New on the forum - thank you in advance for your feedback.

I am currently looking for an H1 and want to make sure I get one that is not going to kill me in repairs. I have read many of the posts on here and realize service is key and yes, repair and service is expensive - doing the homework up front will help insure a "good" vehicle is purchased.

My question: I am looking at a 2000 H1 with over 100,000 miles. I found a dealership that services H1s and have asked them to do an inspection on the vehicle. They are going to provide me with what their inspection includes but would like to understand from the forum - what should be on the list so that I may add it if it is not already on there. My #1 concern is the #8 cylinder - given it is a 2000 motor. Is there any way to inspect the condition of this? What else should I be concerned with?

 

Did some additional research and plagerized from flash off road. Created this in a check list for mechanic. Hopefully this helps others - would love feedback from anyone else:


1. Check fluid levels
a. Engine Oil
b. Antifreeze (engine cold)
c. Power steering
d. Brake
e. Automatic transmission (engine hot and running)
i. Bad transmission fluid smells burnt and is brown (instead of red)
ii. Fluid in the transfer case
f. Battery water if it is the kind that needs fluid
g. Oil visible under the truck or in the parking spot
2. Tires
a. Uneven tire wear?
b. Alignment
c. Spare? Condition?
3. Body Damage
a. Look at undercarriage and see if it is bent up and touching the exhaust
b. Rocker panels – scarred up?
c. Check body for rust – surface rust, body or components?
d. Pull carpet up over wheel wells look for rust on inner seams
e. Bubbling paint around tail lights
f. Paint overspray
g. Cracked or broken glass or plastic parts
4. Electrical
a. Windows
b. Locks
c. Lights (including accessories)
d. Mirrors
e. Tail lights
f. Turn signals
g. Voltage should read over 13 running
5. Engine
a. Try to start the truck cold. This means the truck hasn't been started for 8 to 10 hours. Open the hood. Have someone with you who can watch to see if smoke and what color comes out of the rear pipe.
b. The truck should start immediately once the glow plugs cycle. If it cranks hard before starting there is a problem.
c. Do the following on 1996 to 2000 turbo diesels. Once it's idling for 30 seconds or so shut it off. Remove the radiator cap and see if there is pressure. On a cold engine there shouldn't be any. If there is it could indicate a cracked block or blown head gasket.
d. Once the engine is completely warmed up crack open the coolant air bleeder. If foaming coolant comes there is a problem. When you shut the truck off and hear a 'clunk' you have a vibration dampener going bad.
6. Suspension
a. Idler arms
b. Pitman arms
i. truck running, turn the steering wheel, if you can turn the wheel more than 2 inches back and forth without wheels turning– problem with pitman arms.
c. Ball joints
d. Tie rod ends
e. Steering gear
i. When you turn the wheels all the way to the right and all the way to the left and they turn easier in one direction you probably have an issue with the steering gear.
f. Alignment
i. A steering wheel that isn’t level indicates an alignment problem
g. Geared hubs
i. If you see oil dripping or a fan spray on the inside of the tire – hub seal leak
h. Springs
i. Look at the truck on a flat surface. If the truck isn’t sitting level, sagging springs.
ii. Closely examine the springs and look for cracks in the coils indicating a broken spring
i. Brakes
i. Truck should stop straight
ii. Brake pedal should be firm and no pulse
1. Pulsing indicates warped rotor
2. Soft brakes indicate air in the line
iii. Check brake pads for wear
iv. Test the parking brake
j. Transmission
i. Foot on brake, put the truck in drive the shift to reverse. Do this a few times. See if you hear much of a clunking sound. This should tell you how much play there is in the drive train. It could be a stretched transfer case chain, bad hub, bad diff, etc..
ii. Drive the truck around town and on highway. Make sure transmission shifts into all 4 gears.
k. Shocks
i. See if the truck sways around corners
l. Wheels
i. Take truck up to 70 MPH and see if it shakes. Many vibration problems due to bent wheels, out of round tires, unbalanced tires or worn suspension parts.
ii. If you feel a vibration under the drivers feet, it could be a bad front drive shaft.
iii. Drive the truck in a very slow tight turn in both directions – see if tires are rubbing on the hood or suspension
1. Could indicate over sized tires
2. Sagging springs
3. Creaking noise – loose front body mounts.
m. Transfer case
i. See if the transfer case will shift into 4H and 4L (best done on a dirt or gravel road)
n. Gauges
i. All operational?
o. Radio
i. FM
ii. CD
iii. Speakers
p. Temperature
i. Drive long enough that the trucks engine temperature is in the normal range – should read almost 200
q. HVAC
i. Heat blows hot, sitting and up and running
ii. AC blows cold, sitting and up and running

 

Best frickin reply on this entire site! Great contribution. I was going to say about 5-10 things but then read your post. Definately no need for me to post.

 

Great checklist

Here is a good page w lots of info on how to inspect aswell as the differences between the model years

Buying a Used Hummer and What to Look For. Gas vs. Diesel

 

Good list. Basically you want them to check everything they would on a "C" service, all options and a cosmetic check. What dealer is going to do the inspection.

 

Victory Layne Chevrolet in Fort Myers FL was the closest "dealership" I could find that had experience with the H1.

Everything checked out fine, one issue with the back brakes pulsating (wasn't doing it when I test drove it) - the owner is replacing the back rotor (which was cracked) and I pick up my new H1 hopefully Monday.

 

Cool. Congrats on the H1.