Someone glued the door seals to my Hummer
#1
07-31-2018, 10:59 AM
Someone glued the door seals to my Hummer
Hey folks... im tracking down a water leak when it rains. And I have noticed some things. Keep in mind I haven’t had this h2 for long. I can see the marker lights have gaskets under them. Mine are all dry rotted. Found some replacements on eBay and they are on the way. Also thanks to someone in this forum I found that the round gromet on each corner light is hardly sealing... shrinkage over time I’d say. I will clean that area and use good silicone as recommended. Now while up there I noticed my door seals were not on quite right... after further inspection I see where the P.O. used what looks like liquid nail across the top to keep it attached to the plastic edge that runs along the roof (yes I know that bastard)... and they didn’t size it right so as it goes down and to the front by the fender it’s a little short and falling off. I guess all I can do is buy new ones and replace as needed but I’m afraid on the liquid nail causing a replacement issue. Has anyone ever seen something like this? Also I need to be sure something isint broken and they just tried to glue it all together. I like things done right. But if it’s all jacked up as is I might just trim the bottom part and move in 
thoughts, pics of how it should be or door seal wright ups welcome. I’ll get a few pics in a while.
thoughts, pics of how it should be or door seal wright ups welcome. I’ll get a few pics in a while.
#2
07-31-2018, 12:20 PM
Hey folks... im tracking down a water leak when it rains. And I have noticed some things. Keep in mind I haven’t had this h2 for long. I can see the marker lights have gaskets under them. Mine are all dry rotted. Found some replacements on eBay and they are on the way. Also thanks to someone in this forum I found that the round gromet on each corner light is hardly sealing... shrinkage over time I’d say. I will clean that area and use good silicone as recommended. Now while up there I noticed my door seals were not on quite right... after further inspection I see where the P.O. used what looks like liquid nail across the top to keep it attached to the plastic edge that runs along the roof (yes I know that bastard)... and they didn’t size it right so as it goes down and to the front by the fender it’s a little short and falling off. I guess all I can do is buy new ones and replace as needed but I’m afraid on the liquid nail causing a replacement issue. Has anyone ever seen something like this? Also I need to be sure something isint broken and they just tried to glue it all together. I like things done right. But if it’s all jacked up as is I might just trim the bottom part and move in
thoughts, pics of how it should be or door seal wright ups welcome. I’ll get a few pics in a while.
thoughts, pics of how it should be or door seal wright ups welcome. I’ll get a few pics in a while.
As far as the door seals, I had the same issue and had to silicone the top in order to get it to stop leaking - I have no idea why they would've used liquid nails or glue.
I believe over time and from the heat/sun the seals will shrink, making it not fit exactly right where it bends down the A pillar. I think it is probably more important that it fits snug in the bend than being perfect at the bottom
#3
08-01-2018, 05:45 AM
Thanks this is helpful. I may try to get mine to fit better in the bend for now and might trim the bottom so it’s not interesting with the channel and knocking the deal off. I will take on a future project to replace with new though. I’m guessing if I had new seals it would all fit right? And like you said I’m also guessing the seals shrunk and started to fall and some idiot used liquid nails to glue it up. My only fear is that once I remove this seal that it will just all come apart and rubber will be left with liquid nails on my trim pieces.
#4
08-01-2018, 07:01 AM
Hard telling until you try and remove them..... One thing is that after these get removed is that the gripping action of them becomes loose but you can use something like a roller, even pliers, and (NOT too hard) squeeze them seals along the gripping edge to bend the metal inside back closed so they grip the edge good again. My understanding on these is that they can literally become overwhelmed with water and when the gripping channel part fills up it can run over on the inside which is why many end up putting a bead of caulk to seal it and prevent that from happening. That also serves to help make sure the seal stays in place better.
#5
08-01-2018, 10:50 AM
I cut the very end off the seal for now (the part all the way forward that clips under the edge) this allows the bend to seat up much better (shrinking must of pulled it out of the silicone over time). I also pulled the silicone out of the bend... which as you guessed now allows water to run down the bend part... so I’ll add some fresh later today for that.
In in the near future I’ll buy two new ones and plan for a weekend rip and replace. I hope the liquid nail plays nice... I’ll let it sit in the sun and use a heat gun to aid in the removal as best as I can. Then I’ll install new and water test it and seal as needed (with black silicone).
Thanks for your pics and conversation. It helps me to know I’m on the right track. I did seal the corner lights yesterday and they seem quite snug now. I wouldn’t expect any more water going in from those holes. The marker light gaskets are on the way. So I’ll know more when I get them in if that will be a good enough fix.
More later
In in the near future I’ll buy two new ones and plan for a weekend rip and replace. I hope the liquid nail plays nice... I’ll let it sit in the sun and use a heat gun to aid in the removal as best as I can. Then I’ll install new and water test it and seal as needed (with black silicone).
