Ok I used a left handed drill bit and it pulled the broke bolt right out. I had the head rebuilt at a local shop for $240. I am getting ready to install the head tonight. While reading thru the install steps it says things like.

Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Use the J 45059 to rotate the cylinder head bolts in sequence an additional 155 degrees.

Do I just turn the bolt 155 degrees after I reach the required torque.

 

Yes its a torque to yield bolt. Needs to be accurate though. Also all head bolts need to be replaced, torque to yield bolts are a one time use as they stretch while being torqued and wont have the same clamp load if re-used.

 

!!,,,i am surprised and delighted to hear yoiu got it out!!!wow,
years ago i got a "deal" on left drills. now i know another use!

i wonder how/who dreamed up the torque spec on these bolts??

 

Yes fantastic you were able to get it out.

 

Ok I have the engine almost completely back together. However my front crankshaft seal is leaking. I replaced it with a new one and it is still leaking. Any ideas what to do or try?

Oh a side note the engine seems to run fine now. Firing on all cylinders.

 

Sweet!
Side bar... my tj had a similar problem where I was unable to seal the elbow for coolant sytem. I finally went dealership and received a oem gasket and new elbow.
It then sealed perfectly. Hours of life spent on that and many gaskets later. Lol.

Make sure to use an oem exact. Seems to have solved my issue.

 

I believe I may have somehow gotten. The timing off by a tooth. I went with the notch on the top of the crankshaft at tdc. And from there lined up the cams. I turned the engine by hand several times and felt no binding or tough spots. And then made sure that the mark on the crankshaft was straight up and the flats on the cams were good. (The dark Marks on the chains only line up about every 7th complete Revolution)

After finishing up everything and starting the engine to see how it ran it would start at ~3k rpm and the drop to idle however it has a surging idle. And will not run correctly.

I decided to take the vavle cover off and look at it. Upon taking off the intake manifold I noticed that I had pinched the wireing harness for the fuel injectors between the block and the manifold. I continued to remove the vavle cover and placed a screw driver in cylinder #1 and had my wife tell me when it stopped moving up.

It now appears that the timing is off by about one tooth. When the screwdriver stops coming up the flats are slightly to the right of flat. (Leaning towards the battery box)

Should I pull it all back apart and double check everything or could the intake manifold leak cause it to run like that and I'm just not getting true TDC (maybe it has just started it's downward stroke)

If the timing is off have I just ruined my head? Do I need to take the front cover back off to double check everything or can I just go off of the screwdriver thing?

 

Ok I have it all back together and it seems to be running right now. Though it still has a little hesitation which might just be cause I need new plugs I need to hook it to a scanner and see if any new codes are showing. It has had p0315 for a long time ever since I hooked an unprogramed BCM to it trying to figure out my ac issue that I posted about in a different thread.

But what I did was triple check with the screwdriver tdc and cam alinment and I believe that it is correct. I taped the fuel rail wires up out of the way and put it back together. Everything lined up perfectly and I got everything put back together correctly.

If the timing was slightly retarded would it cause hesitation or would it just screw up my cylinder head? Any ideas why it is hesitating?

 

If your timing marks are out just a tooth or two you didn't hurt the head. The I5 will be even more lazy if one, or both, of the cams are out. Double check with a compression check. To address the hesitation issue. Check again for codes. Recheck your work. Vacuum leaks cause a hesitation. Is the MAF dirty? Make sure everything is plugged into the correct terminals.

 

I wound up having the timing off by one tooth. I re did it and got it running correctly now. Thanks for the information.

Now however I have a vacuum at the oil fill cap and the idle changes when I remove and replace the cap. I double checked the two lines we have instead of a pcv. And they were clean and all connected