I'm not sure what the draw was; the dealer didn't tell me a number. They did spend some time tracking it down, and so far so good on the fix.

 

GM should really be responsible for these issues. If so many people get them, it's obviously a known issue.

My car started doing this last night. I've been installing a new stereo and playing with the setup with the car off, so it's obviously a low voltage situation, however, now I can get it to fix itself.

I've pulled the terminals off and touched then, waited 5, 10, 30+ minutes between to reconnect. I'm getting a system reset as my "low tire" alert icon is gone, but still now power locks and no driver side window.

I've swapped relays, replaced fuses, done a few rain dances. Nothing.

I've done everything but drive around. Hoping that might help. I was getting a "serv 4wd" for a bit until i reset and drove around. Maybe when my "low tire" warning comes back so will my window and licks.

Mucho aggravating.

 

Follow-up..

I tried all the tricks..

Touch the pos and neg.
Remove #8 and #68..
Reset the unlock choice.
Took the unit out of the door and cleaned connections..

Finally, I tried one last thing..

I'm simply disconnected the pos and left the neg connected. Left it like this for ~30min.

Plugged it back up. Started the car and waited for the lights to stop flashing, closed me eyes and pushed the window switch. Worked.

Pushed the lock switch.. Worked!

It's fixed. For now..

 

If the Driver's window (only) won't work and the power door locks don't work your H3 needs a reboot! Unplug the negative battery cable for 30 minutes and then replace. This occurs mostly when you let the battery run down. BTW we trimmed off a little bit of the plastic around underside of the battery terminal connectors to make them fit better. This has helped a lot. Thanks to those who posted the solution for me - I was freaking out until I read the posts and it worked for me! I have also had the engine turning/no start issue where I had to follow the 30 minute reprogramming of the chip in the ignition key to recognize the security system (it disconnects the fuel). These forums have saved me twice!!

 

I've got the same symptoms as everyone else in this thread. I've read and done everything suggested in this thread to cure the problem. I replaced the battery (it was 6 years old anyway and failed on the battery tester and it wouldn't start after an overnight charge either so that was due - don't know if its tied in to this door lock/d-window switch problem), I also touched the battery wires together, checked fuses 8 and 68 (they were all good), and I also switched #77 PCM Control w/the one above it. Still no luck.

Should I just give up and take it to the dealer? I would like to not have to cave in to 'the man' and pay megabucks to get this fixed, but this is the vehicle my wife hauls the kids back/forth to pre-school in so its a major inconvenience for her to be dealing with two kids under the age of 5 and manually setting the door locks. Admittedly, I'm a Ford guy - but we love our H3 - and I spend a lot of time wrenching on mustang drag cars so I do know thing or two about cars (well, mustangs) so if anyone has 'the absolute answer' to this problem I'm not afraid to dive in and try to fix it myself since the warrantee has been long gone for awhile now. It doesn't sound like there has been one 'cure all' for this odd-ball, but sort of common problem. This thread is pretty old, so I'm hoping someone out there has definitively solved this sucker in the mean time and would post up!

Thanks guys/girls!!

 

Just got back from the what used to be the biggest Hummer dealer in the mid west (Lynch Hummer) and I pulled up and introduced my self and the Hummer service tech swapped the old one out and plugged the new one in and it was a miracle but everything was working. (no charge on the labor) Decided since I drove 100 miles to get to them that I would have them change my fluids, trans, rear and front diff. They went over a few other things with me and answered all my questions. The service tech had 10 years experience with all the Hummers. A nice group of people. Even got a great deal on a chrome brush guard that someone never picked up. This made the trip well worth the gas. Sometimes when you have tried all the tricks of touching this and that or pulling this or that , that maybe the switch panel itself is bad and it was. Nice to be able to lock the rear door and all the other doors with the fob. Thanks for every ones help on this subject. I could have put the switch in myself but chose to go to the dealer in case it was something else and I was lucky that it was just a bad door switch panel. It feels good when everything is working on your Hummer the way it should work. Thanks again!!!

 

By the way a new switch panel is around 200.00. Check the internet for best price but from what I saw, the price did not go below 200.00. There are two clip on the narrow sides of the panel. Lift up on either end a little at a time and the panel will come right out. Unscrew the panel and put the new switch unit in and replace.

 

i wish you hed asked them what they would do if the rear door lock assm failed and the hatch would NOT OPEN. now thats a problem yet to come. it will

 

Yeah same thing.. driver window power locks went out after disconnecting the pos terminal to take the CD player out.
Ive tried all the tricks a billion times and nothing..
Im trying the whole leave the battery undone for 30 mins and ima see how that works.
my question is has anyone found a way to fix this problem? It seems like everytime I remove the battery this happens..

 

i have never had any trouble when unhooking the batt.
my lights went crazy when the batt was drained,then they came back on their own.
i never did anything.