rear door lock dead
#1
rear door lock dead
06 hummer h3.
rear door will not open, when pushing unlock, no noise from the rear door as if it is unlocking. I have the rear panel off and have found the part for the lock online to replace it. One problem, I can't open the door to replace the part. Is there anyway to unlock the rear door manually?
rear door will not open, when pushing unlock, no noise from the rear door as if it is unlocking. I have the rear panel off and have found the part for the lock online to replace it. One problem, I can't open the door to replace the part. Is there anyway to unlock the rear door manually?
#2
oh no!!!
u better check the driver door module,fuses,and PRAY.
I brought up this major potential problem a few times and got no response.
i tried one day with the door open. locking and unlocking with the remote and found no way to open it!.
the book says nothing. i guess gm expected the motor to last forever.
i may well be the front module. if not,get the torch!!
i remember there was a rod that moved up when you pulled the handle. it moved the same way when locked/unlocked
so it must get engaged/connected in the unlock mode. couldnt find anything by "feel", and you cant see either. its a real problem
I brought up this major potential problem a few times and got no response.
i tried one day with the door open. locking and unlocking with the remote and found no way to open it!.
the book says nothing. i guess gm expected the motor to last forever.
i may well be the front module. if not,get the torch!!
i remember there was a rod that moved up when you pulled the handle. it moved the same way when locked/unlocked
so it must get engaged/connected in the unlock mode. couldnt find anything by "feel", and you cant see either. its a real problem
Last edited by drtom; 02-18-2012 at 05:41 PM.
#3
??????? Maybe
06 hummer h3.
rear door will not open, when pushing unlock, no noise from the rear door as if it is unlocking. I have the rear panel off and have found the part for the lock online to replace it. One problem, I can't open the door to replace the part. Is there anyway to unlock the rear door manually?
rear door will not open, when pushing unlock, no noise from the rear door as if it is unlocking. I have the rear panel off and have found the part for the lock online to replace it. One problem, I can't open the door to replace the part. Is there anyway to unlock the rear door manually?
#5
yes it is a pain. It is like any other locked door you definitely have to go thru the inside panel. I have not run into this issue with mine but with a 98 s10 chevy blazer and I had to take apart the rear door panel and part of the inside in the rear because the locking mechanism bars broke. I guess it wouldn't make sense unless you've done it before.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#6
caution
if you try anything inside the door and it gets worse or it doesnt open ,you are screwed.ive tried it with the door open,clicking the remote and feeling inside. NOTHING CANBE FELT that changes. its not like an ole econ van where you grabbed a rod and lifted it..nothing moves.when you pull the handle a rod lifts up in lock or unlock but it does nothing until its unlocked. the action is inside a box at the latch. it may need to be broken open or dismantled,if you could see it.
if u me4ss up,,,u own a 4 door!!
if u me4ss up,,,u own a 4 door!!
#7
The latch used is called the "Mini Wedge Door Latch" We developed that latch here at Delphi. It uses what we called an 'E' Lock, which was an electrically operated version of the linkage operated latches used in the passenger doors. There's a motor driven rack and pinion gear, driving an arm that releases the fork bolt. I don't know if you can see the latch when you remove the trim panel, but the 'E' Lock mechanism is a black plastic housing on the top, rear of the latch. There's a white, plastic shaft coming out of it. If you can grab that shaft with your fingers or needle nose pliers and push 'up', it releases the latch. Have someone push in (closing) the swing gate to release the tension on the latching mechanism while you try to push up on the shaft. I worked with all the engineers that were on that project, but I wasn't directly involved. I'm trying to hook up with one of the guys to see if I can get a picture, or exploded view drawing to post. Don't know how soon, but I will let you know when I do. Stay tuned.
#8
lookin out my back door
well,in actually! like ive been saying,theres nothing that moves but the top rod. when you pull the handle,locked or unlocked ,it goes down into the black box.
SOMETHING inside the black box allows the rod to unlatch the door,WHEN it is in the unlock mode, NOTHING ELSE MOVES, as i have been reporting for months,as i expressed my concern for this obvious big problem
the wires go in the bottom of the white thing., prob the unlock motor,actuator.
btw this was ez to pix,STANDING OUTSIDE WITH DOOR OPEN!!, not fun for a fat guy when closed,(me)
SOMETHING inside the black box allows the rod to unlatch the door,WHEN it is in the unlock mode, NOTHING ELSE MOVES, as i have been reporting for months,as i expressed my concern for this obvious big problem
the wires go in the bottom of the white thing., prob the unlock motor,actuator.
btw this was ez to pix,STANDING OUTSIDE WITH DOOR OPEN!!, not fun for a fat guy when closed,(me)
Last edited by drtom; 02-20-2012 at 11:58 AM.
#9
Thanks for the pic tom. My bad.....that's not our Mini-Wedge. I showed the pic to our door latch engineer and he said to unplug the harness going into the locking mechanism and check with a meter for 12v when the unlock button is pushed. If no power, jump 12v to the terminal that the harness plugged into, and see if that actuates the unlock. He suggests NOT to tap into the wires themselves, so you don't 'back-feed' voltage into the system. If that doesn't work, he said if you can pry off the black cover (try and stick a small mirror in there to see if it is snaps or screws holding it on, but he thinks it's probably snaps), that you see the release rod going into, you should be able to access the unlock lever, and manually trip it.
#10
hey,im not messing any further!!.dont want locked out. this is a up and coming nightmare gm should look into.
i posted this last yr as a warning on up coming trouble. now it happened to ONE guy.
i can say this, if it were me id start the tear out process till i got it open, then figure how to do a legit fix. like a cable release from a 1949 ford hood latch!
while snooping here i pulled all covers to get a better look and attack the silly high light expense prob. ill soon show a 5 buck incandesant redo
i posted this last yr as a warning on up coming trouble. now it happened to ONE guy.
i can say this, if it were me id start the tear out process till i got it open, then figure how to do a legit fix. like a cable release from a 1949 ford hood latch!
while snooping here i pulled all covers to get a better look and attack the silly high light expense prob. ill soon show a 5 buck incandesant redo
Last edited by drtom; 02-20-2012 at 01:02 PM.