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  #1  
Old 12-31-2011, 12:30 PM
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Default Left front axle seal

My 06 H3 is starting to develop a leak from the left front axle seal. Has anyone replaced one themselves? Is it a very technical fix, or should a mechanic do it?
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:43 PM
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Just depends on your mechanical ability. Are you comfortable tearing the front suspension apart on one side?
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:20 PM
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the manuals pretty much give step by step instructions
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:05 PM
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I am fairly mechanical. I installed the suspension lift on my Wrangler with no help or prior knowledge. Is there anything special that I need to know before tearing into it? I am good at tearing apart and can mostly put things back the way I find them.
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:35 PM
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Go for it! I did mine, a couple times actually... The keep tearing from the angles and lost of wheelin... You'll need a 35mm socket for the wheel nut, a replacement boot obviously, grease and cv boot clamp... If its just the outside boot it's not that bad...
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:55 PM
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Default a leak from the left front axle seal.

my earlier suggestion of reading thru the procedure in the book i think is in order. its a lot of disassembly,IF its the axel seal as you say.
pull the half shaft right? doing the seal itself is not as much of a job as getting to it!
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:27 PM
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Thanks to CBphoto for this great write-up! Follow the instructions here, replace the seal and then backwards!
If you need pix, PM me your email address and I'll forward the Word Document so you can have the pix and description. I keep a laminated copy in our rigs so we can do trail repairs and still have directions that don't get wet and sloppy!





Tools required- high-lift or floor jack, small bottle jack, 36mm socket, 1 1/16" socket or wrench, 13/16" socket or wrench, 10mm wrench, 18mm socket or wrench, pry bar, large flathead screwdriver. After loosening the axle nut, jack up just a little with floor jack or high-lift, then use the bottle jack to raise lower control arm for removal of wheel and/or seating the lower balljoint.


"I think I covered it all here, not hard to do at all. To begin with, you want to just barely jack the truck up from the center frame in front, then use a small bottle jack under the lower A-arm to raise it slightly when you need the extra hand!


First, loosen the Axle nut while the wheel is on the ground (36mm) this is probably the only tool you'll need to add to your kit. Then raise vehicle, and remove wheel & tire.

Then remove the Tie-Rod nut (13/16")


Apply hammer to tie-rod, it'll pop right out.


Next remove upper ball-joint retaining bolt & nut (both 18mm)


I said REMOVE, not loosen...there's a retaining notch in the ball joint to keep it in.[/QUOTE]


Now remove lower Ball-Joint nut (1 1/16" socket)


And hammer out the lower ball-joint (with nut on to save the threads)


Hammer a screwdriver carefully into the notch at rear of upper ball-joint to help spread the gap.


Hammer the steering knuckle off of the ball joint (note piece of 2x4 wood to help keep upper a-arm from moving)

Upper ball-joint is now removed, notice notch to keep it on the bolt.
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Last edited by TAINTER; 01-06-2012 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:29 PM
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Now lightly tap on end of halfshaft to get it out of the wheel splines.


Completely dissassembled...use something to tie the steering knuckle to the upper a-arm so you don't stress the brakeline & ABS line.


Halfshaft is removed from diff with a light prying, it's only held in by a small c-clip on shaft.

If you need to replace the seal, pry out with a screwdriver...being careful not to harm the bearing right behind it! Simply hammer in a new one, very easy.

Assembly is backwards, here's a few tricks...

1. Insert new half-shaft into diff firmly, should click into place with c-ring

2. Put knuckle on lower ball-joint first, then slip axle into wheel splines, then lift up onto upper ball-joint, then install the nut on lower ball-joint to hold all together....may require a helper.

3. You'll need to lift up lower A-arm with bottle jack to seat the balljoint well, otherwise it'll rotate when you tighten the nut.

4. To keep Tie-Rod ball from spinning while tightening nut, it is shaped to apply a 10mm wrench at the bottom while tightening nut with a 13/16"


Apply 10mm & 13/16" to tighten tie-rod balljoint.

There, all done. Had a little trouble getting my lower balljoints off, but my truck's almost 4 yrs old...otherwise, the seal is a tough one to get out, but it pops right out when you get the right angle on it.
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Last edited by TAINTER; 01-06-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:29 PM
 
 
 
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2007, axle, boot, cost, cv, differential, diffrenticial, front, h3, hummer, lifted, repair, replace, replacment, seal


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