Hey guys,
I need some electrical help.....Please. First off I am a wiring novice on newer style vehicles. I have a 1997 KSC2 2 door H1. I recently moved my batteries from the engine bay to one of the storage areas (rear seat cavity) on the passenger rear side. I am sure some of you will question my moving of the batteries but it seemed simple and straightforward enough. Although possibly regretting it now, my original reasons were many including a battery box that was toast, successful water proofing of my storage space, etc….. My truck does have some po modifications that have me confused and hopefully someone on here will be able to set me straight.
When I got the truck, an additional solenoid was being used to run the winch. I opted to remove the current winch wiring (going to add another later) and was left with this additional solenoid along with a lot of confusion. I am not sure if the solenoid needs to remain (there is one on the starter) and if not where do the wires on the I and S stubs go now? The truck started and ran fine before but once the batteries were moved….. now when I press the starter button I get nothing. Turning the ignition still causes the fuel pump to run, dash lights up, all interior lights etc work, headlights work, just no cranking at the starter.
All of this is further compounded by the po bypassing the ignition switch and now using a push starter button. Basically the truck must be switched on with the key (this turns the glow plugs, fuel pump, etc…. on) then actually cranked with the push button.
My batteries are not the newest but still charge fully and even if old I would have expected them to at least make it slowly turn over.
Changes that were made include the ground and starter wire were upgraded to 2/0 G Temco AWG automotive cable wire. The alternator and glow plug wires were upgraded to 1 G Temco AWG automotive cable wire. I utilized the original grounding mount on the engine block but the move increased the overall length of all wires from approximately 3 feet to 7-8 feet.
My questions would be:

1). If I am not utilizing the winch/winch wiring, does the additional solenoid need to remain?
2). If no to number 1, where do the wires on the I and S stubs now go?
3). Where would you start in looking for why it will not start? I do not think it is the neutral safety switch. How to look for voltage to starter/ignition starter button etc….

I have included a picture of where the batteries are now. Try not to judge, my plan was to get it running this way then clean it up and make it look pretty.
Pictures of my ignition starter button wiring, a schematic of the wiring before I moved it ( when it ran) and one after I moved it ( no longer will crank).
As always thank you very much in advance and all advice, instruction, and comments are greatly appreciated.
J

 

looking at the pic of the switch it looks like it could be aftermarket judging by that piece of crap blue scotch clip. Those blue skotch clips piece of crap things cause so many electrical problems. The car sterio shops like to use those. The winch should not be hooked to the starter signal wire at all. That 3rd pic is a switch not a solenoid. A solenoid can not only have two wires. I would try removing that switch and hook the two wires together after removing that blue scotch clip and epairing the wiring. I like to use the heat shrink connectors.

 

On seccond thought, i bet that switch is the brake light switch and you have a aftermarket alarm with remote start. They tap into the brake switch to cut the engine off if you dont put the key in before you step on brake. I bet your issue is with the alarm.

 

Note: I didn't read the whole post, I'm just going to answer your questions.


1) If you are not using the winch and don't want to properly connect it leave it completely disconnected.
3) No start conditions depend on the symptoms. Please answer the following questions and we can help narrow down the no start issue for you.


1 - Does the engine turn over properly?
2 - If the engine turns over properly does it puff white smoke from the exhaust pipe?
2a - If yes, that's good. Check your glow plugs and verify proper fuel pressure (6-10psi). It's trying to start.
2b - If no, then I need to know which engine you have. In 1997 they made 115 2-doors half of which had 6.5Td and the other half with 6.5na.

If it's a turbo diesel try replacing your PMD first. If that doesn't work then you need to verify fuel pressure after the lift pump (6-10psi) and then crack an injector line. Assuming you don't have any flow at the fuel line but do have pressure at the input side of the IP you need an IP (injection pump). Someone else will suggest verifying the FSS but it's never that.

If you have a 6.5na diesel then verify fuel flow like above but skip the PMD/ECU thing and you need a IP.

Replacing a fuel injection pump isn't a job a novice would want to tackle. You'd want to send it to someone who knows how to replace and time an IP.

IPs are failing a lot lately because of the 15ppm ULSD fuel. They generally have a 15-20 year life span.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I finally figured it out. The po installed an inline 40amp fuse that was blown. It was hidden in a most odd space. Lesson learned.
Thanks for everything