Thanks for your pics and conversation. It helps me to know I’m on the right track. I did seal the corner lights yesterday and they seem quite snug now. I wouldn’t expect any more water going in from those holes. The marker light gaskets are on the way. So I’ll know more when I get them in if that will be a good enough fix.
More later
Last edited by myrddin; 08-01-2018 at 10:53 AM.
#6
08-01-2018, 02:10 PM
For tough old adhesive, on the paint ONLY you can wet a rag with Xylol (Xylene - solvent, you can get it bay the gallon can at Lowes for about $20) and keep it held on the adhesive for a couple of minutes and then use a plastic scraper to scrape it off. I have a sign company and we strip a LOT of old vinyl graphics and nothing cuts the old adhesive better or faster. Xylol is safe on factory automotive paints but can damage certain plastics, rubber, and lesser paints like the polyester paint on utility trailers (it will dissolve that type of paint). It is also an excellent degreaser and general purpose solvent. Does have a strong odor and like most anything, if you live in California it will give you cancer (I think just living there can give you cancer nowadays lol). I'm not sure of much of anything else that will work on a heavier adhesive like liquid nails. It will however not work on silicone. Pretty much nothing works to remove silicone other than mechanical (ie damage the surface) removal and not much of anything will adhere to silicone either, often times not even more silicone which is why I always recommend polyurethane or acrylic sealants (at least you can chemically remove them later if needed).
#7
08-02-2018, 05:08 AM
Thanks for this info! I am actually using polyurethane 
I sealed the bend last night and let it sit for about 4-5 hours with the door open (shut it up before bed). I’ll do a water test today sometime to see if it’s sealed up or needs more. It’s not a great design. I don’t understand some of the gaps... will see how it works out.
I sealed the bend last night and let it sit for about 4-5 hours with the door open (shut it up before bed). I’ll do a water test today sometime to see if it’s sealed up or needs more. It’s not a great design. I don’t understand some of the gaps... will see how it works out.
#8
08-02-2018, 05:59 PM
well I tested the door sealing area for the first time today. I only made it to the driver side. I sat the hose on the roof rail so water could run down the track... I didn’t notice any coming in on the inside corner (still need to test) but it poured threw the bend into the outer edge of the door seal... how could this have ever worked? I got the polyurethane back out and sealed a little deeper on top (all the way to the back) and I also sealed under the bend in the bottom. Now I need to wait like four hours to shut my doors and I’ll test agn tomorrow. Once I get the outter door working I’ll test the corners better and then work on the marker lights once I get the gaskets.
I really think that even if I had brand new gaskets that it would still leak in that area. Where the seal clips onto the plastic edge of the roof rail it doesn’t seem to fit tight enough to seal against the body.. I don’t think any way. I also put a dab of sealant on the tiny hole in the trim at the bend... in my mind it should go down that channel or if it runs over it should be guided down the the seal to the front. Shouldn’t just pour threw the seal into the door seal and dash
lame design
I really think that even if I had brand new gaskets that it would still leak in that area. Where the seal clips onto the plastic edge of the roof rail it doesn’t seem to fit tight enough to seal against the body.. I don’t think any way. I also put a dab of sealant on the tiny hole in the trim at the bend... in my mind it should go down that channel or if it runs over it should be guided down the the seal to the front. Shouldn’t just pour threw the seal into the door seal and dash
lame design
Last edited by myrddin; 08-02-2018 at 06:03 PM.
#9
08-03-2018, 11:17 AM
I have been chasing this one water leak for years... All the marker lights are sealed with "RTV" sealant. Now I have the leak at the top of the "A" pillar (Driver Side) at the area where the headliner meets the plastic A pillar cover. It spreads out from there.
I have also replace the door seal on the outer edge that goes down and back as shown it the above pic posted. So you sealed that area with sealant? And it fixed the leak? Let me know as if that stopped the leaking ...I'm ready to try that.
I dread when it rains hard. I have tried all I can think of except that. ...Help...!! L.O.L.
I have also replace the door seal on the outer edge that goes down and back as shown it the above pic posted. So you sealed that area with sealant? And it fixed the leak? Let me know as if that stopped the leaking ...I'm ready to try that.
I dread when it rains hard. I have tried all I can think of except that. ...Help...!! L.O.L.
#10
08-03-2018, 11:44 AM
I know some have also discovered leaks where the actual main rails bolt to the roof and one of the actual roof seams under those rails. Warning - those are not terribly easy to remove either. I've had mine off when I first got it and sealed all of that as well as all the lights, etc, and I'm still chasing a tiny leak which I think is the windsheild itself. Later this fall I'll be pulling mine in my shop for a month or so to do a lot of work including having the headliner redone. I figure that is when I'll truly narrow down and kill every last leak since I'll have the inside of the roof fully exposed and visible.
