They do not need to be replaced in pairs.

 

I washed the H2 today & drove it around a little.
I noticed at one point, the ABS/traction control lights weren't on & the breaking was harsh. After driving for a little bit more (couldn't be over 1 mile), the lights came back on.

I know it's making a proper connection.
Are the hubs or sensors bad? Thoughts?

 

One of my coworkers just replaced a single hub on his 2500 with no problem lights or codes.
I'd recommend picking up a code reader from Harbor Freight and seeing if you can just clear the code. It should go away.

 

What happens quite often is the ABS sensor harness will break the copper strands in the wires from all the up and down motion of the control arm. You can inspect the harness and hope that you can visually see a break in the wire, sometimes harness replacement is your best option. If you find a break you can solder the wires back together and you will be good to go or should I say good to stop. LOL

 

Any luck, Synth?

 

I've had no time to get to this. Between not having a garage & lots of rain, it's been impossible.

I have a buddy with a very large garage / storage shed. I'm going to see if he'll let me knock it out possibly Sunday. I'm going to try to use the original sensor as it was working before removing it. If that doesn't work, I'll cannibalize the other wheel hub assembly's sensor & buy one for that.

 

Update. The H2 still has the ABS/Traction Control Light on.

I took a multimeter to the old sensors (both front sensors). The old ones are bad, but the new ones are good. This doesn't make sense to me. The driver's side was replaced & then threw the error, but that one was replaced. Before this, everything worked. Now I come to find out that the passenger front side is bad. I replaced the bad passenger side sensor with a new sensor. The H2 still throws the code.

All that I can think of is that all 4 sensors are bad. (I don't see how all 4 can go at the exact same time). That means I also have to replace the rear sensors, too.

Or

It's a bad fuse, which is also be extremely coincidental.


How do you guys think I should proceed?

I don't have a garage to work in, the weather has been horrendous, & the driveway in this rental is a pool of water, literally. Working on the vehicle, short of inspecting the fuse, is out till my buddy has the time to let me use his garage again. I'm at the end of my rope with this issue as it almost stranded me. I'm really confused. This is normally a replace & move on type of project.

Any ideas are helpful.

 

Reread and don't see, what codes are being thrown? HUMTECH or calif phil, maybe some other guru had a great description of how these BUS systems work and what's happening when codes are being thrown. Sometimes they indicate a system not getting what it expects on the BUS, sometimes it's the component sending the signal that's bad.

Like today, coming down the mountain in slow and slush, using the tranny in manual to downshift, CEL came on and tranny was stuck in one gear, I think 2nd. Shut off, waited 5 minutes, restarted and tranny recovered but CEL stayed on. Drove to a garage I've learned to trust out here and got them to scan it. Got 0700, a generic problem code, and 0752C, shift solenoid stuck. Last time it happened in similar conditions went to Autozone but their reader only showed the 0700 code and another generic code I've forgotten. This time I have a specific code. Higher tech reader I'm thinking.

Long way around the point. Try to find someplace that can pull the specific codes that are telling the ABS/TC lights to come on. HUMTECH posted a lenghty troubleshooting procedure over on Elcova for this type problem. CAn't put my finger on it at the mo, oc...

 

I have a generic OBD reader. I can see what comes up & go from there.
I don't have a garage here I'd trust. I'll just see if it throws any useful codes, otherwise, things will get more interesting.