Nascar 17,
Do you have any photos after lifting your front 2"?
Joe

 

well, I'm not nascar but that thread was back in april and I'm not even sure he still posts here...so here ya go, this is after a 2" raise by turning the t-bars.

 

That looks awesome! Thinking of doing it to my H2, but keep hearing negative crap about it. How do you like your ride, etc. Any problems?

 

there is no negative. If you go nuts on the amount of turns then you may have a harsher ride, other than that nothing else negative. You can even get your local dealer to do it so obviously GM meant them to be turned I have had other trucks with them cranked for many many years and never had anything fail prematurely. Do a search under my name and tortion bar as the subject, I posted an article from a t-bar manufacturer that covered the entire thing in depth, good read if you can find it.

 

I have a question on turning the torsion bars? Why don't they come from the factory turned up?

I know that a torsion bar adjustment is meant to be adjusted when the front end starts to sag after a few years of use and that is why there is adjustment. To adjust more than normal Factory specs to me is asking for problems later. Just my .02.

 

Remember its a truck. When you tow or haul something the rear comes down. Now you have a level ride.

 

I don't tow or haul anything with my H2. I have a 1 ton dually for that! That's why I want it to sit level all the time.

 

I'm in your camp regarding this. There is too much "torsion" that is being applied to the bars when they are all cranked up. For me, the Truxxx (or similar) was the only option. Ride, handling, etc all remain exactly like factory set up....but now I'm level.

 

There are alot of options as to why you would normally need to adj the tortion, which is why gm sets them low to allow for room as individual situations dictate. For one, if you have a push bar and a big azz winch up front, more than likely your front end is going to dip lower than a stock base model with no hardware hanging off the front end, so you will have to adj. up in order to compansate. Actually the re-adjusted keys change the stock geometry by lowering the position of the bar, wher as cranking them retain the stock location. Basically turning the t-bar is like putting a bigger rubber spacer in a solid axle spring to achieve lift. Remember guys, the t-bar is nothing more than a spring tube (lack of a better term) if you stay under 6 cranks or so you will not make the ride any harsher at all and if you go 6 cranks plus then you'll need to replace the bumpstops with a ultra thin model to allow more flex. You could also change the stock t-bars for ones that are stiffer and achieve lift that way as well....just cause your changing GM's stock setting means nothing in regards to running into trouble later...if adjusting them was a bad thing dealerships wouldn't do it and GM would of designed it with no adj in them.

 

Again, they are made to adjust (and the reason GM makes them to adjust) is when they sag. I have a pushbar on mine and it sits as high as one without. The front end, if adjusting the torsion bars, needs a longer set of shocks (due to the longer travel it will have), but if only adjusted when the front end needs it, doesn't need longer shocks because you are only adjusting to stock again. I wouldn't do it even if the dealer adjusts them. I would much rather buy the Truxx kit and gain the level as the kit was designed. Not trying to sway anyone here, just stating what I would do. If you have done it, hope it works out for you without any problems down the road. meaning premature wear of the front end.