Sway Bar

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Sway Bar - 12/12/2007 9:21:08 PM   
2zRescue


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What do you think about a sway bars? Has any one installed one on their H3?

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/12/2007 9:28:40 PM   
GarrettMoore

 

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As in installing a thicker one to decrease roll / increase handling?

If you took that route, I think you'd be polishing a turd.


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RE: Sway Bar - 12/12/2007 9:33:24 PM   
Hummer Guy


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I'm with GMoore - I don't think you'll notice much of a difference from the factory sway bar -- but maybe someone on here has done it and can say different.

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 4:10:18 AM   
D VADER



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I'm an advocate of better handling.  The H3 does lean a great deal in cornering.  The front sway bar on the H3 is massive but doesn't quite get the job done.  I'm not aware of any aftermarket front and rear sway bars for the H3.

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 7:01:00 AM   
duckstu

 

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The H3 understeers a ton.  I.e. the front tires squeal and slide WAY before the rears do.

To correct that you'd want to install a larger REAR bar.  That would decrease lean a bit and improve the handling a chunk.

Here is a link to a company that makes a larger rear bar, and includes stiffer front bushings. $264.00
http://www.teakatoys.com/Hummer_H3_Sway_Bar_by_Hellwig_p/hw-7682.htm

To save a few bucks (and because I have a welder) I did this instead.  I modified the stock bar, so as to make it adjustable. Then installed the endlinks into the new inner hole.

The stock bar is solid and pinched at the end.  I added some weld to the top and bottom of each end an inch or two from the ends,..and then ground that part of the round bar flat.  All this to extend the flat and wide area where the endlinks attach to further in on the bar.  Then I drilled a new set of holes an inch inboard of the origionals,..and hit the bar with some black spray paint.  The endlinks are actually closer to vertical than before.


Another thing you can do is add some negative camber to the front.  With the stock adjusters you can easilly get over 2 degrees negative.  I've tried that and it goes around freeway cloverleafs like it's on rails (believe it or not).  But it looks odd.  I'd suggest -1 degree (zero is stock).

My recomendation is an alignment with -1 degree of camber in front and the Helwig kit.  I'm confident it will make a night & day improvement in your H3.

I also lowered my car a good bit.  If you'd like to flatten out the rake of yours a bit, there are 2 ways to go about it.  The more common one on this forum is to jack up the front.  Simple to do,..but it should make the car handle a tiny bit worse than it does stock (raises ceter of gravity, raises the roll axis and changes it's angle, and messes with the suspension geometry).

A different approach would be to drop the rear a bit.  It's just a solid axle on leaf springs,..so lowering it does nothing to the suspension geometry except add an almost unmeasurable amount of caster from the front.  I have had mine at -2" for a long time and lately at -3".  Starts to look odd there though.  Most people on this forum wouldn't like it.  You might find that a 1" or 1'5" drop makes the car look really good and even improves the handling a touch.  You'll need a set of spring blocks (1" might be best if you want it to still look tall and manly,..but just a bit flatter).  and you'll need some new and longer "U" bolts.  Stock "U" bolts are 3 5/8" ID and 7.25" long.  So you'd add your desired drop to the 7.25" length.  (So with 1" lowering bnlocks you'd need 8.25" or longer "U" bolts).

Here is a link to 1" lowering blocks ($12.95 a pair) http://www.gcustoms.com/product_info/category_id/5/subcategory_id/139/subcategory2_id/4009/products_id/263/

And to "U" bpolts.  You can trim off the excess if you don't want anything sticking down. $12.50
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/u-bolt-58-x-3-58-x-10-p-215.html

So bottom line (bottom line #2)  The helwig kit,...1" rear drop,...and alignment with -1 degree front camber.  Helwig kit, lowering parts and alignment should run you a grand total of $355.00

< Message edited by duckstu -- 5/20/2008 6:14:18 PM >

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 7:34:45 AM   
RealJeep


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Let me get this straight...You're wanting to make a 4,700 pound truck shaped like a brick a sports car? 

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 7:40:23 AM   
duckstu

 

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No,..just handle safely.  It handles like a stuck pig in stock form,...always squealing the tires all over the place.

Just because it weighs 4,700 lbs doesn't mean it has to handle badly.  If I can do a few minor things to make it drive better,,......WHY NOT?


< Message edited by duckstu -- 12/13/2007 7:50:08 AM >

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 7:41:44 AM   
KS Trekker


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Post Deleted

< Message edited by KS Trekker -- 1/30/2008 4:59:56 PM >

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 8:01:07 AM   
D VADER



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quote:

ORIGINAL: RealJeep

Let me get this straight...You're wanting to make a 4,700 pound truck shaped like a brick a sports car? 


I don't think anyone suggested the H3 could corner like a Corvette but it can be improved on.
I think that's what the Duck is looking for.  I'm interested as well.

$264 sounds high.  Anyone found cheaper ones?



< Message edited by D VADER -- 12/13/2007 8:09:42 AM >


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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 8:19:07 AM   
D VADER



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How about this sway bar at $149.

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/7682.html

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 8:35:40 AM   
importkiller

 

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trying to make one of the most capable 4x4 on the planet handle more like a car is like Dating a Transvestite...she may look good when your out for dinner, but when you get home you still got dik.



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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 8:46:14 AM   
Desert Dan

 

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I think the H3 handles great!
But I'm comparing it to a TJ with a soft Anti-Rock Sway bar
The H3 feels very stable all the time and when pushed on mtn roads the full time 4x4 seems to pull the front end through the turn.Who cares if the tires squeal a bit.
 
 

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Desert Dan

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 9:12:03 AM   
D VADER



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On a tight turn the H3 drags it's door handles.  Not everyone buys an H3 to climb rocks.

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/13/2007 9:37:21 AM   
duckstu

 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: D VADER

On a tight turn the H3 drags it's door handles.  Not everyone buys an H3 to climb rocks.


Exactly.  Just because a car is 4wd doesn't mean it has to drive poorly.  Some 4wd vehicles drive very well on the street (which is where 99.5+ percent of all Hummer H3 miles are logged I'd bet).  Disconectable swaybar end links and stiff aftermarket swaybars are common in offroading.  A friend of mine was the manager at a 4x4 shop and that was one of the first things he would do to his Jeeps.  It allowed the vehicle to drive much better when on the road,..and by pulling out a couple of pins, also allow it to work much better off road.  There's no rock piles or muddy roads that I have to drive down to get to work from my house (I live in a city), so I haven't bought any disconectable endlinks.

I don't understand how making a vehicle work well is anything like dating a transvestite.  I should think making your vehicle work its' best for the type of driving you do would be more like dating a model,..and insisting it drive badly would be like settling for a fat chick.

< Message edited by duckstu -- 12/13/2007 9:40:43 AM >

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RE: Sway Bar - 12/14/2007 8:26:25 AM   
importkiller

 

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umm...disconnecting the sway bar on a jeep is huge for good articulation offroad...won't do much in an h3 though...the IFS kills any chance of that.  Some 4 wheel drive vehicles drive great on road...gimme a break!!! Sure, like a 4 wheel drive escalade, denali,and other POSER 4 wheel drives...again...you have a friggen hummer....trying to make it drive like a car on road is NOT WHAT IT WAS MADE FOR....from the head of GM/hummers mouth......the hummer line has been and always will be designed to lead the way in off road capability...... Why even buy one if all your going to do is change the trucks entire make-up to make it more like other pos fake 4x4's....JMO.

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