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Blower resistor bypass /running all the time?! HELP!!

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  #11  
Old 10-15-2015, 09:15 AM
honda400ex2003's Avatar
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did some testing last night in my drive way and ended up roasting another one...

going to take the controller head out and have that checked as well, may be a short somewhere as well as trouble with the blower.

the root cause was the blower motor failure, though, which has made me believe that there wasnt anything else really bad to begin with. the bearings finally went out in my blower, causing the resistor to overheat.

steve
 
  #12  
Old 10-22-2015, 08:20 PM
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Hopefully the last update. Had a messed up controller as well, had some stuff that was pretty burned inside of it as well which most likely caused the resistor failures after the initial fan going out.

Going to get it all back next week and install it again.

Steve
 

Last edited by honda400ex2003; 10-23-2015 at 08:14 AM.
  #13  
Old 10-23-2015, 08:13 AM
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What a pain. I hope that cures it for you. Do report back either way.
 
  #14  
Old 10-23-2015, 08:31 AM
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huge pain! this is the 3rd replacement resistor and now a controller.

i think that i got some water in it somehow and burned all of this stuff up... that is just my .02 though, you dont see stuff like that getting roasted easily in a car and both my subwoofer and my heater components quit working.

im not sure if it was the same time they that got cooked but i have had water on my floor on the drivers side numerous times, not sure where it comes from, cant replicate it either. i used to have water on my ceiling every now and again by my head on the drivers side but have got that to stop after cleaning the pillar and the marker lights on top. this thing sat under pine trees for quite a while from the previous owner so it had a lot of crap in all of the drains. im just not sure where all of the other drains may be or why it will do it one storm a year and not the others. i bring it back to how i park it, if it sits in an odd position where the water wont drain well, it leaks.

steve
 
  #15  
Old 10-23-2015, 10:28 PM
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Default Blower resistor

Your resistor module is actually a scr mounted to the aluminum heat sink. It is controlled via a signal from the HVAC control module. It gets real hot when on any speed but high. I have repaired several of these units.
The module must be attached back into the duct work to get a flow of air across the heat sink fins if it is expected to last at all.


Mike
 
  #16  
Old 10-27-2015, 12:46 PM
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good to know, i wont run anything unless it is hooked up fully. i got all of the new parts yesterday (other than a new sub that should be here tomorrow) to get it back together, heater wise. i will put the center console and such back together after i get the sub installed sometime next week.

steve
 
  #17  
Old 11-02-2015, 08:11 PM
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Well final verdict is that it looks to be fixed now finally.

To wrap up, rebuilt control unit by module repair pro in California. Resistor rebuilt by them as well. Geno is his name, great and helpful guy. Found him on eBay with s swap on the resistor the first time.

Sometime it will need a new air damper door, since that doesn't work well all the time. At least it started working again after I started moving haha.

I guess as much as I hope it is completely done, I blew one at about 50 miles on a trip after replacing so I can't say 200% that it is fixed yet. I'm tired of taking apart and putting together so hopefully im finally good.

Steve
 
  #18  
Old 02-09-2016, 01:23 PM
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Default 2006 H3 No Blower- NO POWER TO RESISTOR - NO FAN

Anyone have any ideas? I have checked all of the fuses and relays under the hood related to the HVAC ,AC and blower. All are good. Pulled the harness off the resistor and there appears to be no damage. The issue I see is there is no power to any of the wires going to the connector to the blower resistor. I am about out of things to check. Any help would be great.
 
  #19  
Old 02-09-2016, 01:39 PM
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If theres absolutely no power coming from the head unit to the resistor on any setting, i would venture to say that it is toast.

the full power (high fan speed) voltage should be almost 12v at the resistor, something in-between if you have a digital volt meter that will read digital voltage. My fluke meter was reading voltage at the power plug that goes to the resistor at any voltage, which is also incorrect. post #8 talks about the wires and what they should read.

id put money on the fact that your head controller unit is toast. pretty common thing to go bad on them according to what i was told. Module repair pro will rebuild it for you, otherwise you can find a new one possibly. if it is anything like the resistor, though, it is no longer made for direct oem replacement from hummer and is a little different than a tahoe or something. might be worth doing a swap if you have the time, money, and skills to do it. in your case though, if everything checks out except the controller, it is most likely bad.

steve
 
  #20  
Old 02-09-2016, 01:50 PM
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So you're thinking it is the actual three **** control unit in the dash then? You are correct, I have no power at all to the resistor. I just double checked it. Is there a way to diagnose the main controller?
 


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