H2 Passenger A/C Stuck on Heat
#11
03-22-2013, 03:58 PM
a/c front driver and rear stuck on heat
Could this be corrected without going to the dealership? No matter if I adjust the temperature to 90 or 60, it still blows hot on the driver side. About 4 months ago it started this problem. I could cycle the A/C and it would blow cold, now nothing works. Still blows cold. Since the driver side is hot the rear a/c blows hot too
#12
03-22-2013, 03:59 PM
2005 H2SUT Driver and Rear Passenger A/C Stuck on Heat
Could this be corrected without going to the dealership? No matter if I adjust the temperature to 90 or 60, it still blows hot on the driver side. About 4 months ago it started this problem. I could cycle the A/C and it would blow cold, now nothing works. Still blows cold. Since the driver side is hot the rear a/c blows hot too
#13
08-01-2014, 01:54 PM
HVAV drivers side stuck on heat
I ordered the Dorman #604-106 module for under $55 from Amazon to fix the DS A/C. But now I would like to find the parts diagram for the HVAC. Any idea where I can find one, or a source for all of the H2 parts diagrams?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#15
04-17-2016, 09:30 PM
Blend Door issues? Here are your answers!
OK, I just replaced 3 of the 4 blend door actuators in my 2003 H2. So, yes, I now know the part numbers and exact locations of these units.
1 - Defrost to vent actuator (cam mode actuator). This is located on the DRIVERS SIDE, just to the left of the steering column. This is the ONLY one there, so when you find it, that will be the one. Part #604-121. Autozone sells this for $65.99.
2 - Recirculation actuator. This is located about 12" away from the PASSENGER SIDE window post. It is the furthest most right of all actuators. It is located underneath the dash pad, but I believe you could get to it and replace it without the dash top removal. I replaced my dash top while replacing the actuators, so I could get to it easily. Part #604-106. Autozone sells this for $144.99.
3 - Driver side climate (temperature) control. This is located on the PASSENGER SIDE, underneath of the glove box, just to the right of the center console. It is the only actuator below the level of the glove box (all others are up high in the dash board area). Just remove the plastic under the glove box and there it will be. Part #604-106. Autozone sells this for $144.99.
4 - Passenger side climate (temperature) control. This is located on the PASSENGER SIDE, just below the dash board top, and to the right of the center console. You don't need remove the center console. You just need to remove the two bolts that hold it in place, and tip it backwards to gain access to the two bolts for the dash top. You must remove the complete dash top to get access to this actuator. It requires some patience to get this one out and back in! You will need to use a 8mm box wrench. Part #604-106. Autozone sells this for $144.99.
Notice that actuators 2,3, & 4 are all the same. The only one different is the defrost actuator.
I have now replaced all 4 actuators since owning this vehicle, 3 of which just this weekend!
When you pull the negative lead from the battery (or the fuse) and let it sit for awhile, then reconnect power, the system will perform a travel limit adjustment test. This means that all of the actuators will move to their limits, under load. If the load sensor in the actuator is bad (set with a pot inside of the actuator that can go bad) then the limit will exceed the safety point and the actuator will stop. It certainly is possible to fix these actuators, and I may look into making a thread about that. On the 4 that I have replaced, not a single stripped gear or other horror story I have heard occurred. I chatted with our local GM repair center and they also have never seen a stripped gear. It's always a pot (wiper) failure in the electronics.
Some people may have connected the actuator to the harness without installing it, wanting to watch it during this self test - and then read that this can ruin your actuator! Do not panic, your actuator is not damaged. You will want to re-center the actuator before installing it though, so just re-start the self test (pull the battery or fuse, wait awhile, reconnect the battery or fuse, and then turn the key to the ACC position). In the middle of the test (when the actuator is centered), just turn the key off and the test stops. Now you have an actuator that is centered and ready to install.
The cost to replace these with a dealer is insane. It's not difficult to do. If you have any questions, please ask them in the thread so that everyone might gain some knowledge here.
OK, I just replaced 3 of the 4 blend door actuators in my 2003 H2. So, yes, I now know the part numbers and exact locations of these units.
1 - Defrost to vent actuator (cam mode actuator). This is located on the DRIVERS SIDE, just to the left of the steering column. This is the ONLY one there, so when you find it, that will be the one. Part #604-121. Autozone sells this for $65.99.
