id like to see 240 amps load at 15v at idle,no drop?240 load?

the stock 125 drops to 11.7 v with ext 60 amp load,,,idle,,and 2000 rpm.

now a 240 amp load,idle,no drop.

lets see pics,then ill believe

 

Def a good writeup! My neighbor loved my truck so much he went out and got his own, but it's an I5 and I have a feeling his alt may be getting old and tired so this could help soon! I foresee some beer bartering in exchange for help wrenching in the future.

Attached is our rides together the other night.

Well, to be fair, my amplifiers are only tuned to about half power, otherwise it wouldn't even be enjoyable to listen to. I run my system at about 25% of its potential most days, and at about 90% I start to smell my voice coils!

I'm not a fan of that smell as I'm not trying to kill my gear and have to replace it.

That being said, with my system blaring at a level that will let me get close enough to check voltages without ear plugs, with the dome lights on, and all exterior lights, I hold steady at about 13.8-14.2v except during extended bass notes (more than two to four seconds). I'm getting a stinger LCD voltage display to mount somewhere in the cockpit area so I'll try to get some pictures, or better yet video of my voltage holding steady.

I wouldn't lie to you tom, I love you too much!

 

Now who wants to buy a 07 H3 ADV?

 

I would like to thank 0331marine for the post. Followed steps took about two and a half hours. Saved a bunch of money from not taking it to the shops around here. Thanks again!!

 

Thanks for posting!! This worked for me on my 2008 Hummer H3. Went mudding and got the alternator all jammed with mud. Luckily it failed halfway home on the highway instead of on the trails.

Some notes, and things that I did differently...

• I did not have to remove the fuel line. I was able squeak by it and get the alternator out.
• Removing the battery box and fuse box are essential!
• The belt was easy to get to if you use a 3 foot tensioner wrench from harbor freight. Best $15 you can spend to make this job easier. Removing the belt was like flipping an on/off switch.
• The fuse box is a pain in the *** if you didn't realize there are attachment levers that need to be pulled out from each side of the electrical connectors under the fuse box. I kept trying to push the fuse box in, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't push back in. Move those levers on the grey and white connectors.

Thanks again for posting this!!

 

HUGE thanks to 0331Marine for jumping in first and making it so much easier for everyone else to follow

My 2006 H3 with 160,000 kept draining the battery. Luckily, I never got stranded. always found it dead in the driveway the next morning. No warning. Since no codes, no warning lights, no DIC messages etc I assumed it was somebody leaving the dome light or the aftermarket radio left on all night.

Last Friday the battery light came on intermittently for the first time and the word BATTERY popped up in DIC. An hour later they were on full time, 10 seconds after the truck starts. No other issues, truck ran fine, lights never dimmed, even with all four power and windows etc.

I put a volt meter on the pos/neg terminals and it read 11 and change running all accessories, no accessories or stone cold off. I don't know much but I know that's supposed to be at least 13 volts coming off of there.

Ditto rallyrcr's bullets. I had to GENTLY PRESS - not bend - A/C rigid lines back a hair. Hope I didn't accelerate any stress fractures in the aluminum, I also have to to say, looking at the entire fuse box assembly out of the truck, sitting on the workbench was a very unsettling sight

Thanks again, GREAT write up!

 

Followed this perfectly, thank you for saving me money.

Now, if I can figure out why it still says my alternator is overcharging, even though I just replaced it..

 

I wanted to thank you for posting this information online. It saved me $450.00! I always said that I didn't want a truck that I couldn't work on myself. As a new H3 owner, I am thankful for your kindness in sharing this information. Thanks again!

 

You don’t have to remove fuse box or disconnect fuel line. It is tight but will come out top.

 

Moving this to the H3 FAQ section where it will be easier to find when somebody needs it.