Spec ohm rating on a lq4 2004 hummer h2
Anytime know?
i purchased some denso 234-4669 and 234-4651. They spec at 15 ohms. I'm currently buying some acdelco 213-1161 and 213-3867 cuz I hear from Amazon reviews that the denso I purchased may not work correctly in a 2004 2500 Silverado with the same lq4. I checked the o2 sensors in replacing and only one was about 14 ohms. so I'd like to check the o2 sensors know the specs if anyone knows. Also if anyone is interested if you buy on Amazon the vident ilink400 specifically for gm it can do a crank relearn...at least it did on my 2004 Hummer. Just be sure to follow the instructions on the screen exactly. |
RockAuto site shows your parts as follows:-
ACD 2131161 = Upstream; PRE CONVERTER Denso 2344669 = Upstream ACD 2133867 = Downstream; POST CONVERTER (DOWNSTREAM); MATES WITH CONNECTOR PT1373 Desno 2344651 = Downstream The specs/descriptions may help. I fitted Bosch when I repaired my CATs and they worked just fine. Not sure how relevant the "ohmic" value is, the sensors produce a voltage based on oxygen flow, this is hard to test ( Can your vident ilink400 display the O2 sensor readings? |
the only part of the sensor you can test resistance on is the heater part of the sensor. the sensor half of the sensor produces a voltage like oceanbrave mentions.
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yes I'm trying to find out the standing resistance of the two same color wires. Google says 2 to 14 in general. I'm going for specific.
The vident can test voltage and reset the o2 sensors on the pcm side from what I can tell. The banks in general graph within the 10 speak so they seem to be working mostly fine except the h2 is still getting the p0300 and p0135 code. The voltage on bank 1 sensor 1 is very sporadic when at idle. Each machanic Talk to says to revert everything back to acdelco... I'm new to Hummers and didn't realize how finicky they are about aftermarket parts... Kinda surprising given what they are suppose to signify. |
Shugoki as bronxteck mentions, seems your're measuring the "heater" resistance, this translates to the amount of "heat" (Vē/R) the sensor generates internally. The ohms may differ slightly between manufacturers, but I'm not sure this holds any significance, what do you think it's relevance is?
Also not sure how P0300 (Engine Misfire) or P0135 (Crankshaft Position not learned) relate to the oxygen sensor? Perhaps other members will help on this? Perhaps the vident crank re-learn didn't work? ACD stuff is good, but as mentioned BOSCH sensors also work fine. |
Originally Posted by oceanbrave
(Post 376287)
Shugoki as bronxteck mentions, seems your're measuring the "heater" resistance, this translates to the amount of "heat" (Vē/R) the sensor generates internally. The ohms may differ slightly between manufacturers, but I'm not sure this holds any significance, what do you think it's relevance is?
Also not sure how P0300 (Engine Misfire) or P0135 (Crankshaft Position not learned) relate to the oxygen sensor? Perhaps other members will help on this? Perhaps the vident crank re-learn didn't work? ACD stuff is good, but as mentioned BOSCH sensors also work fine. |
Originally Posted by Shugoki
(Post 376351)
During my refitting due to using generic parts and a bluedrive that didn't show me p0135 I had to change out many i parts. Along the way I needed to do a sensor relearn which I didn't want to spend the money on going to a dealer or purchase a tech 2...or a fake tech 2 Chinese version. So I got very fortunate in my finding of the vident. I've read a lot if discussions of people having the same issue so I'd thought I'd share my fortunate find. It really has nothing to do with the current problem except the new scanner let me know the there was a problem and the blue driver did not nor can it do a crank relearn.
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Shugoki (にほんごができますか?) I'm sure you are not an idiot:)
Everyone here will do their best to help you resolove your issues, our comments are suggestions, not debates. I doubt if anyone will say it's definitely "this" problem or "that" part etc. for as you know solutions can be complicated. By the way, the clone Tech2 is the same and as good as the original and as far as I know the only diagnostic tool that can do everything such as re-programming. Members will have many different skills, so I'm sure if you have a specific problem or question someone will help... fire away |
i disassembled my clone and i was surprised to see superb quality of it. it was either original manufacturer design or maybe even better. it even had gold plating on the internals there connectors and pins. the only thing that needed work where the cable end adapters as those where only tin plated and needed a bit of dielectric grease to get them to feel smooth and not bind and fully lock into the cable end.
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Originally Posted by bronxteck
(Post 376393)
i disassembled my clone and i was surprised to see superb quality of it. it was either original manufacturer design or maybe even better. it even had gold plating on the internals there connectors and pins. the only thing that needed work where the cable end adapters as those where only tin plated and needed a bit of dielectric grease to get them to feel smooth and not bind and fully lock into the cable end.
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