TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 8:41:55 AM
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dilo2001gt
 Posts: 4300
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how much did it raise the front
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 8:56:13 AM
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Raffi76
Posts: 237
Joined: 1/14/2006 Status: offline
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Is this something you did on your own or at the dealer?
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 10:12:42 AM
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Raffi76
Posts: 237
Joined: 1/14/2006 Status: offline
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hmm I dont think I would attempt this on my own, I don't even know what bar you are talking about..... never really tried anything of this extent and I dont think I wanne try my first on this vehicle..... maybe if someone to show me was there :) then I am sure I could do it safely without having to have worry I turn the wrong button and the whole car collapses :D
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 10:15:00 AM
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Dennis
 Posts: 7584
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quote:
ORIGINAL: shortbus torsion bar adjustment is easy to do, not worth having the dealer do it. might not want them to know you've done it either, they seem to look for reasons to not honor warranty. just follow the bar back to the middle of your chassis. each one has a bolt coming down from the adjuster key. jack up the front a bit to take pressure off it, then make your adjustment. not sure each turn does on an H3, but on the H2 each turn = .2 inch. measure a point on the body before you do it, and then again after (wheel to fender/bumper to driveway/etc.). you'll want to drive it a bit, make sure it feels right, then get an alignment. Pardon my ignorance ..But does this adjustment of the torsion bars in affect, raise the the body from the wheels a little, i.e., more wheelwell heigth for larger diameter tires etc?
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 10:32:23 AM
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dilo2001gt
 Posts: 4300
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Well on a leveling kit it just replace those keys it raised mine up two inches you can put 35 in tires on after but not sure how much factory one raise the front if they do go two inche i got screwed. But like shortbus said you need to do a front alignment and adjust your headlights.
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 11:02:39 AM
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shortbus
Posts: 3602
Joined: 6/27/2005 Status: offline
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it's pretty simple, and even though its a GM product, i doubt you'll find anything that will make it fall apart. the torsion bar runs from the bottom A-arm on your front suspension, back to around the center of the chassis. if you take a look underneath, you'll see a long bar, about 1 1/2 inches diameter. both ends are hex shaped, one slides in the a-arm up front, the other has a key on it with a tab sticking out. the adjuster bolt pushes the tab, applying more twist to the bar and causing it to push down on the a-arm, basically pushing the wheel down away from the body. there's a cross member running side to side in the middle of the chassis that the keys/adjustments sit in. there's only one bolt in line with each torsion bar, so you won't get confused. it's standard thread, not reverse for one side or anything, so a good ratchet will work. just take the weight off the front of the vehicle. or, if you're lazy like me, use a breaker bar and just put some muscle in it. just keep track of the number of turns so you do each side the same. don't worry if the amount of bolt sticking out isn't the same, it should have been adjusted from the factory to be level. i had never done it before either, but it's really easy, i'm sure you can do it.
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 12:12:07 PM
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Raffi76
Posts: 237
Joined: 1/14/2006 Status: offline
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HeHe I think I will have to look at it, cuz u making it sound so easy and yet I really don't know what you talking about :D
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RE: TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT - 2/17/2006 1:22:54 PM
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Dennis
 Posts: 7584
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: shortbus it's pretty simple, and even though its a GM product, i doubt you'll find anything that will make it fall apart. the torsion bar runs from the bottom A-arm on your front suspension, back to around the center of the chassis. if you take a look underneath, you'll see a long bar, about 1 1/2 inches diameter. both ends are hex shaped, one slides in the a-arm up front, the other has a key on it with a tab sticking out. the adjuster bolt pushes the tab, applying more twist to the bar and causing it to push down on the a-arm, basically pushing the wheel down away from the body. there's a cross member running side to side in the middle of the chassis that the keys/adjustments sit in. there's only one bolt in line with each torsion bar, so you won't get confused. it's standard thread, not reverse for one side or anything, so a good ratchet will work. just take the weight off the front of the vehicle. or, if you're lazy like me, use a breaker bar and just put some muscle in it. just keep track of the number of turns so you do each side the same. don't worry if the amount of bolt sticking out isn't the same, it should have been adjusted from the factory to be level. i had never done it before either, but it's really easy, i'm sure you can do it. Aah..I see why the alignment is best to do after the torsion tweeking..I suspect it's the Castor/Camber that would be out of wack...Heck with it, if you did that, and then the dealer needs to re-align it again................. it sounds like a catch 22
< Message edited by Dennis -- 2/17/2006 1:24:27 PM >
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