK. BIG MISTAKE. My h3 had radiator replaced 2 years ago just with an oem one. I was thinking of getting a trans cooler too and alum radiator but maybe just the trans cooler instead. |
You tried radiator shops and they failed you. Did you try a welding shop? Aluminum is tricky to weld and it takes some skill. You might not get it fixed and, if you do, you may have other issues with the rad leaking later. A friend of mine had the front horn of his NSX welded on without any problems, but it's made from aircraft aluminum.
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this radiator is not original
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[QUOTE=hichamaziz;350309]this radiator is not original.
Of course its not original its after market. Whats your point? |
RADIATOR UPDATE
You guys gotta hear this. I froze my rear end taking off my radiator and I took it today to a radiator repair shop I found online.Here is the kicker.....The man put his corks on and he placed the radiator in his water tank while pumping air into the rad. NO BUBBLES WHAT SO EVER!!! Now when I walked into the shop the radiator had the dry Orange dex-cool stain. He told me there is no leak and more than likely my leak was very minimal only when the radiator was HOT and expanding. I should go buy a new radiator because the minimal leak would've gotten worse anyway. I finally asked him can you repair my radiator his answer was.......I wouldn't know where to start. Put the radiator back on and let the leak get worse.. Do You believe this??? With my luck my radiator will burst open and leave me stranded. |
Originally Posted by MrClark
(Post 350718)
RADIATOR UPDATE
You guys gotta hear this. I froze my rear end taking off my radiator and I took it today to a radiator repair shop I found online.Here is the kicker.....The man put his corks on and he placed the radiator in his water tank while pumping air into the rad. NO BUBBLES WHAT SO EVER!!! Now when I walked into the shop the radiator had the dry Orange dex-cool stain. He told me there is no leak and more than likely my leak was very minimal only when the radiator was HOT and expanding. I should go buy a new radiator because the minimal leak would've gotten worse anyway. I finally asked him can you repair my radiator his answer was.......I wouldn't know where to start. Put the radiator back on and let the leak get worse.. Do You believe this??? With my luck my radiator will burst open and leave me stranded. |
[QUOTE=hummer_on_fumes;350728]You should try to get your money back from the eBay seller. Some of the made in China parts are garbage, it is hit or miss. If your heart is stuck on an all aluminum you could get the CFS branded one. Otherwise I'd go OEM and install the separate trans cooler. Even if the OEM one has its plastic crack from the pressure points it should last a long time.
I have really bad luck with plastic tanks in general. I went with aluminum for durability. I guess I was wrong I went thru the OEM and an AC/Delco plastic tank rads prior. What can a person do after the warranty expires. And no matter how much a person spends on any radiator your only going to get a 1year guarantee. That goes for CSF,A/C Delco, Griffin, Or any other radiator on the market today. |
csf has some install requirements for warrantee.check it out.
the rad looks good,! sitting in my dining room... |
Well enough is enough. I had a problem with an ebay seller who after taking my money,Told me he was out of plastic radiators stock. Duh! So instead of waiting
until the late spring I scraped up a few dollars and I bought a new CSF aluminum radiator. Wish me luck....lolhttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...1eb209164f.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...3308167f43.jpg |
Good luck with CFS aluminum radiators. Between my buddy and I 6 out of 7 have leaked.
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Originally Posted by TAINTER
(Post 351092)
Good luck with CAR aluminum radiators. Between my buddy and I 6 out of 7 have leaked.
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Originally Posted by Broken Halo
(Post 351093)
What are the 'CAR' aluminum radiators you're referring to. Want to make sure I don't buy one.:confused:
My first CSF leaked after about 2 months. They replaced it for free, just had to get the serial number off the bottom back of the radiator and send a pic of the leak. My vendor said CSF had an issue with their early H3 radiators???? My second one has had no issues. My first one has been fixed locally and ready for my next H3. So MrClark, before you install it, take a good pic of the serial number (bottom rear of the radiator) just in case you have to do a replacement. |
OHHH.....radiators FOR A CAR.....I thought he was referring to some brand I hadn't heard of......DUUUUH...:D
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[QUOTE=Doc Olds;351096]Radiators for a CAR? Luckily not the H3. :D
My first CSF leaked after about 2 months. They replaced it for free, just had to get the serial number off the bottom back of the radiator and send a pic of the leak. My vendor said CSF had an issue with their early H3 radiators???? My second one has had no issues. My first one has been fixed locally and ready for my next H3. So MrClark, before you install it, take a good pic of the serial number (bottom rear of the radiator) just in case you have to do a replacement Oh my God, Oh my God, Oh my God!!!...lol I installed it this morning with out a thought of taking a picture of the serial number. But if it leaks I still have to take it out anyway. But thanks Doc for the info. |
Originally Posted by Broken Halo
(Post 351093)
What are the 'CAR' aluminum radiators you're referring to. Want to make sure I don't buy one.:confused:
Originally Posted by Doc Olds
(Post 351096)
Radiators for a CAR? Luckily not the H3. :D
My first CSF leaked after about 2 months. They replaced it for free, just had to get the serial number off the bottom back of the radiator and send a pic of the leak. My vendor said CSF had an issue with their early H3 radiators???? My second one has had no issues. My first one has been fixed locally and ready for my next H3. So MrClark, before you install it, take a good pic of the serial number (bottom rear of the radiator) just in case you have to do a replacement.
