Hello, folks.
On my 2005 H2, the rear hatch handle seems to be disconnected. I've read multiple threads on the issue, but not much on my snag.

I can't open the hatch, it seems to be locking and unlocking(by remote and door button), However, I'm having trouble getting the interior panel off at the bottom to investigate. I popped it off from top to below window, but it seems wedged in between the interior wheel well compartments and i'm afraid I might break it if I pull any harder. I am able to reach hand inside enough to push handle in and out, but couldn't feel anything obvious from that point.

My questions are: Does that panel come all the way off with door shut?
And, What might be the culprit for this issue.

Thanks for any advice.

 

I'm trying to remember when I had to replace the actuator in mine. I believe there are some push fasteners on the bottom so you would need the hatch open to remove the interior trim.


If you can get a hand down there you should be able to feel the actuator and the cables which go to it. If you are able to turn the bracket the cables are going to it should unlock and you could push the hatch open-obviously all this is done from inside the cargo area.


There should be 3 cables, 2 go to each lock and 1 from the handle. Don't quote me on any of this, going off the top of my head when I opened mine up quite a while back.


Hopefully that helps and you can get it open.

 

oops, as for the problem. It sounds like either the actuator has gone bad, the small bracket from the actuator has broken (don't think I've heard of that happening), or one of the cables has disconnected from the handle. Luckily the actuator includes everything you would need to replace that portion and they are fairly cheap.


Try to get in there and give us an update!

 

Thanks for your time.
I assumed, if I heard the hatch locking/unlocking that the actuator probably isn't the problem. However, On interior cover removal, I've seen images of the 2 latches, on each side at the bottom of door, say remove the 2 screws/bolts before trying to pull off the cover. I can see the latches, but there are no screws/bolts to remove.

Plus, it looks like 2 button caps are on the bottom of cover(what seems to be holding up the removal), and don't know if door being shut stops the from coming off. BTW, I have removed that cover while open before. I removes the license plate bulb adaptor for the spare tire, but can't remember what all was under there.

I might try to get some kind off rod to hit down the bottom of door cover and see if that pops them out.

 

Maybe the actuator arm broke or disconnected from the assembly if you still hear it working. Mine would make some noise once in a while before it failed entirely.


It would be easier for you as I mentioned above to just turn the bracket with the cables to unlock the hatch. That way you can open it and get to those push locks on the bottom of the trim. I think that would be the easiest way. I don't have a license plate pocket-I have the rear tire carrier so I can't help you in that aspect.


Keep us updated!

 

OK, I completely misinterpreted you successfully opening it from inside. I'll see how that goes. Earlier though, I did turn (what felt like), a thing that seemed to have had a very small cable(right behind the handle area), but didn't fiddle with it due to being nervous of breaking something.

I'll let you know the outcome, Thanks a lot, LoJac.

 

I also had the tire carrier set-up. However, my swing arm got a rust hole and started to sag when open, plus leaned the spare out at an angle. So I took the spare off and noticed I had no plate light on the hatch(was on the spare tire). That's when I had to take the cover off before. I can't remember if it was to put bulb in or take the spare line out.

 

I appreciate your advice on this very much.
I got it fixed in a snap.
I'll post this fix in case it's helpful for others.

Note: None of my cables were broke and actuator was working.

From inside: I pulled the top part of hatch interior cover off around window. There were 2 buttons still attached under door, but you can reach your hand down to the lowest cable(directly under actuator), and with the doors unlocked, push the gold lever over to the right and hopefully you are able to push open the door.
Investigate from there.

What I found: My pin/bolt had come out from inside the springs hole housing, which is what wraps a plastic arm like piece around the door handles end.
I lined up the holes and put in a bolt, and it's fixed.

Now lets ride!

 

Glad you got it fixed!


After I installed my GOBI ladder I don't let my rear hatch slam shut anymore. I grab the ladder just before it closes and I let it gently close. I have an odd feeling it slamming shut is the major culprit with the actuator issues.

 

I know what you mean. My kids think that just because it's a bigger truck, they have to be shut hard. I get on them and other people about it quite often.

On another note... I'm glad I finally posted on this forum. I've had my Hummer for over 3 years and it's good to have others to share tips and tricks with on the same vehicle.