How to Replace Manifold Bolts with Ease
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 367
From: Austin, Texas
Thanks. I ordered the bolts first so I can get an idea of what kind of jig I might want to make in case I have to do precision drilling. I understand from above that the template and other parts resolve this issue, but I want to get the unknown issue (how far to drill if necessary and how to ensure a drill depth stop) out of the way. I was eyeing the inside fender covers, and I realize that will allow me to access a lot of what I want to detail in the engine bay while I'm at it. I just ordered an induction heat bolt breaker and have some bolts in my bed I will break free first. The flux weld kits are only $100, so going to practice with that also. I make precision parts for marine sport on my 3D resin printer and have made custom tools, so patience and precision are already in play. If I come up with anything unique for this thread I will post it.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 58
From: Mojave Desert
Recently did the heads, lifters, push rods, trunions, timing chain and oil pump on my 2003 H2 that had never had the exhaust manifolds removed. Heated each bolt with a pencil torch, followed by penetrating oil and each one came out just fine. Unscrew half a turn, tighten one quarter turn, unscrew another half turn, and so forth. Now why did GM put loctite on those, but not on the valley cover plate? Six of the bolts on the cover plate or not even finger tight!
I put studs back, its a little snug getting the heads back on in the car with the header still bolted to the exhaust but after you wedge them in it stays
Now its way safer to retorque them as leaks generate because A: studs and B: hardened aircraft grade hardware...
You can look them up on ebay
You want the ones with the center bulge where they bolt into the block
The ones that are fully threaded are too short with a cast manifold but theyre probably nice with a thin header flange
Get locking shoulder stainless flange nuts the ones provided are zinc plated
With stainless lock nuts on hardened studs all assembled with copper anti seize nothing is going to end up stuck in the block or broken off, but you do have to retorque them occasionally they will slowly back off
Banned
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 58
From: Mojave Desert
Because they walk themselves out as the manifold heats and shrinks
I put studs back, its a little snug getting the heads back on in the car with the header still bolted to the exhaust but after you wedge them in it stays
Now its way safer to retorque them as leaks generate because A: studs and B: hardened aircraft grade hardware...
You can look them up on ebay
You want the ones with the center bulge where they bolt into the block
The ones that are fully threaded are too short with a cast manifold but theyre probably nice with a thin header flange
Get locking shoulder stainless flange nuts the ones provided are zinc plated
With stainless lock nuts on hardened studs all assembled with copper anti seize nothing is going to end up stuck in the block or broken off, but you do have to retorque them occasionally they will slowly back off
I put studs back, its a little snug getting the heads back on in the car with the header still bolted to the exhaust but after you wedge them in it stays
Now its way safer to retorque them as leaks generate because A: studs and B: hardened aircraft grade hardware...
You can look them up on ebay
You want the ones with the center bulge where they bolt into the block
The ones that are fully threaded are too short with a cast manifold but theyre probably nice with a thin header flange
Get locking shoulder stainless flange nuts the ones provided are zinc plated
With stainless lock nuts on hardened studs all assembled with copper anti seize nothing is going to end up stuck in the block or broken off, but you do have to retorque them occasionally they will slowly back off
To clarify: by "once you get them back in it stays" i mean that after you wedge the headers, spring loaded by the muffler pipe theyre on, past the studs, they snap into place on the studs and now you arent fighting hole alignment with said spring loaded header fighting you, blind from a profile/perpendicular viewpoint, while you cross thread fiddly little bolts and junk your heads
👍
Banned
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 58
From: Mojave Desert
Because they walk themselves out as the manifold heats and shrinks
I put studs back, its a little snug getting the heads back on in the car with the header still bolted to the exhaust but after you wedge them in it stays
Now its way safer to retorque them as leaks generate because A: studs and B: hardened aircraft grade hardware...
You can look them up on ebay
You want the ones with the center bulge where they bolt into the block
The ones that are fully threaded are too short with a cast manifold but theyre probably nice with a thin header flange
Get locking shoulder stainless flange nuts the ones provided are zinc plated
With stainless lock nuts on hardened studs all assembled with copper anti seize nothing is going to end up stuck in the block or broken off, but you do have to retorque them occasionally they will slowly back off
I put studs back, its a little snug getting the heads back on in the car with the header still bolted to the exhaust but after you wedge them in it stays
Now its way safer to retorque them as leaks generate because A: studs and B: hardened aircraft grade hardware...
You can look them up on ebay
You want the ones with the center bulge where they bolt into the block
The ones that are fully threaded are too short with a cast manifold but theyre probably nice with a thin header flange
Get locking shoulder stainless flange nuts the ones provided are zinc plated
With stainless lock nuts on hardened studs all assembled with copper anti seize nothing is going to end up stuck in the block or broken off, but you do have to retorque them occasionally they will slowly back off
To clarify: by "once you get them back in it stays" i mean that after you wedge the headers, spring loaded by the muffler pipe theyre on, past the studs, they snap into place on the studs and now you arent fighting hole alignment with said spring loaded header fighting you, blind from a profile/perpendicular viewpoint, while you cross thread fiddly little bolts and junk your heads
👍
👍
Okay, boss... Let me know how that goes, using machine threads in aluminum like a spud wrench on structural steel 🤣
Banned
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 58
From: Mojave Desert
I made a multitude of posts in here about swapping to hardened studs with stainless nuts and none of it is visible what gives?
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