2 - Recirculation actuator. This is located about 12" away from the PASSENGER SIDE window post. It is the furthest most right of all actuators. It is located underneath the dash pad, but I believe you could get to it and replace it without the dash top removal. I replaced my dash top while replacing the actuators, so I could get to it easily. Part #604-106. Autozone sells this for $144.99.
3 - Driver side climate (temperature) control. This is located on the PASSENGER SIDE, underneath of the glove box, just to the right of the center console. It is the only actuator below the level of the glove box (all others are up high in the dash board area). Just remove the plastic under the glove box and there it will be. Part #604-106. Autozone sells this for $144.99.
4 - Passenger side climate (temperature) control. This is located on the PASSENGER SIDE, just below the dash board top, and to the right of the center console. You don't need remove the center console. You just need to remove the two bolts that hold it in place, and tip it backwards to gain access to the two bolts for the dash top. You must remove the complete dash top to get access to this actuator. It requires some patience to get this one out and back in! You will need to use a 8mm box wrench. Part #604-106. Autozone sells this for $144.99.
Notice that actuators 2,3, & 4 are all the same. The only one different is the defrost actuator.
I have now replaced all 4 actuators since owning this vehicle, 3 of which just this weekend!
When you pull the negative lead from the battery (or the fuse) and let it sit for awhile, then reconnect power, the system will perform a travel limit adjustment test. This means that all of the actuators will move to their limits, under load. If the load sensor in the actuator is bad (set with a pot inside of the actuator that can go bad) then the limit will exceed the safety point and the actuator will stop. It certainly is possible to fix these actuators, and I may look into making a thread about that. On the 4 that I have replaced, not a single stripped gear or other horror story I have heard occurred. I chatted with our local GM repair center and they also have never seen a stripped gear. It's always a pot (wiper) failure in the electronics.
Some people may have connected the actuator to the harness without installing it, wanting to watch it during this self test - and then read that this can ruin your actuator! Do not panic, your actuator is not damaged. You will want to re-center the actuator before installing it though, so just re-start the self test (pull the battery or fuse, wait awhile, reconnect the battery or fuse, and then turn the key to the ACC position). In the middle of the test (when the actuator is centered), just turn the key off and the test stops. Now you have an actuator that is centered and ready to install.
The cost to replace these with a dealer is insane. It's not difficult to do. If you have any questions, please ask them in the thread so that everyone might gain some knowledge here.
Where I have gone through this before with other actuators and recall having problems getting them to function, this time I'm at wits end. With the actuator off but plugged in, it will cycle through like it's working just fine. I recenter it, put it on (the dual zone side for driver under glovebox bottom) then reconnect the battery to no avail. I have pulled the negative, both wires, let it sit for an hour at least a dozen times and still it blows hot on the driver side. I tested the old actuator by plugging it in and turning key on with it off the cradle and it barely turns then just stops, so I'm assuming that it is defective and not another issue. I think I'm just having problems getting the computer to recognize the replacement, any other ideas how to fix this out there?
TY
#16
12-19-2017, 08:03 AM
Hey yall, i have a question, i cant seem to find a link if there is a prior discussion. Please direct me if there is one!
My passenger side a/c in my 2003 H2 is stuck on hot heat. The fan blower does work from low to high blowing out air, but the temp is constant heat. The drivers/back work fine and can blow cold. But the passenger side only has hot air coming out. Please if anyone can help/steer me in the right direction, the Texas Heat is coming soon!
My passenger side a/c in my 2003 H2 is stuck on hot heat. The fan blower does work from low to high blowing out air, but the temp is constant heat. The drivers/back work fine and can blow cold. But the passenger side only has hot air coming out. Please if anyone can help/steer me in the right direction, the Texas Heat is coming soon!
#17
10-25-2019, 08:44 PM
Hi - I’ve replaced 3 of 4 actuators - tried fuse and battery reset options
even manually centered them with the 9 volt battery
It seems that my issues are:
- only blows out of main vents no matter what I select
- blows cold on driver side and hot on passenger side
Any other suggestions to try?
thank you
even manually centered them with the 9 volt battery
It seems that my issues are:
- only blows out of main vents no matter what I select
- blows cold on driver side and hot on passenger side
Any other suggestions to try?
thank you
#19
10-31-2019, 10:24 AM
I didn't get a chance to update my thread - so I changed the 4 actuator as well - even re-centered all of them and still no luck
Then I "borrowed" my wife's main control unit from her H2 and then it all worked - so I left the truck running and unplugged hers and plugged mine in and now it works just fine -
Its been working as it should for a few days now - kind of a weird fix, but I'll take it
Thank you for taking the time to post