Blend Door Actuator Replacement
#111
03-08-2015, 10:24 AM
The upper blend door actuator is on the same axle as the lower. You need to find out where the harmonics are coming from. I have a stethoscope with a rod on the end I use to pinpoint noises. If your resistor is bad check the wiring and plug that plugs into the resistor.
#112
03-25-2015, 01:28 PM
i hate taking so many things a part just to change that and also need the part number for the upper one ??????
Last edited by hmer; 03-25-2015 at 01:58 PM.
#113
03-26-2015, 05:43 AM
All the actuators are the same part number. I just replaced mine again 3 weeks ago. It is the same large white fear that has cracked. I searched and found a new gear out of a stronger material that you can just change the gear. I am researching it more now so when the time comes it may be the last time to change this. The amount of work please get the ACDelco 15-73620 part. I would not chance a cheap Chinese part failing. I bought my last one on Amazon for 36.93.
#115
05-13-2015, 02:41 PM
Passenger Blend Door - I can't find the one I need
OK so, blame the fact that I am a Girl! BUT I did change one of the Blend Doors by myself (it was just the wrong one :*( - the one I changed is the one that is above the glove department but right under the dash.
I have read these posts over and over again - and just can't figure it out!
The one I need to change, is the one at the center console, but I cannot find it. I have had my dash torn apart for two weeks now and cannot find a diagram to show me where it is.
When I turn the truck on - I can hear a light knocking sound above/around the stereo. So it has got to be there somewhere.
Hummer H2 2003
Change Battery
Driver Side is kinda cool - Passenger Side is 9000 Degrees!
I have read these posts over and over again - and just can't figure it out!
The one I need to change, is the one at the center console, but I cannot find it. I have had my dash torn apart for two weeks now and cannot find a diagram to show me where it is.
When I turn the truck on - I can hear a light knocking sound above/around the stereo. So it has got to be there somewhere.
Hummer H2 2003
Change Battery
Driver Side is kinda cool - Passenger Side is 9000 Degrees!
#117
07-08-2015, 10:20 AM
All good advice, perhaps I can add just a bit.
Same problem, hot air drivers side. Looks to me that drivers side problem is the most common probably because of the location of the valve...above the passengers foot.
Easy removal using 8mm socket, 2 on shroud, 2 on blend valve. There are three small phillips screws holding the blend valve together, remove them. The unit splits and reveals a small motor and an array of gears all sitting atop a small printed circuit. Take a picture if you are unsure how it goes together and pull it completely apart. I used spray clean (electronics parts cleaner) on everything, even into the motor and then re assembled. Index the output shaft to the center (marked on the outside of the case) and re install. Mine operates fine, my best guess is dust and aging grease..all resolved. Dont forget to pull the AC B fuse, under the hood box, marked HVAC/ECAS 10 amp...for a few minutes to allow for re programming of the controller. Switch ignition to run for 40-60 seconds to complete the task.
Should you choose not to repair the valve, they can be purchased thru Amazon for 35.00...far cry from several hundred.
Good Luck!
Same problem, hot air drivers side. Looks to me that drivers side problem is the most common probably because of the location of the valve...above the passengers foot.
Easy removal using 8mm socket, 2 on shroud, 2 on blend valve. There are three small phillips screws holding the blend valve together, remove them. The unit splits and reveals a small motor and an array of gears all sitting atop a small printed circuit. Take a picture if you are unsure how it goes together and pull it completely apart. I used spray clean (electronics parts cleaner) on everything, even into the motor and then re assembled. Index the output shaft to the center (marked on the outside of the case) and re install. Mine operates fine, my best guess is dust and aging grease..all resolved. Dont forget to pull the AC B fuse, under the hood box, marked HVAC/ECAS 10 amp...for a few minutes to allow for re programming of the controller. Switch ignition to run for 40-60 seconds to complete the task.
Should you choose not to repair the valve, they can be purchased thru Amazon for 35.00...far cry from several hundred.
Good Luck!
#118
07-18-2015, 05:58 PM
Thanks!
Hi All-
I just had the same issue (Passenger side blowing hot air), so I changer the Passenger side Blend Door Actuator. Thanks to Indy and Jim's detailed instructions, I saved $1250.00! The dealer here wanted $1400.00. I picked up the part at O'reilly auto parts for $150.00, it took me about 3 hours. Be advised that Oreilly has it listed as Driver's side in their computer. We weren't sure which part it was, until I found Jim's part # (Ending in 106) in my notes. That pulled up the part right away.
To Note: I couldn't get my wrench on the screws for the unit at first, I thought I read here that I needed a 7mm wrench, the nuts were actually 8mm on mine.
Also, the tip I saw here about loosening the duct nuts in the center dash allowed me to get the unit out in 1-2 minutes, after I struggled with them for 1/2 hour . I just propped up the duct over the unit with a wood block, and I could get my whole hand in there.
I had everything back together in 10 minutes. If I had to do this again, it would be less than an hour.
I am new to this forum, and just want to thank everyone involved in this thread. I was schooling both the dealer and the guys at the auto parts stores with the info I found here!
I just had the same issue (Passenger side blowing hot air), so I changer the Passenger side Blend Door Actuator. Thanks to Indy and Jim's detailed instructions, I saved $1250.00! The dealer here wanted $1400.00. I picked up the part at O'reilly auto parts for $150.00, it took me about 3 hours. Be advised that Oreilly has it listed as Driver's side in their computer. We weren't sure which part it was, until I found Jim's part # (Ending in 106) in my notes. That pulled up the part right away.
To Note: I couldn't get my wrench on the screws for the unit at first, I thought I read here that I needed a 7mm wrench, the nuts were actually 8mm on mine.
Also, the tip I saw here about loosening the duct nuts in the center dash allowed me to get the unit out in 1-2 minutes, after I struggled with them for 1/2 hour . I just propped up the duct over the unit with a wood block, and I could get my whole hand in there.
I had everything back together in 10 minutes. If I had to do this again, it would be less than an hour.
I am new to this forum, and just want to thank everyone involved in this thread. I was schooling both the dealer and the guys at the auto parts stores with the info I found here!
#120
07-20-2015, 03:16 PM
peeplwtchr, glad my info helped you!
LoJac963, See #2:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...answers-27779/
LoJac963, See #2:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...answers-27779/