Power Locks and Driver Side Window not working
#191
I've got a hole-saw in the tool box just waiting for this to come around on my truck. (written tongue-in-cheek, but not really)
#192
yeah, my air chisel will do a neat job!
then ill add a padlock!
then ill add a padlock!
#193
Totally 150% agree w/Jruta
Removing the master switch and waiting a few maybe even going inside for breakfast, lunch or dinner or even for the night then reconnecting it the next morning will always do the trick. It definitely does have to do with a voltage drop either because of a weak battery, a bad connection w/battery terminal or anything for that reason but doing as we have mentioned will always remedy the problem. Everything other than this will only be a waste of time. Been there and done it.
#194
Removing the master switch and waiting a few maybe even going inside for breakfast, lunch or dinner or even for the night then reconnecting it the next morning will always do the trick. It definitely does have to do with a voltage drop either because of a weak battery, a bad connection w/battery terminal or anything for that reason but doing as we have mentioned will always remedy the problem. Everything other than this will only be a waste of time. Been there and done it.
#195
Hi guys,
Had this problem today. The solution was kind of weird, and this is certainly a more common problem than I thought.
Here is a video of the issue that I made to hopefully help some people out. I don't know if this is how all GMs work...but it certainly happens to a lot of hummers!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uekl...ature=youtu.be
Hope this helps someone!
K
Had this problem today. The solution was kind of weird, and this is certainly a more common problem than I thought.
Here is a video of the issue that I made to hopefully help some people out. I don't know if this is how all GMs work...but it certainly happens to a lot of hummers!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uekl...ature=youtu.be
Hope this helps someone!
K
#196
What you fixed was not the same problem this thread was started for (loss of correct voltage to the vehicle from the battery causing circuit glitch). Same end result symptom, yes, same cause, no.
However, still excellent information to have and will no doubt help others.
Thank you for posting. KUDOS!
However, still excellent information to have and will no doubt help others.
Thank you for posting. KUDOS!
#197
What you fixed was not the same problem this thread was started for (loss of correct voltage to the vehicle from the battery causing circuit glitch). Same end result symptom, yes, same cause, no.
However, still excellent information to have and will no doubt help others.
Thank you for posting. KUDOS!
However, still excellent information to have and will no doubt help others.
Thank you for posting. KUDOS!
I did run the battery dead and had to boost it that day (cleaning car and was playing music)
So it could have been caused by the same thing, but just reseating the rubber somehow worked for me
#198
Removing the master switch and waiting a few maybe even going inside for breakfast, lunch or dinner or even for the night then reconnecting it the next morning will always do the trick. It definitely does have to do with a voltage drop either because of a weak battery, a bad connection w/battery terminal or anything for that reason but doing as we have mentioned will always remedy the problem. Everything other than this will only be a waste of time. Been there and done it.
#199
Sorry, but the ONLY remedy is popping the drivers-side door master switch out then replacing it once the capacitors have discharged. It's the ONLY thing that has ever worked for me.
New battery? Old battery? Replacing battery terminals? Touching positive and negative terminals together? Indian rain dance? Voodoo? New engine? Old engine? Jump start? Pulling fuses numbers 0 through 100? Replacing the switch? ALL NONSENSE! Getting my point?
Unfortunately there has NEVER EVER been a clear, concise Answer to this electrical nightmare until this. Best part? It costs ZERO.
Thanks to this forum I saved myself HUNDREDS.
Remove the switch (butterknife- see other posts) and let the capacitors discharge. You can speed up the process but touching every switch terminal together if you can, if not, just let it sit for an hour or two.
Re-install switch = FIXED!
New battery? Old battery? Replacing battery terminals? Touching positive and negative terminals together? Indian rain dance? Voodoo? New engine? Old engine? Jump start? Pulling fuses numbers 0 through 100? Replacing the switch? ALL NONSENSE! Getting my point?
Unfortunately there has NEVER EVER been a clear, concise Answer to this electrical nightmare until this. Best part? It costs ZERO.
Thanks to this forum I saved myself HUNDREDS.
Remove the switch (butterknife- see other posts) and let the capacitors discharge. You can speed up the process but touching every switch terminal together if you can, if not, just let it sit for an hour or two.
Re-install switch = FIXED!
Popped the drivers door switches out carefully using a putty knife. Took apart the circuit board. Took me all of 3min to take it apart using toothpicks to separate the 6 hooks on each side of the switch housing. Touched a screwdriver to the capacitors **** on the underside of the board. (1/8" round about 1/2" long). Reassembled the switch, reconnected the wire clips, turned on the car and WALLA! The drivers door now works and the power locks function normally even with the remote key fob.
Thanks for the tips!
#200
kHummer, what did you use to rejuvenate the rubber pad?