RE: offroad optimization
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RE: offroad optimization - 5/26/2006 12:48:37 AM
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Linus Gump
Posts: 960
Status: offline
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Weight vs. tire width has a major impact on traction. In your type of soft goo, floatation is the best, so a wider tire works better, especially aired down. That provides an even bigger footprint and helps the tire self clean for another bite. The drawback to this setup is that on wet or icy roads, you are too light in the footprint and you get the same effect as if you were driving on marbles. I learned this the hard way with a jeep about 12 years ago. On the other hand, thicker, more defined goo that has a bottem close to the surface can actually benefit from a skinnier tire that can penetrate down to the solid surface for traction. The drwback here is that if you encounter anything softer, you will sink and be stuck. Unless you are setting you rig up for a specific type of terrain and can live with the harsh sacrafices on other terrain, something close in width to what the manufacturer put on is probably going to be the best over all, just change the tread to something more suited for the most common terrain you expect to encounter. At least this is what my experience has taught me.
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RE: offroad optimization - 5/26/2006 1:57:54 PM
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Greenblade
 Posts: 649
Joined: 3/19/2006 Status: offline
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yeah, i've heard that only punch-drunk guys who drool too much in their sleep stop in the middle of mud. what weirdos is the warn sort of transportable from front to back or inside the rear? as in, put it on if you need it fairly fast, then take it off, move it to the back if needed, etc.? i should get one of those, that's pretty cool. I found a place that can (per them) deliver Toyo M/Ts. i'm thinking about having them put onto my factory rims and swapped in the case that i find objectionalbe noise/safety driving them day-to-day. I ran into a guy the other day with a '95 Suburban with a 454 and M/Ts that he uses as a recreational truck... he said he gets 8-10 mpg (that is a BIG motor) and that the thing is a menace on the roads, and he won't drive it around town as a result. his comment was that he slides through intersectinos routinely and can't stop on rain or stop/go on icy roads. i haven't a clue what brand or year of tires he has, & the Toyos might be alot better. Up here near the canadien border in the land of 10k lakes, we live with slippery roads in parts of town 1/3 of the year. main roads usually get sanded/salted, but back streets (like near my house) can remain bad all winter.
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RE: offroad optimization - 5/27/2006 3:00:26 AM
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Greenblade
 Posts: 649
Joined: 3/19/2006 Status: offline
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thanks short.
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RE: offroad optimization - 5/27/2006 3:12:12 AM
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Greenblade
 Posts: 649
Joined: 3/19/2006 Status: offline
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man that place - hummersolutions - has alot of things. i don't suppose you guys have any experience with intakes/exhaust/chips for power/mileage?
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RE: offroad optimization - 6/12/2006 7:11:37 AM
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Greenblade
 Posts: 649
Joined: 3/19/2006 Status: offline
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i found a really good price ona Warn 9000 winch. They're no longer sold most places, as they've been replaced with the 9500. Is the purchase of a 9000 a bad idea for any reason? -on a side note, i've had a small number of chances to do some fairly mild off road tinkering, and with a few other types of vehicle. its been interesting, and i think the apparent lesson is that no vehicle is "best" offroad, as offroad consists of so many different types of tasks. for example, i don't think the H2 is the worlds best mud machine, at least not w/factory tires and me driving. But at other chores, it seems to really do well. i need more coffee
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RE: offroad optimization - 6/14/2006 8:38:29 AM
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Greenblade
 Posts: 649
Joined: 3/19/2006 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: shortbus i think the difference has to do with the thermal shutoff circuitry, the 9500 was a step up. i think that's what he offers though, i don't think he still as the 9000, but if you can find one at a good price, go for it. thanks so much again, short. who's "he". warn? i think i will opt for the older model. on a related note, i think my list of changes to the truck is about done & i'm going to order the parts and have the dealer install them. I found a group of jeepers to hang out with, and they seem pretty happy about a hummer coming along and i have some dates with different trails, some of which offer the possibility of 5+, which i think is beyond stock vehicle capacity and my driving skills, but it might be fun, if i can't follow, to go along with them. and maybe one day i'll get to come back to the family farm and experience the joy of a hummer in the open prarie, where it probably has no peer on this planet. anyway, they were really cool.
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RE: offroad optimization - 6/14/2006 12:48:29 PM
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Greenblade
 Posts: 649
Joined: 3/19/2006 Status: offline
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well, lets see -the winch -i'm going to have some guards welded onto the side of the thing in place of steps. just some tube steel that sticks out to about the tire line, welded onto the existing rock slider things, whatever the name for those is -a front locker that the dealer says they can wire to disengage if the back one isn't on -i'm going to have some open countries mounted on the stock rims & the dealer will swap the rims for a very, very reasonable price. i'll have to see if in the end that's a horrible idea or not, the theory would be to change tires -one of those pull pal things, although i'm not sure it isn't giong to yank out of the ground -and i'm getting aftermarket tie rods -inclinometer, altimeter, some of those auto-air-down things, a new air hose (i never got my air kit with the truck, which is crap. i should talk to the dealer) And that's about it. i don't want a lift kit i've decided.
< Message edited by Greenblade -- 6/14/2006 3:40:32 PM >
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RE: offroad optimization - 6/19/2006 12:17:21 PM
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shortbus
Posts: 3602
Joined: 6/27/2005 Status: offline
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sounds like fun. what size toyos are you putting on? good idea on the lift, the only true lifts available are 4" or more. if there was a true 2" lift, i'd have that, but that's as far as i could go and still pull the camper. the offset torsion bar keys are only good for lifting the front, and i don't like the idea of the added stress to the torsion bars. what brand of tie rods are you going with? if you're going with Fabtech, i'd recommend having the installer check your idler and pitman arms while they're in there, the stock ones have a habit of wearing out. Fabtech used to provide them in their kit, but have since recalled them and replaced them with stock parts. i don't see much use in a pull-pal. it certainly won't help to pull the weight of an H2, and being that close to the cable could be deadly if it snaps. the only thing i could think it would be good for is tying to a tree or something and removing the slack, giving you a bit of an anchor point to pull sideways and remove any suction if you're in the deep muck. anyway, lets see pics as your work progresses.
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RE: offroad optimization - 6/19/2006 9:33:02 PM
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Linus Gump
Posts: 960
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: shortbus i don't see much use in a pull-pal. it certainly won't help to pull the weight of an H2, and being that close to the cable could be deadly if it snaps. the only thing i could think it would be good for is tying to a tree or something and removing the slack, giving you a bit of an anchor point to pull sideways and remove any suction if you're in the deep muck. anyway, lets see pics as your work progresses. The military uses them with the HMMWV. That thing with an armor kit weighs a hell of a lot more then the H2.
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