Snaping Blend Doors!!!
 

I'm Honestly lost for words on this one, So here's the issue had no ac for a while due to a broken blend door after taking out the whole Hvac Assembly to fix this finding both doors for the passenger side and driver side mix doors broken... strange huh, thought nothing of it swapped them out with new ones as well as the Actuators for them, got everything back together did the calibration had ac for a second then snap vents started blowing hot again checked the doors and they were broken again, checking the actuators for the doors they were all the way against the stops, changing the temp on module didn't move either actuators as I had the dash apart to see the shafts moved, so I replaced the hvac control module replacing this fixed my recirculation door started working again (Wasn't Before) , after replacing the doors again and resetting the actuators as its doing the calibration SNAP the doors broken again, not sure where to go from here Didn't find any TSBs on this rather not take it to the dealer, any idea on why this keeps happening?

Are you sure you are re-setting them correctly? There are a few links on this site that tell you how to do it. Also, when you replaced the a/c module, did you set it for your specific year truck? There is a calibration procedure for that too. I had similiar issues when I replaced my module.

Tim

I believe so i reset the actuators to there middle position with a power supply then attached them back to the hvac assembly plugged in the harness and did the calibration also control module was programed correctly for a 2003 H2, after the calibration was completed i moved the dials between hot and cold to see if the actuator shafts were moving correctly, but they were reluctant to stay in the full hot position also noticed that they went to this position during the calibration and stayed there .

Are you sure you used the right ones ones in the right places? There are ones that are more basic while others provide feedback regarding their position (if I remember right some are 3 pin and some are 5 or 6 pin but all use the exact same connector and appear identical). The positioning sensor in some of them uses a 5v reference from the PCM so if you bench tested one and put 12v to the sensor you likely fried the sensor - not saying you did but that it is possible to do. Also if the wrong type is used they will break (non-feedback type in a feedback required location) in one scenario. You can use the feedback type in all positions but they do cost more. Also the cheapest generic ones from eBay, Amazon, etc are junk.

The H2 calls for 3 different part numbers for the actuators.
This shows the three different parts https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...n/09/tn09-012/
Items #5 (two of them), 40, and 41. 41 is a different part number than the other 3.

Edit to add - also official GM recalibration instructions are attached.... Also note - the actuators must always be in their center position, and then mounted, BEFORE plugging them in. Note on that also attached...

i would double check each modules location and part number just in case there is a difference in the amount of travel between them. or maybe there is an obstruction in the doors paths like debris or maybe a limit stop or case warpage your not accounting for. try cycle it manually if possible before putting the modules on to feel for binding or friction.

The difference in part numbers does seem suspect I will double check my part numbers to verify, and cycling the doors manually was done to check for binding prior to mounting the actuators back on and after fowling the OEM service manual I Have on hand for the Recalibration Procedure the actuators moved from center position sweeping to hot position limits for actuator and instead of sweeping back they stay where they are.

Isn't there stop limits in the Hvac Module programing reading the potentiometers in the actuators so they stop at certain point ? and not reach the mechanical stops in the Actuators or does in use the full range during calibration? if that makes any Sense

According to the wiring diagram the actuators are 5 pin, and yes I cheeped out on the ones from amazon there are not the best quality, but I also have the OEM AC/Delco (Need to verify there the right ones) ones but they do the same thing during calibration and stop at full hot position and not sweep back for calibrating full range whatever the specified range is (Can not seem to find what theses values should be to accurately test inputs/ outputs) to start eliminating possibly issues/ concerns.

Thanks! For all the information Thus Far I Greatly appreciate it.

I copied this from a member on this site, this is how I reset mine:

pull the negative lead from the battery (or the fuse) and let it sit for awhile, then reconnect power, the system will perform a travel limit adjustment test.
Some people may have connected the actuator to the harness without installing it, wanting to watch it during this self test - and then read that this can ruin your actuator! Do not panic, your actuator is not damaged. You will want to re-center the actuator before installing it though, so just re-start the self test (pull the battery or fuse, wait awhile, reconnect the battery or fuse, and then turn the key to the ACC position). In the middle of the test (when the actuator is centered), just turn the key off and the test stops. Now you have an actuator that is centered and ready to install.

Tim

Even the GM eSI system does not show the values.... just that it is a 5V reference which like other sensors would mean between 0-5v on the sensor wires. Not sure but a Tech2 might show the actual values. I have one but I'd need to connect it and see if it shows anything. I do know some modules are specific to the H2 only like the drivers door module and one from a GM truck that is identical cannot be reprogrammed to work with an H2 either (certain modules are write once and locked). Wish I had a better answer. I also bought some of the cheapo ones and internally they are definitely inferior quality.