Reading this thread gives me a headache ... H3s are known to be problematic. I'm having all sorts of little problems with mine, not sure why ... Previous owner care for it well and so have I ... only 75k miles. I'm about at the end of my rope dealing with it not to mention all the cash I've shelled out since buying her.

 

DOC_OLDS... A big thanks to you. Guess I should have listened to you earlier. Well I tried everything except taking the door panel off. I did cycle the engine like you said. I started it ran for 10 minutes turned it off for 5. Ran it again for 10 minutes turned it off. Did this 4 times and Bam. The locks worked and so does the window. Unreal. It is still working today so perhaps this fixed it. Many thanks to all of you and insight regarding the H 3's

 

Hi guys new to here and have stummbeled on to this thread, mine is an issue with a blower which is not fixable with the resistor change . But any way, try this

On the driver side door panel pop out the electric windows control ( where you have the lock/unlock, window switch etc) you can do this by taking a trim removal or hard plastic tool to prop up the section. Un plug the blue and white plugs from underneath the control unit(quite easy to do) once you have taken this apart use a hair dryer to heat the back of the unit until you hear a loud click, this will reset the relays. Try that and see if it works. It did for me,

Mine happened when my local garage (whi had never worked on a hummer before put the car on the ramp with out opening the boot and ended up putting the car in recovery mode. This then makes the car think it's being towed and not to accidentally lck the keys in the car it will prevent the central locking from working. Also in some cases your driver side power window will also not wrk. Try this and hopefully it will sort it. Good luck
Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message

 

Hi All I just wanted to thank this forum for all the helpful advice. Two years ago this issue happened to me (no remote, no drivers door locks, driver window etc.) At that time my daughter borrowed the truck, slammed the door and problem solved. Now it happened again 2 weeks ago. From this forum I saw info about the master switch. Used a screw driver at the top and bottom to release the spring clips, removed the connectors and brought it inside my house. Used the hair dryer on it for about 15 minutes, left it in the house another hour and the put the connectors back on. Amazing -- everything worked. Snapped the switch back in and it has been fine since. It is very frustrating when it occurs. This forum helped so much I book marked it. Thanks all.

 

I recently just got into the Hummer game. I love my new "used" Hummer. I had an issue similar to whats described here. The driver's side power door locks would not open or close with the remote key fob. I tried replacing fuses as suggested. That fixed the driver's side rear door. I gave up, then I stumbled across a thread on programming new key fobs. I reprogrammed an old GM key fob along with the one that came with the car. Surprise, ALL power door locks now work with the remote key fob. This forum is great. Thanks.

 

re door lock issue. problem has happened a few times lately one reason being the severe cold weather here. The trigger is also the battery is quite low and also I believe is moisture condensation around the switch. I disconnect the battery terminals and clean the off and wait twenty minutes and reconnect the terminals. This gives the computer a chance to reset and when that doesn't work I get the hair dryer out and blast the switch and surrounding area. This fixes the problem till the next time lol.

 

Being in Michigan where we have had record lows -20 average daily, my locks did it a few times. I went and bought a new battery. I have not had the problem since, it has been a few weeks now. I also changed the terminals since the factory ones are junk. I will keep everyone posted

 

Sorry, but the ONLY remedy is popping the drivers-side door master switch out then replacing it once the capacitors have discharged. It's the ONLY thing that has ever worked for me.

New battery? Old battery? Replacing battery terminals? Touching positive and negative terminals together? Indian rain dance? Voodoo? New engine? Old engine? Jump start? Pulling fuses numbers 0 through 100? Replacing the switch? ALL NONSENSE! Getting my point?

Unfortunately there has NEVER EVER been a clear, concise Answer to this electrical nightmare until this. Best part? It costs ZERO.

Thanks to this forum I saved myself HUNDREDS.

Remove the switch (butterknife- see other posts) and let the capacitors discharge. You can speed up the process but touching every switch terminal together if you can, if not, just let it sit for an hour or two.

Re-install switch = FIXED!

 

I've been doing the same thing for a while now also. I even put up a post explaining it. Most people just don't get it. Neither do the actual mechanics that are suppose to know. Just do exactly what this post says and you will never try anything else again. I usually bring it in for the night but of course everyone's situation is different.

wz

 

Yep! It can take a while sometimes, but it is in FACT the only "fix". Annoying but zero cost. Isn't it good to have a working window again? Lol.