Evap Pipe Supplier?
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,633
From: Birmingham (UK)
So far so good, the rig seems to be running smoothly, no leaks detected and engine warning light went without clearing.
The broken evap connector I managed to "hot-weld" to be as good as new (canister end) Note for future ref, its possible to remove the broken bit on it's own
The fuel-pump ends had a broken-off pieces of rusted pipe stuck in them. These came-out after a little penetrating oit and picking, of course they were flushed-out clean.
I used the hose but I'm not convinced about using water to wash-out the tank. The problem is getting the water and debris out. I'll explain why.
Water won't pour out the "filler" end because the lip inside (anti-syphoning?), similarly the fpm hole is not the lowest point when the tank is put on it's side or inverted. Yes water comes out, but the debris tends to stay inside, plus a few pints of water, so it doesn't seem to achieve very much.
The more effective way, I feel, is to tip the LHS of the tank and get the fluid+debiris to the filler-end segment only (this and the centre segment can be reached by hand) Then soak-up the excess fluid using a sponge and wipe then center and RH segments clean using lint-free micro-fiber cloths. I'm pretty confident there was zero debris inside, moreover it could all have been done with the residual fuel i.e. no water required. Yes I know, I've seen lots of YT videos where they wash-out the tank with soapy water, but the hummer has a BIG tank and its not easy to manage.
Looking at the fuel and evap connectors up-close, I could see to release them all you have to do is press the little "white collar" with your finger-tip (easy when you know) Note this wouldn't have worked at the fpm end as both connectors were filled with rust and seized solid. In the end you have to release the Evap cansiter and metal fuel line so I'd say start with these.
Instead of using a jack to support the tank I used ropes around the prop-shaft and chassis, bear in mind the wheels were only 12" up off the ground, still its enough. With the ropes the tank can be lowered gradually better stiil the tank can be rotated allowing easy access to the fpm connectors. For me ropes were better than supports.
I cleand-up and painted the rusted tank locking-lugs, but elected not to paint the fpm itself. Couple of reasons, the Evap and fuel pipes were rusted at the "locking flange" on mine, so I didn't want to risk painting over these and affecting the seal. There was also the warranty side of things should the pump fail. plus it too16 years for the old fpm to rot, I'll be in the old-folks home next time 16 years come around
A big thank-you to everyone who helped with this and good luck for those who follow with the similar issues.
ps
It turns-out many of my hummer in the UK have similar issues, brake lines too. It's only a matter of time !
The broken evap connector I managed to "hot-weld" to be as good as new (canister end) Note for future ref, its possible to remove the broken bit on it's own
The fuel-pump ends had a broken-off pieces of rusted pipe stuck in them. These came-out after a little penetrating oit and picking, of course they were flushed-out clean.
I used the hose but I'm not convinced about using water to wash-out the tank. The problem is getting the water and debris out. I'll explain why.
Water won't pour out the "filler" end because the lip inside (anti-syphoning?), similarly the fpm hole is not the lowest point when the tank is put on it's side or inverted. Yes water comes out, but the debris tends to stay inside, plus a few pints of water, so it doesn't seem to achieve very much.
The more effective way, I feel, is to tip the LHS of the tank and get the fluid+debiris to the filler-end segment only (this and the centre segment can be reached by hand) Then soak-up the excess fluid using a sponge and wipe then center and RH segments clean using lint-free micro-fiber cloths. I'm pretty confident there was zero debris inside, moreover it could all have been done with the residual fuel i.e. no water required. Yes I know, I've seen lots of YT videos where they wash-out the tank with soapy water, but the hummer has a BIG tank and its not easy to manage.
Looking at the fuel and evap connectors up-close, I could see to release them all you have to do is press the little "white collar" with your finger-tip (easy when you know) Note this wouldn't have worked at the fpm end as both connectors were filled with rust and seized solid. In the end you have to release the Evap cansiter and metal fuel line so I'd say start with these.
Instead of using a jack to support the tank I used ropes around the prop-shaft and chassis, bear in mind the wheels were only 12" up off the ground, still its enough. With the ropes the tank can be lowered gradually better stiil the tank can be rotated allowing easy access to the fpm connectors. For me ropes were better than supports.
I cleand-up and painted the rusted tank locking-lugs, but elected not to paint the fpm itself. Couple of reasons, the Evap and fuel pipes were rusted at the "locking flange" on mine, so I didn't want to risk painting over these and affecting the seal. There was also the warranty side of things should the pump fail. plus it too16 years for the old fpm to rot, I'll be in the old-folks home next time 16 years come around
A big thank-you to everyone who helped with this and good luck for those who follow with the similar issues.
ps
It turns-out many of my hummer in the UK have similar issues, brake lines too. It's only a matter of time !
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 59
Nice post!! I totally missed this thread. I am in the exact same situation. I removed tank and changed the Fuel Pump...I rust painted it, but i hope it works as i might get some trouble for warranty. I didn't think about that to be honest. I rinsed and shop-vac the inside of the tank after removing all that rust from the old fuel pump and lock rink. I used a rust converter and rust paint on the metal part of the tank where the new lock ring will attach. I hope there will be no leaks because one of my fuel connector lock seems more lose than it should be.
Anxious to put it all back but now waiting for for my new stainless brake lines which were ordered 8 days ago and still not here. Taking the time to do some cosmetic work to frame and bumpers, but weather is not co-operating.
Ordered the tensioner, pulley and new belts, but now wondering if I should order the water pump and do them all at the same time or just do what i have and wait for the water pump to die.
Have this H2 for only few weeks and have only driven it a couple of times, so really looking forward to getting it on the road again.
Anxious to put it all back but now waiting for for my new stainless brake lines which were ordered 8 days ago and still not here. Taking the time to do some cosmetic work to frame and bumpers, but weather is not co-operating.
Ordered the tensioner, pulley and new belts, but now wondering if I should order the water pump and do them all at the same time or just do what i have and wait for the water pump to die.
Have this H2 for only few weeks and have only driven it a couple of times, so really looking forward to getting it on the road again.
Last edited by mcu; Aug 10, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,907
From: C-Town
Btw, 2 additional things I did: clear coat spray the top of the FPM after installed, and clean, spray the tank straps. Nice work!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,907
From: C-Town
A pint a pound, the less pints, the easier to drop. The tank empty is very easy to manage.
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 59
