anyone want to measure the voltage output of the generator on their H2 and tell me what it is? I'm reading right at 14VDC at 2500 RPM, but if i'm reading the manual correctly it should be closer to 15.5. had to jump start it today, first time since i bought it. nothing left on, no frayed wiring on any of the stuff that i've added, that i could see. any help would be appreciated.

 

Your alternator could be going. If you get it packed with mud and off road gime and it never gets cleaned out, it could cause the contacts to wear out.

 

it looked relatively clean (for my engine compartment, not dennis's), i could see the coils inside it, so it's not packed. i haven't been in mud for quite a while, and the last trip to the dunes didn't involve any salt water. i'm not ruling out a toasted alternator, but was hoping someone could tell me what their's is putting out so i have something to judge by.

 

Well, Dennis would be the best to talk to about this, but the volts should remain constant reguardless of the RPM, assuming the voltage regulator is working properly. 14VDC should be right, because the battery is a 12VDC, which is actually closer to 13VDC when fully charged. What you are low on is amps. I would recommend puting a load tester on it to see if it put out the proper amount of amps. Your local Schucks/ Checker/ Kragen autoparts should be able to test it for you for free, although I believe you have to take it off to bring it in.

 

i can test mine tomorrow morning, shortie.

wehre do i put the leads? on the batt?

 

i checked at the battery and at the output of the alternator. the battery was reading 13.8 and the alternator connector was 14. you have to slide off the boot on the cable on the back of the alternator to get to the connector.

once i got it started, it ran fine. drove it around the neighborhood for a while, when i got back it started right up again. i'm going to let it sit overnight to see what happens in the morning. i haven't added any electronics lately, but i did find some corrosion in the rear winch cable connector. i disconnected the winch from the front connector (had to remove it to open the hood anyway). next step will be to put an ammeter in line to see if there's any current draw when the truck is off and just start disconnecting stuff.

 

well let me nkow if you want me to check anything.

otherwise i'm going to continue drinking. ironically, a pal of mine also has a white H2 and is hanging here this evening. he's almost as demented as i am.

 

I'm not much of a lectricity expert..but I give you my thoughts..

Linus is right on ..The alternator is fine if you're reading 14Vdc at the Battery's terminals..This is called the FLOAT CHARGE or FLOAT VOLTAGE...and should remain fairly constant no matter what the RPM is above Idle..At Idle, it could go down to 13.5Vdc and still be just fine...My first place of correction would be to remove and clean both battery terminals and tightly secure them again, smear a little vasoline on them to help protect from oxidation. next, check the (-) leads connection to the frame..Unbolt it and clean the rust and crap you may obviously accumulated from your coyote travels...Next if the problem still persists, replace the Battery...That's it, simple and sweet.

 

battery terminals are clean, but i didn't check the grounding to the frame. there's a good chance it could use a good cleaning, maybe i'll fire up the sandblaster later today . . . . the bus started right up this morning, so maybe i'm in luck.

 

..You actually know this or you are just looking at them?...There could be a film of lead oxide in between the terminal post ant the cable connector...The only way to be sure, is to remove the battery cable ends and use one of those wire brush like battery terminal cleaners on both the female and male parts[:@], then you'll be sure they're clean.