H2 Stereo Install help
#1
H2 Stereo Install help
So I finally got my parts for my stereo and I was wondering if anyone knows a way to make it easier than the splice and solder.
I am looking to literally remove everything from the H2 and then put in new components.
But I understand that I could get away with keeping the wiring harness to send signals to the amps.
So I would like to know if there is a really good harness adapter for my Pioneer that will allow me to use the stock wiring harness and also possibly maintain the steering wheel controls.
Thanks
I am looking to literally remove everything from the H2 and then put in new components.
But I understand that I could get away with keeping the wiring harness to send signals to the amps.
So I would like to know if there is a really good harness adapter for my Pioneer that will allow me to use the stock wiring harness and also possibly maintain the steering wheel controls.
Thanks
#2
Steering wheel controls you just get an adapter for that. I think the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 is probably the most popular for that.
Standard harness plug adapter are not going to work properly if you are planning on removing and/or bypassing the stock amplifier under the console. The standard adapters also provide for the chime system to still work as that is part of the factory head unit and uses the factory amplifier to make the chime sounds through the front speakers. The same is true for the Onstar system functionality. So if you want to retain either of those I'm not sure what would be involved if you are planning to either remove or not use the factory amplifier.
I think if you are bypassing or removing the stock amp than you will be facing a lot of cutting and soldering (preferred over butt splice crimp connectors) no matter what you do.
Crimp connectors can be good and are fine though IF you get quality connectors and they are properly crimped. Auto part store brand and other cheap no-name crimp connectors are generally weak garbage. Good quality 3M ones do cost a good bit more but the metal where it actually crimps is far stronger. I've seen plenty of auto part store ones that the internal metal ring is so weak that you can literally just pull the wire right back out without much force at all after crimping them. Avoid any sort of vampire style connectors like scotch-locks. Those severely damage the wires they are tying in to and cause a major reduction in current carrying capacity of the wires and if subject to much movement will literally break the wires. Quality electrical work that will last and not have any problems required proper soldering and/or crimping with quality connectors and crimpers.
Standard harness plug adapter are not going to work properly if you are planning on removing and/or bypassing the stock amplifier under the console. The standard adapters also provide for the chime system to still work as that is part of the factory head unit and uses the factory amplifier to make the chime sounds through the front speakers. The same is true for the Onstar system functionality. So if you want to retain either of those I'm not sure what would be involved if you are planning to either remove or not use the factory amplifier.
I think if you are bypassing or removing the stock amp than you will be facing a lot of cutting and soldering (preferred over butt splice crimp connectors) no matter what you do.
Crimp connectors can be good and are fine though IF you get quality connectors and they are properly crimped. Auto part store brand and other cheap no-name crimp connectors are generally weak garbage. Good quality 3M ones do cost a good bit more but the metal where it actually crimps is far stronger. I've seen plenty of auto part store ones that the internal metal ring is so weak that you can literally just pull the wire right back out without much force at all after crimping them. Avoid any sort of vampire style connectors like scotch-locks. Those severely damage the wires they are tying in to and cause a major reduction in current carrying capacity of the wires and if subject to much movement will literally break the wires. Quality electrical work that will last and not have any problems required proper soldering and/or crimping with quality connectors and crimpers.
#3
Wheels button adapter as mixman said
in my case I removed the oem amp , cut wiring after identification and solder the new system
It is easier to keep the oem wiring going to speakes but then you need to bring all the wirirng from aftermarket amp to the center console where is soldered.
my aftermarket amp was installed under the rear seat
in other words
Rca from HU to amp .... new wiring from amp to the oem amp location to be soldered to the existing speaker wires
make sure to run a positive from battery with an inline fuse and right wire gage, if possible a ground is also a good
idea
careful when running the wire thru the firewall grommet. Under not circumstances drill thru the rubber grommet.
also make sure to run everything you may need in a future such as sub , backup camera , hdmi , etc
you want to remove the center console.and hu the less possible
btw what did you choose at the end ... Hu, amp ?
in my case I removed the oem amp , cut wiring after identification and solder the new system
It is easier to keep the oem wiring going to speakes but then you need to bring all the wirirng from aftermarket amp to the center console where is soldered.
my aftermarket amp was installed under the rear seat
in other words
Rca from HU to amp .... new wiring from amp to the oem amp location to be soldered to the existing speaker wires
make sure to run a positive from battery with an inline fuse and right wire gage, if possible a ground is also a good
idea
careful when running the wire thru the firewall grommet. Under not circumstances drill thru the rubber grommet.
also make sure to run everything you may need in a future such as sub , backup camera , hdmi , etc
you want to remove the center console.and hu the less possible
btw what did you choose at the end ... Hu, amp ?
Last edited by H2Miami; 01-27-2019 at 05:49 PM.
#4
Pioneer i went with this and i also included the rear seat entertainment connection and steering wheel package:
iDatalink - Maestro - Search
My installation is here:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-heavy-37399/
iDatalink - Maestro - Search
My installation is here:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-heavy-37399/
#5
Pioneer i went with this and i also included the rear seat entertainment connection and steering wheel package:
iDatalink - Maestro - Search
My installation is here:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-heavy-37399/
iDatalink - Maestro - Search
My installation is here:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-heavy-37399/
but the I guess Idatalink only works in newer years 08/09
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