RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2

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RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2

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RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/19/2007 12:10:28 PM

Golden Shellback

Posts: 419
Joined: 2/4/2006
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quote:

ORIGINAL: hilljob26

just look at the brackets,there are 2 in the back and two in the middle. they are all welded.i make them right on the hummer,so it will work when you get it

Ok, I want one! But, I want to see some closed up pics (top front..etc.) The $200, is that already included the shipping cost and paint? I would like to paint mine, so I can match the rest of my accessories. Thanks.

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Post #: 16

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/19/2007 1:44:06 PM

hilljob26

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Joined: 9/2/2007
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sent pm

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Post #: 17

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/22/2007 7:03:56 PM

hilljob26

Posts: 2069
Joined: 9/2/2007
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bare with me everyone,as the holidays are now here,i am putting in 70 hrs a week at work,so my time in th egarage is slim,but i am filling all requesta as soon as i can,rescue and shellback,yours should be done this weekend,but no guarentees

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Post #: 18

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 7:18:11 AM

Golden Shellback

Posts: 419
Joined: 2/4/2006
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If it's not too late - here are my measurements...

[image]

[/image]

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Post #: 19

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 7:36:52 AM

Golden Shellback

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Joined: 2/4/2006
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Here's the RealWheels light bar. I can fit the H3 in an 8 ft. high garage door with the light bar and lights on there.

[image]

[/image]

< Message edited by Golden Shellback -- 11/24/2007 7:39:06 AM >

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Post #: 20

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 8:03:01 AM

Golden Shellback

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Joined: 2/4/2006
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Got anymore pics?

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Post #: 21

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 8:05:06 AM

KS Trekker

Posts: 219
Joined: 9/25/2007
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Golden Shellback

Here's the RealWheels light bar. I can fit the H3 in an 8 ft. high garage door with the light bar and lights on there.

My problem is my garage has some low duct work towards the front. I only have 9" of clearance in the front. I'm hoping to either use rectangular lights or the KC 5" round lights. From the light tab, these lights are only 5.8125" (call it 6" with the lamp cover). So I would need the same specs as Shellback. Hilljob26, when you get the chance, can you post up some pics from the roof level, specifically profile shots. In order to sell the wife, I need to make sure it's not over the sunroof.

< Message edited by KS Trekker -- 11/24/2007 8:07:22 AM >

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Post #: 22

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 8:37:53 AM

Golden Shellback

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The lower the better.

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Post #: 23

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 9:02:34 AM

Golden Shellback

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The other thing I don't like about the RealWheels light bar is the base is not straight up. It looks weird when look at it from the front, see pic.

[image]

[/image]

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Post #: 24

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/24/2007 9:23:20 AM

KS Trekker

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Joined: 9/25/2007
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Golden Shellback

The other thing I don't like about the RealWheels light bar is the base is not straight up. It looks weird when look at it from the front, see pic.

I couldn't agree more. I like the concept of getting the lights over the cab, where they need to be. You're my beta test case, Shellback, so be sure to post up some pics when Hilljob26's lightbar is installed.

Mike, have you thought up a name for your light bar? How about the RealLightBar? Since it's based of the RealWheels design (but greatly improved).

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Post #: 25

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/25/2007 8:23:52 AM

shortbus

Posts: 3602
Joined: 6/27/2005
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hey blow, i mean, HILLjob, can you weld aluminum? some low profile "ammo" boxes to go on the roof rack would be awesome, but steel is kinda heavy and rusts - and the smaller ATV boxes are outrageously priced. a nice 5" high box would be awesome to keep the muddy straps and shackles in.

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Post #: 26

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/25/2007 12:20:32 PM

hilljob26

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Joined: 9/2/2007
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i can weld aluminum,but i dont have the right wire or gas..

this light bar is no more then 2 1/2 inches off the top of the roof to the top of the bar.the front mounts are angled,but they have to follow the roof lines.only mine is welded to the bottom of the bar,not a hole like the other ones

you see how that bar bowes to the front in shellbacks last post,mine doesnt do that,thats just gay.i got rescues and shellbacks bars done friday,just awaiting for payment on one of them.then if someone else wants one.i will see what i can do,but you will have to give me some time due to holidays and long hours.sorry,no more pics right now,i thought my batteries were bad,but i think something else is wrong w/ my camera

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Post #: 27

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/25/2007 2:56:42 PM

NJTEX

Posts: 270
Joined: 3/26/2006
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I think you are on to the best light bar out there now. How does it attach in the front to the plastic roof trim bolts? Instead of having the mounts rest on the plastic trim, could you do longer bolts with standoffs so that the front bar mounts are tight to the structure of the roof instead of resting on the plastic trim? That could help control bounce.

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Post #: 28

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/25/2007 3:12:11 PM

hilljob26

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you could do that,but i can find a bolt that long,it take a 6mm thread,and you would have to drill a hole through the bar big enough to fit a socket,it rests pretty good,it does not have very much bounce at all,i think my light bar looks killer,that front mounts does need something defferent,i wonder if i made a tube and welded a threaded end and drilled and tapped the top,kinda like this,i would have to drill a hole in the light bar,weld a washer to the tube.kinda like this

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Post #: 29

RE: LIGHT BAR PART 2 - 11/25/2007 3:49:59 PM

NJTEX

Posts: 270
Joined: 3/26/2006
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quote:

ORIGINAL: hilljob26

you could do that,but i can find a bolt that long,it take a 6mm thread,and you would have to drill a hole through the bar big enough to fit a socket,it rests pretty good,it does not have very much bounce at all,i think my light bar looks killer,that front mounts does need something defferent,i wonder if i made a tube and welded a threaded end and drilled and tapped the top,kinda like this,i would have to drill a hole in the light bar,weld a washer to the tube.kinda like this

I see your point. A bolt that long would also cause other problems if one wanted to remove it later after several years outside. What about doing the tube in two parts? One part has the 6mm tread and sleeve with 1/4-20 internal treads at the top and the second part of the tube is welded inside of the light bar. Then use a longer 1/4-20 bolt to hold the light bar to the roof stand-off?

ABS plastic can't withstand cycling loads very well especially with temperature variation too. If you can fix the front of your bar with a secure metal to metal connection, you've got the best solution.

< Message edited by NJTEX -- 11/25/2007 3:56:55 PM >

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Post #: 30