are the actual specs available,just how many real "watts"?,amp,speakers?

 

1200 watts leaving amp.

 

Front Doors: 5 1/4 in each door
A-pillars: 1" tweeter
Rear Doors: 5 1/4 in each door
Sub: 8" dual voice coil in an injection molded cabinet

Amp: 8 channel 2 to the tweeters, 4 to the doors and 2 more to the 8" subwoofer.

The "actual" power is around 300 watts RMS. 25w to the tweets, 25w to each door and 75 to each voice coil of the subwoofer.

Hope this helps drtom!

In order for an amp to "actually" put out "1200 watts" you would need at least 2 gauge power wire running to it. The OEM 8 channel amp has 8 gauge.

 

yeah, the 300 sounds abt right. i was just curious. i have a leftover 200 from my old probe with just 2 outputs. it never sounded like the h3!
1200! would take over 100 amps on 12v!!haha.it mite slow u down.

 

It depends on the quality of the wire really. I'm an avid fan of knuknonceptz wire. They offer a few different lines of power and ground wiring and its all thick top notch OFC with the most flexible jacket I've ever seen. The fact that you can tie their 0 Gauge in a knot easily really says something about the quality of their product. Good luck trying that with Audiopipe or American Bass wire. I think their wiring is actually a little thicker than 0 Gauge because comparing it to other brands, you actually see how crappy other brands are. Most brands have a hard thick jacket and really tiny wire in the middle for claiming to be "0 Gauge".

I was running a 1200W RMS amp that had 4 gauge inputs on it, and it handled the 4 gauge just fine, and the amp benched at 1232 RMS. Of course thats assuming you're getting a solid 14 volts at all times which you wont, and if you're not the amp is putting out less power.

4 Gauge is good for about 120 amps before you start pushing your luck depending on the length of the run. I'm currently running two Cadence amps bridged together for 2000RMS total, and that's a true verified 2000RMS.

The 4 gauge runs to a Kinetik HC1800 battery near the sub, and then a 0 Gauge output to a distribution block and then two 4 Gauge outputs from the block to each amp. I slam my system regularly and haven't popped a fuse up front yet.

That being said if you're gonna bother running power for system just do it right and run 0 Gauge. You'll be glad you did. I wasn't planning on taking my system as far as I did and just said screw it and ran 4 Gauge. Sometime in the near future I'll be running 0 Gauge to the back and will probably just run it along side the 4 Gauge. My battery is grounded out at 0 Gauge to the frame, along with both amps grounded at 4 Gauge.

Alright, that's enough car auto geeking out for me.

 

i happen to have a 14v regulated supply that would deliver over 100amps if u know any one who needs a bench test supply. i spose those guys use batteries huh?

 

Pretty much. My buddy just uses a massive car audio battery hooked up to a charger at his shop.

 

h3t has no sub what are amp specs please

 

The H3T actually uses the woofer of each 6x8 in the rear doors to reproduce sub bass and mid bass.
The mid-tweet in the rear door produces the remainder of the sound spectrum.

 

Pretty much.