Originally Posted by Broken Halo
(Post 351101)
OHHH.....radiators FOR A CAR.....I thought he was referring to some brand I hadn't heard of......DUUUUH...:D
Originally Posted by Doc Olds
(Post 351096)
Radiators for a CAR? Luckily not the H3. :D
My first CSF leaked after about 2 months. They replaced it for free, just had to get the serial number off the bottom back of the radiator and send a pic of the leak. My vendor said CSF had an issue with their early H3 radiators???? My second one has had no issues. My first one has been fixed locally and ready for my next H3. So MrClark, before you install it, take a good pic of the serial number (bottom rear of the radiator) just in case you have to do a replacement Oh my God, Oh my God, Oh my God!!!...lol I installed it this morning with out a thought of taking a picture of the serial number. But if it leaks I still have to take it out anyway. But thanks Doc for the info. Buddy (CB) bought 2, 2 failed within 4-5 months, they sent 2 new ones, 1 more failed within 4 months, the other in about a year. 2 more replacements, 1 leaker and 1 not (as of yet). ALL started as a smell but no coolant, then small leak then a puddle. I have one in the garage now that I had tested before installing and it has a leak. Currently waiting for a replacement or a refund. |
[QUOTE=TAINTER;351111]
Originally Posted by MrClark
(Post 351103)
Buddy (CB) bought 2, 2 failed within 4-5 months, they sent 2 new ones, 1 more failed within 4 months, the other in about a year. 2 more replacements, 1 leaker and 1 not (as of yet). ALL started as a smell but no coolant, then small leak then a puddle. I have one in the garage now that I had tested before installing and it has a leak. Currently waiting for a replacement or a refund. |
oh no!!
just got one for a jeep...
how to test first huh?? |
[QUOTE=Broken Halo;351117]
Originally Posted by TAINTER
(Post 351111)
WOW! I figured CSF would be the 'go to' radiator if/when mine bites the dust. Now what?! :eek::( |
I went with a griffin radiator. Its double the thickness of the RD radiator (helps with the hot summers). Doesn't have a trans cooler inside it though (I have an external trans cooler for that).
on a 70* winter day I had my coolant temps drop to 160* on the highway (I have a 160* t-stat). Trans temps were 120* (too cool) |
Finally my new radiator is in, The only problem with the install was the damn shroud it was a major pain.
but I got it in. as far as temperature its the same as the OEM radiator. My next move, when the weather gets warmer Is to install an Efan and a tranny cooler. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...c675630134.jpg |
(I have a 160* t-stat). |
Originally Posted by Doc Olds
(Post 351096)
Radiators for a CAR? Luckily not the H3. :D
My first CSF leaked after about 2 months. They replaced it for free, just had to get the serial number off the bottom back of the radiator and send a pic of the leak. My vendor said CSF had an issue with their early H3 radiators???? My second one has had no issues. My first one has been fixed locally and ready for my next H3. So MrClark, before you install it, take a good pic of the serial number (bottom rear of the radiator) just in case you have to do a replacement. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...03e1d8f56e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...dfaeb30b29.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...82e519e9d2.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...6c995aabaa.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...3283ae1039.jpg |
Originally Posted by MrClark
(Post 355649)
Hey Doc 7 months later and I sprung a leak. Now heres the worst part there is no serial number on my radiator
Your original receipt should be good enough, I would think. |
Keep us updated on this I have one I need to warranty soon and im sure the second one wont be far behind
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Every one of them has a serial number on a sticker located on the lower tank near the bottom facing the engine when installed. You have to pull back the rubber flapper seal to see it.
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So I bought this radiator on Ebay back in march its still under warranty. I got in touch with the seller......I sent him my leak pictures, he emails me back with" GET THIS"
I spoke to my distributor he tells me you should deal directly with CSF about the warranty issue.....I replied back I don't have to call CSF I bought the radiator from YOU!... So I called CSF and I emailed the leak pictures to their customer service.....They sent me an email and told me due to the fact that I did not purchase the radiator directly from CSF They cannot honor the warranty and I must deal directly with the Ebay seller......So I emailed the seller and I told him I don't have time to play this game of you pointing your finger at CSF and they're pointing they're finger at you I bought this radiator from you!!! I need YOU to handle this Today.....He emailed me back and told me that he is not pointing any finger at anybody and that he's dealing not only with me but with CSF and his distributor.......I replied that's your problem your the seller and I'm filing a complaint with Ebay, PayPal and my credit card against you......My credit card issued me a credit while they go after this guy.....and now I gotta buy yet another radiator. |
Latest update.......while the eBay seller and CSF point fingers at each other I bought this plastic tanked
foreign made radiator to get by on. WISH ME LUCK!!! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...8ef3a1881f.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...c5ce72e01c.jpg |
They repair aluminum radiators all the time. Should be no problem, especially if you have already found the leak and have the radiator removed form the vehicle. Try another repair shop, not necessarily a radiator shop but a weld and fabrication shop. The radiator guy may want to sell you a new one more than fix your existing one.
Also, I've actually had some success repairing the plastic tanks on the newer radiators using Marine Tex epoxy. They say JB Weld may also work but I haven't tried that. Half the time the Marine Tex has held up. The problem there is any epoxy you use does not have the same thermal expansion and contraction properties as the plastic tank and ultimately after a year or so it may start to leak again. You may also want to consider putting some thin A/C line foam rubber between the radiator top tank and the front wall. I did this to mine and haven't had any radiator problems in 80K miles. This is typically where the plastic radiators fail because the center mount provides just enough movement for the tank to rub against the front wall seam when you hit any kind of road bumps. |
Originally Posted by Doc Olds
(Post 355664)
Every one of them has a serial number on a sticker located on the lower tank near the bottom facing the engine when installed. You have to pull back the rubber flapper seal to see it.
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